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hershey8

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About hershey8

  • Rank
    John Autry

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Mineral Bluff, Ga
  • Interests
    uh, oh yeah....pottery. Gardening, guitar pickin' and wood working are among my interests. Hershey was my chocolate lab; he vanished in Feb 16. He's still in the photo and in my heart.

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  1. Thank you Min, I may be over thinking this. But n the future I will begin saving my scrap a differently, not tossing throwing water or fines. I will save it all in a bucket. Today, I'll start pugging the old with the new. I'm sure that will work. Thank you for your help. ja
  2. So , ideally, I should let all scrap clay dry out completely, pulverize to some degree, (working on a machine for that), add water and maybe some slop/slip of the same clay body with some vinegar. Mix , slake and pug.Let set for a couple of weeks and see how it works? Am I missing anything? Should I make some slip from new clay and add that? If the clay scraps are really small and very dry, how long does it really need to slake? ja
  3. I've been throwing flopped pot pieces and trimmings into a big container and misting. Did not slake. Maybe that's the problem.
  4. I recently pugged some bits of clay from my slop bucket. The pug comes out reasonably soft and moist, but kind of cracky. It is all the same type of clay, well 99% anyway. Whassup with dat? j
  5. Sometimes, when the humidity is high for several days, I would like to help the clay-drying process along. I don't mean to the point of bone-dry, only leather hard. Are any of you speed-drying any of your pots/mugs or their components (lids, handles). If so, how are you doing it , and how fast are you doing it? I'm pretty sure that too much, too fast , would cause warping and/or cracking. Toying with the idea of making a small heat tunnel for handles and lids. Put some lids and handles in, 15-30 minutes later, stiff enough to trim or attach. I don't know if this is realistic, but if it would work, I'd be on it in a light-second. It's not that I'm in that much of a hurry. It's that if I have to wait for between 2 hours and "overnight", for pieces to get leather hard,"just right", I'll find myself immersed in some other project, and I'll blow my window of opportunity. Good time management habits were left out of my tool pouch. Distractions were not.
  6. I have a friend, just down the road, who has a CNC router. I just found out today that he is willing to cut several dies for my extruder. Can't wait! j
  7. I've been wondering about the strength of extruded handles, as opposed to those that are pulled or cut from a slab. I built a 4"x4" extruder a couple of years ago, and I'm finally getting around to cutting some dies from some old plastic I have laying around. The reason for my progress is that I suck at pulling handles. Also, I like the profiles I can create by making my own dies. I'm thinking that extruding the clay also compresses it, and if the clay is well wedged and bubble-free, the extrusions should be strong enough for a mug handle; I mean we're talking about supporting a small vessel of coffee, or hopefully, BEER, not a VW micro bus. A cool thing about extruding is: even if you prefer to "pull" a handle, you can start off with an extruded coil of any diameter, instead of having to make your starting coil by rolling out piece. That whole rolling out thing has always looked like a way to get creases and lines and other weak places in the handle, to me. The extruder has become my parade. Rain welcome, along with other comments. ja
  8. Making  some extruder dies for mug handles. The dies and the handles are  quite the journey.

     

  9. Made a crude throwing stick out of some black walnut, today. Needs a little more sanding, but works pretty well.  Think I'll make a few more with different shapes.

    1. LeeU

      LeeU

      I had a chocolate lab too--so special. The stick sounds wonderful--a photo would be nice--too bad it's such a pain to resize them (well, to me, anyway).. 

    2. hershey8

      hershey8

      Lee, I will make more throwing sticks and plan to photograph them. Then. if the stars line up right , and the cam and the computer will cooperate, I'll post them. No big deal. I have a thickness planer that allows me to get the wood to the thickness I desire.  Mark the profile, cut out with jigsaw, sand, and coat with teak oil or some sealing compound.   ja

       

  10. Thank you Mark. Yeah dryer is better; clay might be too wet and soft. I like some marks, sometimes, but I don't like rough to the point where food residue might collect on the inside of a mug. I do a lot of "oat milk". If that sits for a while, it's difficult to wash out of a plain glass jar. Hey, I've had computer issues over the last year or so that have kept me off this forum. Nice to connect with you again. Hope all is well in your world. j
  11. Great idea, Min. I think I can handle that. Did I say "handle". Now that's another problem. May use the extruder for that. Thanks again, Min.
  12. Thanks, Min. Will epsom salt shrink my hands? That would be swell, uh.... Must be nice to get in to hard-to-reach places. I want to make some beer mugs, and my fat hands are causing problems. Stick sponge, good idea, have a pair of chop sticks waiting. ja
  13. Throwing stick on my list now. I'm going to make a few with different profiles. So, it sounds like you clean as you go , also. Thanks, ja
  14. Thank you Preeta. Hmmm, so you clean in stages as you throw. Makes sense to me, and then maybe swab a little at the end. I never used a throwing stick, may have to try that. Thanks so much! ja
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