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Chilly

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  1. Like
    Chilly got a reaction from Hulk in QotW: Are you Dipper, Pourer, Sprayer, sponger, squirter, or Brusher?    
    Brusher, followed by pouring in/out.  Never use enough of amy glaze to justify quantity needed for dipping.
  2. Like
    Chilly got a reaction from Callie Beller Diesel in troubleshooting glaze color without buying all of the glazes in the world....   
    There is a Facebook group.......  https://www.facebook.com/groups/potterschoiceex
  3. Like
    Chilly reacted to Dick White in What could cause this (hard panning)   
    What @PeterH said. Neph sye is a known bad boy in the glaze chem world. It is very high in sodium, which is why it is popular. It is also slightly soluble. Sodium is an alkaline deflocculant, which results in hard panning. The sodium slowly leaches out of the neph sye and at some indeterminate point deflocs the glaze slurry and it hard pans.
    Also understand clay is the only material that can be flocculated to create a suspended glaze slurry. Materials such as feldspars or feldspathic materials (neph sye), other minerals such as whiting, etc., or frits do not respond to the alkaline or acidic conditions in the slurry to deflocculate or flocculate, respectively. Only clay responds to the deflocculation/flocculation process. A recipe with little or no clay, such as your recipe with a mere 5% EPK, needs a few additional percent of bentonite (a super clay) upon which to cause flocculation (if needed) by adding a mild acid such as epsom salts. And then after some time, the alkaline sodium leaches out of the neph sye and neutralizes whatever acidity in the slurry has been keeping the clay suspended, and boom, without warning it all falls down. The bentonite is not enough to stop this from happening. Dig it out and remix it with some epsom salts or vinegar to neutralize the excess alkalinity and restore the suspension.
    As for the Magma product that folks above recommend, it does not chemically flocculate the slurry. It is an artificial gum additive that mechanically suspends the glaze solids. It is unaffected by the soluble leached sodium from the neph sye. It also has other attributes, so read the cautionary statements on the label. Otherwise, it floats bricks.
     
  4. Like
    Chilly got a reaction from Hulk in Partial glazing of large pot in soda fire   
    Personally, I think he's talking out of his .....sit-upon.
    I do think not glazing both inside and out can cause glaze fit issues, but implode......
    Test (in your own kiln) by making a small vessel, glaze as you want, put into a saggar and fire it.
     
  5. Like
    Chilly got a reaction from Pres in QotW: Sit or Stand, and on what type of Surface/Furniture?   
    I don't throw, but stand when hand-building.  I use the highest table at the community centre, and often work on top of boxes to raise my work, and my benches in my greenhouse (studio) are high too.
    I fidget, and am short in the body, and find sitting for most tasks is not comfortable.  I did evening classes working with glass - fusing, copper foiling, leading and was the only one in the class who stood for 3-4 hours.  
    The only stuff I do sitting is textile based - spinning, sewing, knitting, although for spindle spinning it's easier to stand, same for weaving.
    I think it's important to be at the right height, and comfortablewhatever you're doing.,
  6. Like
    Chilly got a reaction from Rae Reich in Partial glazing of large pot in soda fire   
    Personally, I think he's talking out of his .....sit-upon.
    I do think not glazing both inside and out can cause glaze fit issues, but implode......
    Test (in your own kiln) by making a small vessel, glaze as you want, put into a saggar and fire it.
     
  7. Like
    Chilly got a reaction from Rae Reich in QotW: Sit or Stand, and on what type of Surface/Furniture?   
    I don't throw, but stand when hand-building.  I use the highest table at the community centre, and often work on top of boxes to raise my work, and my benches in my greenhouse (studio) are high too.
    I fidget, and am short in the body, and find sitting for most tasks is not comfortable.  I did evening classes working with glass - fusing, copper foiling, leading and was the only one in the class who stood for 3-4 hours.  
    The only stuff I do sitting is textile based - spinning, sewing, knitting, although for spindle spinning it's easier to stand, same for weaving.
    I think it's important to be at the right height, and comfortablewhatever you're doing.,
  8. Like
    Chilly got a reaction from Magnolia Mud Research in QotW: Sit or Stand, and on what type of Surface/Furniture?   
    I don't throw, but stand when hand-building.  I use the highest table at the community centre, and often work on top of boxes to raise my work, and my benches in my greenhouse (studio) are high too.
    I fidget, and am short in the body, and find sitting for most tasks is not comfortable.  I did evening classes working with glass - fusing, copper foiling, leading and was the only one in the class who stood for 3-4 hours.  
    The only stuff I do sitting is textile based - spinning, sewing, knitting, although for spindle spinning it's easier to stand, same for weaving.
    I think it's important to be at the right height, and comfortablewhatever you're doing.,
  9. Like
    Chilly got a reaction from Pyewackette in Partial glazing of large pot in soda fire   
    Personally, I think he's talking out of his .....sit-upon.
    I do think not glazing both inside and out can cause glaze fit issues, but implode......
    Test (in your own kiln) by making a small vessel, glaze as you want, put into a saggar and fire it.
     
