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BetsyLu

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  1. I'm glad I started this thread, getting so many interesting ideas I had no idea were possible! Thank you all for your great suggestions and instructions
  2. Fascinating! So it's similar to using carbon paper to transfer a graphite design on paper? I've never done tissue transfers... do you just press the paper on the clay and pull it back up, or do you leave the paper on the clay through the firing? Leather hard or wet clay? Thank you!
  3. Oooh, I actually really like this one, I'm all about subtle texture and have done quite a bit with sandblasted glass. But is etched/sandblasted ceramic food safe? Could you do it on stoneware or would you need a glaze on the surface? I know that sandblasted glass isn't typically considered food safe, even if it is completely stable clear glass, because the food/liquids stick to the surface more and bacterial growth and leaching occurs.
  4. There are a lot of really fantastic suggestions in this thread! I like the idea of using my own handwriting rather than typed text, so the underglaze pencil suggestion really stood out. I'm assuming you need to glaze over top to make it food safe, though? I'd like to leave the surface plain stoneware if possible, but if there just aren't any options for food-safe text on stoneware I'll glaze over. I don't suppose there is such a thing as a glaze pencil that fires food-safe? That's probably asking too much haha.
  5. I was thinking of doing something similar, but it didn't occur to me to do it with underglaze! The wax resist sounds like a great idea. Do you just use a pointy tool to carve into the clay?
  6. Bonding Ceramic And Glass

    If you do use e6000, it would be good to rough up the glass surface you are bonding it to a little. Sandblasting works well but if you don't have access to a sandblaster, use emory paper (UNDER WATER. You don't want to breathe that crap.) Good luck!
  7. Hi everyone! I'm brainstorming about different ways to add text to ceramic pieces. I'm making a set of gray plates and I want the text to be small (in the neighbourhood of 14-point), subtle, and food-safe. I also don't think I will glaze over top, I just want to leave the stoneware (^6) as is. I'd love to hear your suggestions! Here's what I can think of so far: 1. scratch the text into leather hard or dry greenware. Leave as is or fill in with underglaze or glaze. (I think I'd particularly like the look of a coat of glaze and then everything wiped off the top so the glaze just stayed in the words) 2. Ceramic decals, which I know next to nothing about. Are they food-safe or do you have to put glaze over top? 3. Meticulously placing alphabet pasta in place and pressing gently into the clay. It will burn out in the bisque fire. (I have tried this and it works great, but that's a LOT of sorting through alphabet pasta!) 4. buy some letter stamps and use those. (Again, perhaps too labor-intensive for a set of plates.) 5. Paint words on with an underglaze or heavily pigmented glaze. (Are underglazes food safe, or do you have to put glaze over top?) Anything I missed?
  8. Thanks for the info! I have been doing some more research and have read about mixing up a slip with a little cobalt carbonate in it, and then painting that on (I would assume) leather-hard clay before bisquing. I generally brush my glazes, since I don't have the equipment for spraying or the large buckets of glaze for dipping (small operation, here!) Sometimes I sponge on the glaze, but that takes a long time to get a good coat and since I'm doing a set of plates I will probably be brushing. If I apply the cobalt (either mixed with frit and water or mixed into a slip) to greenware and then fire, will it still cause bleeding?
  9. Someone at the ceramic supply store I've been going to recently mentioned to me that it's possible to do a sort of underpainting with cobalt carbonate mixed with water. (I think...she may have said a different binder, but I'm pretty sure it was water.) I've tried researching it a little and can't seem to find anything on the internet about it or how to do it. Can you paint unfired clay with the cobalt-water mixture before you bisque it? Do you paint it on bisqueware and fire separately before glazing over top? Do you paint it on bisqueware and apply the glaze directly over the top? Would love to know if anyone has tried this and how you did it! Thanks
  10. Ash Glaze Questions

    John, thanks for the detailed description! Based on what you said I think I will go ahead and go finer than just the window screen. Ruth, let us know what your results are! Seems like a good way to get the organic matter and other impurities out but I'm not the expert here. I guess I'll just wait for a still day and head out equipped with a good respirator and a few screens. Can you buy cheaper screen materials at the hardware store? Each screen is like $20-$30 at the ceramics store, and I probably won't be using them that often after this project!
  11. Ash Glaze Questions

