Chilly got a reaction from Hulk in QotW: What is your studio companion lately?
I have the box containing my dad's ashes. Soon to be joined by my mum's as she passed away last weekend.
Live companions include the robins nesting under the greenhouse staging, many bees and butterflies - which, unfortunately get caught up in the spider's webs before I can set them free.
Occasionally a sparrowhawk sitting in the tree outside the window.
Chilly got a reaction from Magnolia Mud Research in selecting a wood fired kiln design
There's a book, available online, called backyard kilns - https://stevemillsmudslinger.weebly.com/backyard-kiln-e-book.html the link to the pdf file is at the bottom of the page, in very pale print.
It's a great book, and this is the kiln I was going to build.
Chilly got a reaction from Min in using washing mangle as slab roller
Sounds like a lot of money. I paid £25 for mine, it just needed a good clean, and I painted it, mainly as I didn't like the colour!
I do love mine, it's easy to use, doesn't take up much floor space, and is re-cycling at it's best.
Chilly reacted to GEP in The perils of using a .CO domain name
Lots of new business owners are finding that the .COM domain names they want are not available, or that they are considered "premium" domain names and are too expensive for a small business owner. Many are opting to buy .CO domain names instead. (.CO is the country code for Colombia, but the suffix is being marketed to American audiences as a close approximation of .COM).
I don't think there's anything wrong with having a website with a .CO url. But there is a serious problem with using a .CO domain name as your email address. Don't do it!
These days, most website are visited with a hyperlink, so the visitor does not need to know the exact url. However, email addresses are often keyed in by the sender. Many people will reflexively type .COM instead of .CO.
Recently, another small business registered a domain name that is the same as mine, but with the .CO suffix. I get a lot of emails that are meant for her. When it started, I contacted her and let her know it was happening. I forwarded her emails for a month or so. But she wasn't doing anything to solve the problem. In fact, sometimes it was clear that she signed up for a service or newsletter and typed in her own email address incorrectly.
Eventually, I told her that this problem was her responsibility, and I would no longer forward her emails. She once again refused to change anything. I sensed that she thought I was bothering her, or being “mean.” She has missed out on some rather important sounding emails since them. I am baffled by her response. If I knew this was happening to my business emails, I would consider it an emergency that needs immediate solving.
If you want to buy a .CO domain, that's fine for your website, but not your email! Stick to a gmail address instead, or anything else that does not invite confusion.
Chilly reacted to neilestrick in Kiln question
Cooling too fast does not cause explosions. It can cause cracking (what we call dunting), but not explosions. Dunting typically occurs in glaze firings, not bisque. Air bubbles do not cause explosions, either. Air does not expand enough as it heats to blow the clay apart. Only moisture causes explosions. When water turns to steam, it expands about 1700 times, blowing the clay apart. It only happens at the beginning of a firing. When you put a piece in the kiln, it is not totally dry, no matter how long you let it dry. There is always a little bit of remaining water. That water must evaporate off before turning to steam. If your pot is thick, it needs more time for the water to evaporate, so you need to go slowly at the beginning, or do a preheat to drive off the moisture.
Chilly reacted to Sarah B.C. in Old Electric Kiln and Kiln Sitter installation
I really appreciate all the information! I wish I had known about this forum before I bought the kiln. Good thing I got it for a pretty low price and only purchased it to get back into ceramics as a hobby. I'm pretty decent with electrical systems but I don't think it'll end up being worth the time/effort for me. Using it for raku is a great idea!
Chilly reacted to neilestrick in Old Electric Kiln and Kiln Sitter installation
We should probably start with what you hope to get out of this kiln. How hot do you need to fire?
Next, what's your comfort/ability level with electrical systems? Do you have a digital multi-meter?
Third, are you willing to spend some money and time to get this thing working? Depending on what you spent, you may be better off taking the loss and buying a different kiln. This kiln needs rewiring, a switch, a power cord, control box, a stand of some sort. Once you get into the details, it may also need new elements. You could end up spending several hundred dollars just getting it to work safely.
I'd ditch all the electrical parts and turn it into a gas fired raku kiln, if you have any interest in raku.
Chilly reacted to Rockhopper in Old Electric Kiln and Kiln Sitter installation
A wider view showing the entire kiln would probably be helpful, but judging from the wiring boxes, lack of insulators where the wires go through the brick, and individual bands with no 'jacket' around the outside, I'm guessing it's home-made - or, at-least, home 're-built'.
Also a guess, based on the screws and other unpainted parts being 'bright & shiny" - it looks like that kiln-sitter has never been used. My guess is whomever built the kiln intended to install the sitter, but something (or someone) prompted them to abandon the project before they completed it.
Based on the apparent home-made origin, and the lack of information you have about it, I would strongly recommend not plugging it in again until you're able to have the elements tested to determine how much current it draws, and verify that all of the wires - and attached plug - are of appropriate size and type.
Chilly reacted to Babs in How to set ramps on a (very?) restricted controller?
If the % is energy input ie amount of time power is going to elements then maybe try something like 25 % 2hrs to 200deg C
Then 50%3hrs to 600degC
100% 4hrs to 1000deg C
I'm saying this as bisque creep up low in the firung and speed it up in each ramp thereafter
960 pretty low bisque imo
Have you a pyrometer or cones so you can find out what is going on in there ?
