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Chilly

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About Chilly

  • Rank
    those who know, teach
  • Birthday March 24

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  • Website URL
    http://www.readypedalgo.co.uk/pottery.html

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  • Gender
    Female
  • Location
    Langdon Hills, Essex, UK
  • Interests
    Pottery, gardening, cycling, Scouting, outdoors.

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  1. Making underglazes from powders

    The commercial pottery painting places near me (Essex, England) use large jars of commercial underglaze. I suspect that if you compare the cost of commercial vs home-made, and take all costs into account (materials and time to mix, test; mix, re-test) the commercial will turn out cheaper. Good luck
  2. Last year I made 20 Herb Labels and a stand to fire them in, so that I could glaze both front and back, leaving an unglazed are that would not be seen as it would be below soil level. It sounded like a great idea, but in a ^8? (1260c) reduction gas firing, the labels leaned and most of them stuck together and/or curved. The stoneware clay was rated 1120c to 1280c. (Yeah, yeah, I know about clays that are rated for a wide range, but.......) I'll be back at Potter's Camp again this August, and want to have another go. My clay choices for this year are: same as last year or porcelain rated 1220c to 1280c. I could fire them in salt, soda, gas or wood. The salt and soda firings are expected to go to 1280c. I still want the same design, glazed both sides, and have been pondering since last August how to construct them so they do not slump. My first thought is to hang them upside down, so gravity isn't trying to flatten them. Does anyone have any thoughts on this? There are photos of last year's failures and my thoughts on supporting the upside-down labels in my gallery. Gallery
  3. If you're going to leave the pots outside, and you get frost, you need those pots fully vitrified. Guess how I know?
  4. I used kurust to treat a number of items that live in my damp (greenhouse) studio. We had the same problem with the pugmill at the centre I go to. removed it, didn't notice any rust anywhere else. Good luck.
  5. Hi Textree I would definitely make a first try with a hump mould. You need to make a "master" anyway, before you can make a slip mould, so you might as well. Clay will release from untreated wood but I usually line with thin plastic as it makes it easier. Place your hump mould on a block so the rim is not touching the table, then you can get to the rim of your pot and cut it off level. I have made many large bonsai pots, I've used all methods except throwing. Slip-casting, slump, hump, coiled free-form, coiled inside a biscuit tin, slab-sided, bricked. Unless I was going into production I would not be wanting to make a slip-casting mould. Too much time and effort, too heavy when empty, far too heavy when full. The cast-iron Owl below is 12 inches tall, and the mould is too heavy for me to lift when full. I can just about slide it around on the table, when ready to tip. If you do go for a mould, a plug for emptying is a must.
  6. If one of your students....

    And the rest of the world/
  7. Plaster Moulds Release Agents

    #OldLady I've made hump moulds from plastic mixing bowls. The plaster has always just slid out, but if you want to be sure, no harm in using soapy release or cling film. Good Luck.
  8. If one of your students....

    +1 to all above comments. From a "future participant" point, I always try to set expectations with pots and glazing, telling new class members that if they want "Wedgwood perfection" they are better to go and buy what they want. If they want to play, create and experiment, they are in the right place. Set expectations without stifling aspirations.
  9. "art" of making mud balls

    Why? What would you do with that? How long would it last?
  10. Had the same problem with drooping at ^6: Next one I made sure it was born with a curved tail, not a rolled slab bent upwards. Which reminds me, I've got another one in WIP that needs to be cut apart and re-joined to avoid the warpage.
  11. I used a dental pick and scratched numbers into the ones I forgot to do. I used Roman Numerals as they are all straight lines, much easier than 2,3,5,6,8,9,0 etc
  12. Sculptural Vases

    What are you hoping for when you say "waterproof"? If they have holes, then they won't hold water for real flowers, so do you mean "frost-proof"? It's very likely that anything fired to cone 05/06 will NOT be frost-proof, and also unlikely that it will be waterproof, unless fully glazed, inside and out. And, the clay and glaze need to be matched and fully matured. Search the forums and you will find lots of previous threads and discussions on this subject.
  13. Wheel servicing - Stockpor

    I'd start by contacting some of the suppliers in Stoke-on Trent. Potterycrafts, Potclays, etc. They all sell wheels, so should be able to help you.
  14. Think I've sampled all I want, just wish I was 20 years younger. I really want to build a wood-fired kiln and invite others to help fire it, but ...........
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