Jump to content

Chilly

Members
  • Content Count

    1,535
  • Joined

  • Last visited


Reputation Activity

  1. Like
    Chilly got a reaction from Hulk in Posting images   
    as @Bill Kielb said on another post:
     
    "If a windows operating system right click on the picture, say send to and choose reduce picture size and send it to yourself. You should be able to post after all that."
  2. Like
    Chilly got a reaction from Hulk in After applying glaze to the pots, whats the maximum time i can let it sit before firing?   
    Providing they are, and stay dry, you can leave it forever.
  3. Like
    Chilly got a reaction from Gabby in Glaze technique   
    Transparent or semi-trans glaze, heavy application on legs/feet?
  4. Like
    Chilly got a reaction from shawnhar in QotW: Space wise can you afford to have a slab roller?   
    Mine has 6mm mdf boards, and two different thickness "cutting mats".  We made the whole thing so it would take A2 mats.  They weren't bought to be different thickness, just came from different suppliers, but has turned out quite useful.
  5. Like
    Chilly got a reaction from Rae Reich in how to make glaze which swells?   
    It looks like it's reacting away from the wax lines.
    Maybe it is swelling, or it's just an illusion.
     
    Something similar happens with glass fusing.  Glass wants to be 6mm (1/4") thick.  So if you stack say, three 3mm pieces of glass and fire them to the right temp, you will end up with a piece 6mm high, but larger than they started.  On the other hand, if you stack one 3mm piece and fire it, it will get smaller, and try to be 6mm tall.  How tall it get's will depend on how large it is.
    You can see this affect on glaze when it crawls or runs, there is almost always a curved edge that is higher than the rest of the glaze.
    All to do with surface tension.  (And COE?) 
  6. Like
    Chilly reacted to Mark C. in Qotw: Participants Question Pool For Future Qotw's   
    What is realistic amout of time to spend before being able to produce quality thrown forms on the wheel.Meaning ones that others will want (not family members)
    1 year 
    2 years
    3 years 
    4 years 
    5 years 
    longer?
  7. Like
    Chilly reacted to Babs in Cone 5 fire   
    Stoneware glaze. Do you know the cone it matures at?
    Is your clay ok with goung so high..be written on bag swhere or contact supplier.
    Tetlow...Australia?
    I go if glazed pots dry
    100degC/hr to 600degC
    150degCc/hr to 1100degC
    Then 80degC/hr to cone5 touches its toes .
    I then hold for about 15mins.
    Have you got a kilnsitter?
    What max temp for your kiln?
     
  8. Like
    Chilly got a reaction from Rae Reich in Best way to fire flat pieces   
    You can also stand them on edge: 
     
  9. Like
    Chilly got a reaction from Rae Reich in Best way to fire flat pieces   
    You can also stand them on edge: 
     
  10. Like
    Chilly got a reaction from EvaV in unglazed stained clay bodies   
    Hi @EvaV
    I don't know the answer, but perhaps you could apply a clear glaze to the back of the jewelry, to the side in contact with the skin.
    I made some pendants, many years ago, that were not glazed on the back, and they were uncomfortable, so I coated the back with clear nail polish.
    And, your English is very good, I understood your question.
  11. Like
    Chilly got a reaction from EvaV in unglazed stained clay bodies   
    Hi @EvaV
    I don't know the answer, but perhaps you could apply a clear glaze to the back of the jewelry, to the side in contact with the skin.
    I made some pendants, many years ago, that were not glazed on the back, and they were uncomfortable, so I coated the back with clear nail polish.
    And, your English is very good, I understood your question.
  12. Like
    Chilly reacted to oldlady in Glaze cracking bottom of pots   
    the best coning demo for making the clay behave is the one that neil did in the 12 inch contest.    watch it and weep.
  13. Like
    Chilly reacted to Pres in Power caulk gun to extruder conversion   
    Someone just needs to make a kit with the end of the plunger already sized, the barrel and the collar. maybe a die or two. 
    Talk about dies, I was in at HS where I taught, a new tech guy there will be teaching with laser cutter and 3D printer. Took me to his lab, and he made a handle die on the computer, cut it with a laser-center and inside cut. in less than a minute! 1/4 inch plexiglass.
     
