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Melissa M.

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About Melissa M.

  • Rank
    Newbie
  • Birthday October 12

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  • Gender
    Female
  • Location
    Canada
  1. Joining Clay With Slip

    Thanks, Kohaku. So, about how long will it take for the paper pulp paste to dry before I can bisque fire the piece? A couple of days? (Just curious, so I can have some idea of my next bisque firing.) Melissa
  2. Joining Clay With Slip

    Okay, thanks! I will give that a try, and practice my joining as well. Melissa
  3. Joining Clay With Slip

    Thanks so much for the helpful replies, guys! Reading through your replies, I think I may not have scored deep enough, and did not apply enough pressure (for fear of squishing my work). I'm not sure if I applied enough slip either. The joining piece that I am working with is small (about 3/4" in size), so I think that is making it more difficult for me. And I can't really add coils of clay, as it needs to look like one piece is sitting on the other (as opposed to looking like one piece). So, if I did not score properly, will the paper pulp paste still work to adhere the pieces now? Melissa
  4. I am just learning to join clay pieces. I recently made a piece with stoneware clay. I scored the surface of both pieces (both in the wet stage), applied slip to the main piece, and gently pressed the joining piece onto it. When it dried, it seemed to be joined well, so I started to apply the underglaze. Near the end of underglazing, I accidentally applied a little pressure to the piece, and it broke off. I have a few questions: - Any idea what I may have done wrong? - Is there any way to test the join of clay pieces in the wet stage? How about in the greenware stage? - I know that greenware is super fragile. Is it possible that this is normal, and I just need to be very gentle with the piece? - Once it breaks in the greenware stage, is it easier to recycle it than to try to repair it? Any other advice regarding joining clay pieces would be great! Thanks, Melissa
  5. Thanks for weighing in, everyone. Looks like I need to try Cone 6. I'm a little confused regarding the cooling though. One person suggested I cool faster, while others are suggesting ways to cool slower (with the fiber blanket).
  6. Thanks for your advice, Denice. The kiln actually cools fairly quickly on it's own. (It's a small test kiln.) I'm worried that cooling any faster may cause crazing.
  7. It's just a little collectible decorative piece. I currently sell my pieces, but they are made with polymer clay and acrylics. So, I am now starting to create my designs in ceramic.
  8. Thanks! It's about 3/4" long.
  9. Actually, I'm not certain. The Cone 4 witness cone did overfire. However, the Cone 5 witness cone underfired, but I thought it may have been because it was close to the front (door) of the kiln. But, now that I think about it, all the pieces turned out like this, so perhaps it did underfire?? Maybe I need to try a Cone 6 firing next time?
  10. Thanks, Alice. No, sorry, the clear glaze (HF9) is a Cone 5-6 glaze.
  11. I have fired my first pieces, and I don't think they look glossy enough. I used various clay bodies (Cone 5/6), underglazed the greenware with Amaco LUGs, then applied Amaco Sahara High Fire HF9 clear glaze to the bisque. It was brushed on, and I applied three coats. (They are miniatures, so I find brushing is much easier than dipping.) The pieces were then fired to Cone 5. (Bisque fired to Cone 04.) None of the pieces turned out as glossy as I think they should be. I'm not certain if they should be glossier or not. It's difficult to tell. I have attached a photo of one of the pieces. Hopefully, you guys can tell if it looks glossy enough. If it is not as glossy as it should be, what steps would I take to correct this in future firings? Wouldn't an additional coat of clear glaze possibly cause crazing? Thanks! Melissa
  12. Thanks, Andrew! It's great to meet a fellow Canadian here.
  13. Sorry if I seem a little apprehensive. It is my first time working with this type of clay, and I just thought I would check with some experienced ceramists before firing a piece that may still be wet. Also, I have always been a "measure twice, cut once" type of person. Thanks for the advice and tips.
  14. Thanks so much, everyone. Lots of great tips. I checked them again today, and they actually no longer feel cool on my cheek. So, they are dry. The humidity has been a little lower over the past couple of days, so I'm thinking that the high humidity was making them feel cool on my cheek, even though they may have been dry at the time.
  15. Okay, thanks! I already have a toaster oven (not used for food), so that's a great idea. Speeding up the drying process like that won't damage the ware in anyway?
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