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Fielding

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About Fielding

  • Rank
    Newbie

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    St. Louis
  • Interests
    Stoneware, Porcelain, Handbuilding, Throwing. I wish I were better at GLAZING!!
  1. No Score Slip

    mix vinegar into the slip, as it will work to keep particles suspended
  2. Have you thought of using a blast of compressed air to release the clay body? I have a recurring interest in making large concave dishes about 24"-30" in diameter. To that end, I have collected a number of satellite dishes with the intention of making a plaster reverse for a hump mold. The advantage of the hump mold is that it would allow me to throw a foot ring in the process, so that the piece could be placed on a table or hung on a wall. Naturally, there is a cracking problem if the piece is left on the hump too long. I spoke with a potter at a show who had successfully done this, and I wish I could re-call his name so as not to plaguarize. He said that he had a compressor and used an air nozzle to shoot air between the mold and the clay body. He said the air released the piece quite easily. Those air nozzles I believe limit the PSI to about 30 pounds. Let me know if you can try that--I am all about being a copy cat. As far as warping, the clay memory is a problem for me too. I have been told that very slow controlled drying would help. Thus if you made a corresponding slump mold as a drying tool, you could line it with paper and then wrap the thing for a long nap. Another problem is that my studio fires to cone 10, which is awful hot for a flat piece, so some warpage may not be avoidable. When I throw dishes, I use a large plywood bat 3/4" thick that I varnished. I thought the rigidity of that plywood is better than using a plastic bat which is prone to flex. I think that does work better. Let me know what you think. Fielding
  3. Thanks Celia. The slow start is my entire concern, and the manual method demands a bit of attention, particularly in the beginning. I have an Olympic model 1414 manual kiln, but I just want something a tad bigger. ( I suppose it's like folks always wanting a boat just 2 feet longer than the one they have). The cost of replacing the controller board is giving me pause. I envision a day where a kiln will come with modular relays and a USB plug, and the entire operation will be precisely programmed from a laptop--perhaps not. By the way, my sister lives in Oxfordshire, and she has become enamored of the work of Rowena Brown and her Raku houses. My sister says that I mis-pronounce "Raku". Of course, as you know, I also misspell labor, color and enamored.
  4. The steepness of the ramp is exactly what concerns me so much. I called Evenheat, and they were very pleasant. The customer service person emailed a PDF manual of the kiln and the controller. She also informed me that a RAMPMASTER II would interface with the Perfect Fire controller board if the old board did not work. Cost for the upgrade: about $400. I found a website for a company which will actually repair bad circuit boards which are not actually fried. All that being said, I am reconsidering. I think an old-school manual kiln may be the better way to go for firing to bisque. My local pottery supply store owner told me that it is cheaper to replace the electronic relays, rather than the mechanical ones on older kilns. I think the difference is only a few dollars. Considering the complications of programming an electronic controller and the cost to replace one, I think the kiln-setter option may be a more practical solution. Any thoughts on that? Oh, and by the way, thanks for all the input.
  5. Thanks, I will give them a call. I stayed away from a Paragon Kiln with a DTC-100 controller because I thought it ramped too high too quickly. Fielding
  6. I am considering the purchase of a used evenheat PF 1822 kiln, which I will primarily use to bisque fire stoneware work. This kiln uses a perfect fire controller (I think it is a DTP-56DC-E Controller by Canadian Instrumentation). The controller manual is not available to me. Does anyone know if this can be programmed to safely ramp up the temp so I can drive out the water without breakage. Does anyone know if a PDF doc of the manual or program guide is available? Here is a photo of the kiln with someone holding the cord as the plug was cannibalized for some other use. If I can bisque fire with this, I am willing to take the risk on this if the price is right. I am also including another controller photo I found on the forum, which I think is identical. Thanks. Fielding
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