     
    best,
    Pres
  14. Like
    Chilly got a reaction from Rae Reich in What metal can be used in kiln to make flower stems?   
    Hi @Hils
    I've used stainless steel, ex-bicycle-wheel-spokes as bead-hangers in the kiln, at both ^04 and ^6.  They come out crusty, but after a wire brushing are re-useable for a few fires.
    Actually putting wire into clay is a different matter.  Although it might well survive, your clay might not.  Clay and metal expand and contract at different rates, and it is possible that the expanding metal will crack your clay.   In fact, it will probably crack before it's fully dried, so as others have said, glue them in after.
    The poppies sold off after the exhibit at the Tower of London in 2014 had a naff metal rod with a nut/washer arrangement.  I didn't buy one, but saw a friends.  I tried to work out how to make something better, but in the end decided not to bother, and my poppy is sitting on a shelf.
  15. Like
    Chilly reacted to Mark C. in Slip Casting Questions   
    Getting that seckile in slip cast bodies is a bit more troublesome as heaving items like the speckle will like to drop out unless they are very light. They also need to  be in suspesion evenly so say all the spots are all in one spot vs evenly distributed. My suggetsion is to talk to a few clay companies about this idea and see what comes back. You did not metion temp for fired products. The speckle seems so much easier  to put on in final glaze on top of a slip body not in a slip body .
    See if you can find a commical slip body with speckle.This also may require lots of testing
    In terms of using your throwing body for slip work I doubt that will be an easy task as they are so different.
    Call whoever makes your clay body and ask about that formula being made into a slip body. see what they say as they have experince with that clay body.
  16. Like
    Chilly reacted to oldlady in Slip Casting Questions   
    in addition to the above, see the advertising in Ceramics Monthly magazine for mold makers who can help you with the design and implementation of the master mold.  lots of experienced slip casters out there wherever you are in the world.  go visit and learn, pay for a class or lesson in how it is done.   mom might have done some mold pouring, i did a little, too but there is a lot more info out there today.  look for it.
  17. Like
    Chilly reacted to Hilary Jean in Slip Casting Questions   
    Thank you all for your responses!
    Our back up idea is to use ready-made slip and speckle glaze (as you suggested)
    I have found a glaze selection by Mayco called Stroke and Coat. It has really great colours and speckle finish. Is it possible to dip this glaze rather than paint it on? I have painted on glaze before but I saw I missed a few spots - oops. 
    https://www.potclays.co.uk/studio/products/8509/pink-a-boo-speckled#responsiveTabs 
    Can anyone recommend a glaze brand that you can dip?
    Thanks everyone xx
  18. Like
    Chilly reacted to hitchmss in Slip Casting Questions   
    Pretty much all glazes can be applied in numerous methods; brush, dip, pour, spray, etc. However, you may need to thin them down to get the proper thickness, without getting an overabundance of glaze. Most glazes will be mixed to a viscosity of 1.45-1.5; some like to be applied thicker, some thinner, just depends on the surface. Some glazes that are supposed to go on thick, may look better to you applied thin. Most glazes, applied TOO thickly will either run/crawl off the pot, and some applied TOO thin will look terrible, and leave you with a surface that might not look/feel like it has been glazed. Moral of all this, is that I would experiment/test. Take the glaze you desire to use, and dip a test tile into the glaze as it has been mixed by the manufacturer. You can also take that glaze and add some water to it (without a hyrdometer, or a scale, knowing how MUCH water to add takes experience), however you might wait to see how your test tile without added water comes out first, that way you wont have a thinned down glaze you'd have to take water off of later.
    Commercial glazes have a fair amount of binder/suspending agents added to them which make them much better for brushing, however, these keep the glazes "wetter" for longer; when dipping them, especially if they are straight out of the container, it may take a good few minutes for them to dry, even more so if your glaze coat is excessively thick, or your wares are thin (less porous cceramic to absorb moisture).
    As with most things in ceramics....test, test,test!
  19. Like
    Chilly reacted to Charliechuckles in Second hand kiln, clueless, please help!   
    Got my hands on these two books and they are great! 


  20. Like
    Chilly reacted to Hulk in new to kilns...and i need advice on firing   
    Hi Angel!
    My Skutt is over thirty years in service - bought it from the original owner last April; I've fired bisque in in twice, glaze fire once - still on the steep part of the learning curve, eh?
    Low, medium, high only set how much current is flowing.
    Any road, although firing with only cones as guides is no doubt possible*, I added a pyrometer to my first "big" order of stuff (Aardvark has a decent price on the unit depicted); hence, I can track the progression and slow down through important temperature ranges (see glazenerd's suggested schedules for bisque and glaze firings - shout if'n you can' find'm).
    I wouldn't depend on a sitter; too much can go wrong.
    If you are watching cones, protect your eyes, welding glasses are req. You'll also need to actually see the cones - they can be hard to see amongst the glaring red/orange...
     