  10. Like
    Chilly got a reaction from Min in Partial glazing of large pot in soda fire   
    Personally, I think he's talking out of his .....sit-upon.
    I do think not glazing both inside and out can cause glaze fit issues, but implode......
    Test (in your own kiln) by making a small vessel, glaze as you want, put into a saggar and fire it.
     
  11. Like
    Chilly reacted to Callie Beller Diesel in Refiring   
    If the metal itself is already brittle, firing it more will make it worse. You may be better advised to look into cold process reinforcements, like maybe clear epoxy. 
  12. Like
    Chilly reacted to oldlady in Burning out candle wax in kiln?   
    after many, many years of using used candles, i have learned a thing or two.  #1  do not use any added decorated candles with "snow".    toss them!!     #2, read #1.  or, you may end up with a mess spread all through the entire kiln load by the fumes.   read #1.
    i find that mixing a red into the usual clear or white melted wax allows me to see exactly where the wax is and how far up the edge it goes.   i single fire nearly everything so scraping off any splashes or whatever is easy since the clay is removed with the mistake.  if done on a bisqued piece, re-bisquing removes the wax.
    wiping the bottom on the interior edge of the hot pan immediately removes enough wax that the burn-out smell is hardly noticable.  my hot pan is set at 350, and i wait until it is that hot to attempt to wax bottoms.  the amount used is just enough to cover the foot.
    the best part of using hot wax is that it is almost instantly dry.   some brush on wax needs hours to dry.
  13. Like
    Chilly reacted to Min in Porcelain slip over a Raku clay   
    Instead of using a porcelain I would use some of the raku body made into a slip then sieved to get the grog out of it. (60 mesh sieve should be fine enough) Get the slip on the outside of the pot as soon as possible to avoid issues with the slip shelling off or cracking.
    edit: I looked up white raku clays in Australia and a quick search brought up this one, might be worth a try if the one you are using isn't white.
  14. Like
    Chilly reacted to PeterH in My pieces collapsed   
    I don't think that firing within the manufacturer's guidelines guarantees that your form won't slump.
    Probably only an issue with forms outside the usually pottery shapes, as previously observed by Hulk.
    Think of a sheet of printer paper. Hold it by the short edge and it flops about. Tape the long edges together and it forms quite a strong cylinder. Compound curves are probably even better at resisting deformation.
    I suspect that during firing sheets of clay bend easily, unless the bending requires local stretching or compression of the sheet.
  15. Like
    Chilly reacted to Callie Beller Diesel in My pieces collapsed   
    Having a look at the glaze and clay information, it’s definitely not the clay being over fired. So +1 to what Peter said. The piece needs support, or a different design. 
  16. Like
    Chilly reacted to ronfire in Slump Mold   
    Finally got the mold slump mold made and a platter from it finished. It worked well and I can finally get to make more of these platters.
     