Cones dotted around the shelves. cone 06 about 1000deg
I would put cones 05, 06, 07, 08
You could get that translated pretty easily in Mr Google.
Chilly reacted to Min in Underglaze pencil smudging/running
To make a stiffer glaze that doesn't move (and pull the underglaze with it) the recipe of the glaze needs to change, not the amount of water used to mix it up. It needs to stiffen up so it's not as fluid, adding alumina is the usual way to do this, kaolin (epk should work) is a good source of alumina and is in many glazes already. Are you using a commercial glaze or mixing your own? For 100 grams of dry glaze you could try adding 2 grams of epk, mix it up and dip a test tile with your underglaze pencil on it (either on bisqued on or not). Add another 2 grams of epk and repeat with another test tile. Keep doing this until you've added 10 grams of epk. If you are using bottled wet glaze then do the same thing but weigh out the liquid so you can replicate the results, I'ld start with 150 grams of wet glaze. If necessary silica can be added also but I'ld try it just with epk first.
Chilly reacted to oldlady in Oven use
anan, you might be referring to my posts where i say i use the oven to warm glazed ware enough to have it accept glaze. i have been doing this for years and have only used the lowest temperature my oven can go, 170 degrees F. yes it may be in some way dangerous for ANY reason, but i cannot imagine what it would be. residue in the oven??? how would that happen? one hundred and seventy degrees is too hot to handle without a towel and if i only use pot holders, the pot is cool by the time i get it to the spray area.
on hot days, putting pots in the sun will warm them enough to accept a new layer of glaze. they only need to get hot enough to make handling them uncomfortable.
i have been told that "doing it for years is like walking on the edge of a knife and i might fall off at any moment."
it is true that everyone has a different threshold of fear on different subjects. maybe i am just too stupid to be afraid.
Chilly reacted to Callie Beller Diesel in Oven use
I've attempted to hurry up drying mugs in the oven before a bisque, but it never goes well. I wind up with cracking every time.
If you're heating a glazed and fired pot in the oven in order to add more glaze (in a seperate area) to fix a flaw, I don't see that as being different than baking in a finished piece.
I would not put raw glaze materials where I put food, and I don't have food where there are raw glaze materials: it's bad studio hygiene. I do rinse bisque in the kitchen sink, but that's because I don't have a better option.
In terms of drying rinsed bisque, I just leave it overnight for the most part.
Due to a glazing error, I had to wash off a large number of mugs once: to dry them out I put my kiln on the lowest setting and let them warm up slowly and dry out in there. You can program your kiln for lower temperatures than your oven if you have a controller.
Chilly reacted to Callie Beller Diesel in Glazes for dark clay body
If you can have the presence of mind to think about how you want to glaze the piece while you're still making it, adding a layer of white slip is also a good option if you want the contrast between the red clay and lighter, brighter glazes. I personally do a lot of this.
Chilly got a reaction from MFP in Need advice for newbie
Your daughter will learn a lot by firing a fully manual kiln.
Electrical "work" is essential, props and shelves maybe not if she's making tall pots.
Add up the "must spend", then the "nice spend" and compare to better second hand or new kilns.
I paid £25 for a second hand kiln, plus about £60 for new elements. Two years later spent £350 on digital controller. Still way cheaper than £1,200 for new.
Chilly reacted to Mark C. in Transporting your work to an art fair
I learned long ago to pack tight-I do not use bubble warp. I also have wares that are tough-high fired and not fragile .
I was doing a show in thelater 70's in San Francisco across from some very detailed potters who sold bird mugs of all sizes. when it came pack upo time I was busy wrapping each mug with paper and they where about done when I was 1/3 done and thay had a doubkle booth compared to my single. I asked them how that was done???
they said we pack tight-all mugs on one layer a piece of paper bettween layers and then another layer of mugs-been doing that ever since -I'm known for quick exits.
bowls require one picece of paper between them. Pack tight-I rarely break work. I know the works limits-if you are new this will take time-I never let others pack pots with detailed instructions.
I could write a book on pickups but most over wrap the heck out of work and talk story in the slow time of show ends.I usually dring an expresso Sundayt afternoon and take down the tall stuff 1st and as its slow selling so by 5 pm the top shelves are all empty .
The other thing is on Sunday around 3 pm I start repacking to get a jump on the dead time at a show.After a three day fair my mind is already down the road by 3 pm and the wares just need to follow.Double booth take longer.
Chilly reacted to neilestrick in Transporting your work to an art fair
No cardboard, no paper. Only plastic bins. Wet boxes and paper can make packing in wet conditions even more miserable. I use foam sheets, but I do not wrap anything- I tumble stack. Individually wrapping each pot takes forever, and bubble wrap doesn't protect the edges unless you have several layers, which wastes a lot of space. I put the biggest pots in the bin, and start filling in with smaller pots, putting two layers of 1/16" foam between them as I nestle them into the stack. Everything is snug and doesn't roll around. I've had bins fall over and not break anything. Using the tumble stack method I can pack every pot in 20 minutes. At most shows I will be on the road in under an hour.