    *some get consistent results by watching the colours transition from red to orange, to yellow. I'm watching that pyrometer (which reads a bit low, still dialing that in...).
     

  21. Like
    Chilly reacted to neilestrick in new to kilns...and i need advice on firing   
    What is the make and model of your kiln? What is the peak temperature rating? You can find that info on the serial plate on the control box.
    You can fire faster than that. As long as everything is dry or you're doing a glaze firing, go one hour on low, one hour on medium, then high. if you're doing a bisque, it wouldn't hurt to let it candle for a few hours with just the bottom switch on low before turning everything else on. For all firings, you should have all your peep hole plugs in except the top one. If you're using a downdraft vent, then all plugs should be in for the entire firing.
    Getting a digital pyrometer is a great idea, so you can see the progress of the firing. You'll still want to use large cones on the shelf to know when to shut it off, though. Self supporting cones work great, or you can use regular large cones and put them in a wad of clay to hold them up. Use safety glasses when looking at cones.
    Your other option is to invest in a wall mounted digital controller, however that will run you $500-$800.
  22. Like
    Chilly got a reaction from Rae Reich in Second hand kiln, clueless, please help!   
    Hi @Charliechuckles
    I'd suggest you get every pottery book from your library and read everything you can.  Every author will essentially be saying pretty much the same thing, but one of them will write in words and sentence lengths that set off the light-bulb in your head.
    It can be really difficult to see the cones during firing.  With my kiln I have to kneel on the floor, contort my body round to one side  and peer through a tiny hole into a bright glare.  Welding glasses are an absolute must.  Practice finding where the cones are with a light source (torch?) inside, so you know where to look.  Also, I have to set the cones up so they are silhouetted against an element, otherwise I can't see them.  Most times, I put them in just to tell me what the kiln did, as opposed to what it is doing.
    Good luck.
  23. Like
    Chilly got a reaction from Rae Reich in Second hand kiln, clueless, please help!   
    Hi @Charliechuckles
    I'd suggest you get every pottery book from your library and read everything you can.  Every author will essentially be saying pretty much the same thing, but one of them will write in words and sentence lengths that set off the light-bulb in your head.
    It can be really difficult to see the cones during firing.  With my kiln I have to kneel on the floor, contort my body round to one side  and peer through a tiny hole into a bright glare.  Welding glasses are an absolute must.  Practice finding where the cones are with a light source (torch?) inside, so you know where to look.  Also, I have to set the cones up so they are silhouetted against an element, otherwise I can't see them.  Most times, I put them in just to tell me what the kiln did, as opposed to what it is doing.
    Good luck.
  24. Like
    Chilly got a reaction from Rae Reich in What metal can be used in kiln to make flower stems?   
    Hi @Hils
    I've used stainless steel, ex-bicycle-wheel-spokes as bead-hangers in the kiln, at both ^04 and ^6.  They come out crusty, but after a wire brushing are re-useable for a few fires.
    Actually putting wire into clay is a different matter.  Although it might well survive, your clay might not.  Clay and metal expand and contract at different rates, and it is possible that the expanding metal will crack your clay.   In fact, it will probably crack before it's fully dried, so as others have said, glue them in after.
    The poppies sold off after the exhibit at the Tower of London in 2014 had a naff metal rod with a nut/washer arrangement.  I didn't buy one, but saw a friends.  I tried to work out how to make something better, but in the end decided not to bother, and my poppy is sitting on a shelf.
  25. Like
    Chilly got a reaction from Rae Reich in how to make glaze which swells?   
    It looks like it's reacting away from the wax lines.
    Maybe it is swelling, or it's just an illusion.
     
    Something similar happens with glass fusing.  Glass wants to be 6mm (1/4") thick.  So if you stack say, three 3mm pieces of glass and fire them to the right temp, you will end up with a piece 6mm high, but larger than they started.  On the other hand, if you stack one 3mm piece and fire it, it will get smaller, and try to be 6mm tall.  How tall it get's will depend on how large it is.
    You can see this affect on glaze when it crawls or runs, there is almost always a curved edge that is higher than the rest of the glaze.
    All to do with surface tension.  (And COE?) 
×

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.