  17. Like
    Chilly got a reaction from Callie Beller Diesel in QotW: How do you finish the lips of you vertical pieces?   
    I don't throw, therefore make few vessel type pots, but when I do, I think about this:
    However......  I have two favourite mugs.  One of them I can fill with hot drink, and carry it upstairs in total darkness and put it down without spilling a dropl  The other sloshes around and I have to put a light on and carry it with total concentration.  Mug 1 is shaped like #6 with a narrower neck than body, mug 2 is like #2 but more pronounced - it is a "gardener's mug and shaped like a plant pot.
    Shape affects function as well as being pleasant to the eye.
  18. Like
    Chilly got a reaction from Callie Beller Diesel in Panda Bears with cracks following first firing.   
    When I'm teaching newbies, I always say, nothing thicker than my thumb.  I think thickness and uneveness is causing the cracks during drying.
    If you imagine a sphere, say 150mm across, with a thickness of 10mm.  The clay on the outside will shrink and crust over as the moisture evaporates.  The crust makes it harder for the moisture deeper in to evaporate, and as no evaporation, it can't shrink.  So the outside is shrinking and the inside isn't.  Tension pulls something apart and you get cracks.
  19. Like
    Chilly got a reaction from Pres in Panda Bears with cracks following first firing.   
    When I'm teaching newbies, I always say, nothing thicker than my thumb.  I think thickness and uneveness is causing the cracks during drying.
    If you imagine a sphere, say 150mm across, with a thickness of 10mm.  The clay on the outside will shrink and crust over as the moisture evaporates.  The crust makes it harder for the moisture deeper in to evaporate, and as no evaporation, it can't shrink.  So the outside is shrinking and the inside isn't.  Tension pulls something apart and you get cracks.
  20. Like
    Chilly got a reaction from Babs in Panda Bears with cracks following first firing.   
    When I'm teaching newbies, I always say, nothing thicker than my thumb.  I think thickness and uneveness is causing the cracks during drying.
    If you imagine a sphere, say 150mm across, with a thickness of 10mm.  The clay on the outside will shrink and crust over as the moisture evaporates.  The crust makes it harder for the moisture deeper in to evaporate, and as no evaporation, it can't shrink.  So the outside is shrinking and the inside isn't.  Tension pulls something apart and you get cracks.
  21. Like
    Chilly got a reaction from Kelly in AK in Panda Bears with cracks following first firing.   
    When I'm teaching newbies, I always say, nothing thicker than my thumb.  I think thickness and uneveness is causing the cracks during drying.
    If you imagine a sphere, say 150mm across, with a thickness of 10mm.  The clay on the outside will shrink and crust over as the moisture evaporates.  The crust makes it harder for the moisture deeper in to evaporate, and as no evaporation, it can't shrink.  So the outside is shrinking and the inside isn't.  Tension pulls something apart and you get cracks.
  22. Like
    Chilly got a reaction from Hulk in QotW: How do you finish the lips of you vertical pieces?   
    I don't throw, therefore make few vessel type pots, but when I do, I think about this:
    However......  I have two favourite mugs.  One of them I can fill with hot drink, and carry it upstairs in total darkness and put it down without spilling a dropl  The other sloshes around and I have to put a light on and carry it with total concentration.  Mug 1 is shaped like #6 with a narrower neck than body, mug 2 is like #2 but more pronounced - it is a "gardener's mug and shaped like a plant pot.
    Shape affects function as well as being pleasant to the eye.
  23. Like
    Chilly got a reaction from Magnolia Mud Research in Panda Bears with cracks following first firing.   
    When I'm teaching newbies, I always say, nothing thicker than my thumb.  I think thickness and uneveness is causing the cracks during drying.
    If you imagine a sphere, say 150mm across, with a thickness of 10mm.  The clay on the outside will shrink and crust over as the moisture evaporates.  The crust makes it harder for the moisture deeper in to evaporate, and as no evaporation, it can't shrink.  So the outside is shrinking and the inside isn't.  Tension pulls something apart and you get cracks.
  24. Like
    Chilly got a reaction from Pres in QotW: How do you finish the lips of you vertical pieces?   
    I don't throw, therefore make few vessel type pots, but when I do, I think about this:
    However......  I have two favourite mugs.  One of them I can fill with hot drink, and carry it upstairs in total darkness and put it down without spilling a dropl  The other sloshes around and I have to put a light on and carry it with total concentration.  Mug 1 is shaped like #6 with a narrower neck than body, mug 2 is like #2 but more pronounced - it is a "gardener's mug and shaped like a plant pot.
    Shape affects function as well as being pleasant to the eye.
  25. Like
    Chilly got a reaction from Rae Reich in QotW: How do you finish the lips of you vertical pieces?   
    I don't throw, therefore make few vessel type pots, but when I do, I think about this:
    However......  I have two favourite mugs.  One of them I can fill with hot drink, and carry it upstairs in total darkness and put it down without spilling a dropl  The other sloshes around and I have to put a light on and carry it with total concentration.  Mug 1 is shaped like #6 with a narrower neck than body, mug 2 is like #2 but more pronounced - it is a "gardener's mug and shaped like a plant pot.
    Shape affects function as well as being pleasant to the eye.
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