    The whole point of this particular project is testing the different results from various local ashes, so making a fake ash glaze would kind of be pointless for me Besides, I have the time to process the ash.
  12. Ash Glaze Questions

    All I could find is that you sieve it up to 80. Do you do that while it is dry? After it's mixed and is wet? Is it necessary to sieve it so finely?
  13. Ash Glaze Questions

    Just an update: spent a long time talking to the pros at the ceramic supply store, and they convinced me to start with a recipe and start at ^6 (because apparently ^10 or 11 is very hard/sometimes impossible in electric kilns, which I'll probably be using). They found me a recipe that I quite like. It is simple, but probably a little more stable and predictable than just ash and clay. Frasca Wood Ash Glaze (Cone 6): Whiting...............................11.36% Wood ash (unwashed).......54.56 Potash feldspar..................11.36 Ball Clay.............................11.36 Silica (flint)..........................11.36 Optional: Green: copper carbonate........4% Blue: cobalt carbonate..........2% I also got an Idaho kaolin to try out instead of the ball clay, just to see if it works and what the difference is. My plan is to make 6 tiles (well, small shallow bowls since I'll be using these glazes on the inside of plates and shallow bowls) for each different ash or ash mix I am testing. 1A: the ash mixed as the above glaze with ball clay as the clay body 1B: the ash mixed as the above glaze with the kaolin as the clay body Then I will divide what is left from each into 2 smaller containers, and add a small amount of cobalt and copper to each (it won't be completely accurate but that's okay, I just want to get a vague idea of what kind of color I might get) This will result in 4 smaller test bowls: 1A1: ball clay mix with copper 1A2: ball clay mix with cobalt 1B1: kaolin clay mix with copper 1B2: kaolin clay mix with cobalt After the first firing of all these test tiles, I'll evaluate which ones worked well and which ones didn't, and then if I like how the added colors look on any of them I will do more tests to determine what percentage to use in the glaze for the actual pieces. I've chosen a nice and slightly grainy light cream ^6 clay body as my base for all the tests and pieces. Does that seem like a good plan? Also, at the store they recommended I just sift the ash through a window screen or kitchen strainer, and said they thought I'd lose too much ash if I try to sift it any finer and that the larger chunks will add more character. Does that seem right?
  14. Low-Fire Teapot Foodsafe?

    Thanks for the tip, BeckyH!
  15. Ash Glaze Questions

    I'm almost positive it's an electric kiln, but like I said before I haven't had a chance to discuss this project with the friend as she is on holiday. I'm trying to do as much preliminary research as possible before I talk to her about it while I wait. I know that oxidation and reduction play a part in ceramic firings but I don't know much about it, or if that's even possible with an electric kiln. I also don't know what kind of base clay body I'll be using yet- it will be bought, though. I'm not going to try to make my own clay body just yet, one thing at a time. I don't know anything about the clays used for mixing glazes. Like I said, I am NEW to this. I'm learning as fast as I can, but that's why I'm here: to ask questions and get advice. If I only glaze the insides of bowls/plates, I don't need a catch tray, right? Just for samples? Is it something you make or buy? Thanks for copying and pasting the long description of Nepheline Syenite, but it didn't really tell me anything google couldn't haha. What I wanted to know was just a simple explanation of how it is used in this application. I gather that it is similar to feldsbars, lowers the temperature of clay bodies (and/or glazes?) but it's important not to use too much or else the high thermal expansion causes crazing. Like I said before, I think I'm going to try it out with just clay and ash to begin with. Keep it as simple as possible to really let the character of the ash shine through! I've started saving ash and once I get my respirator out of storage I'll start sieving it and processing it. Decided NOT to wash it. Meanwhile I'll go to the ceramic supply store and find a suitable high-fire clay body to do all my tests and pieces out of, and talk to them about the clay possibilities for glaze mixing.
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