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About erinwells

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  • Birthday 04/04/1990

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  1. All of the points brought up at very valid and for a mug I would not go through the hassle but, it is very possible to glaze some works back together as long as gravity is on your side. Imagine glaze as powdered glass, when fired, the glass melts and forms a solid sheet. This said, you can use glaze to re-attach pieces that stack vertically because for a little while in the kiln the glass is a semi-liquid layer that will melt and stick pieces back together. I have made entire works that were held together just by glaze in that respect. If you happen to have access to keraset (a dry setting mortar that can be fired) you can use that to attach pieces before re-firing and it will hold things together within reason if you are not firing above cone 6. Just so you can trouble shoot in the future!!
  2. Totally agree with Pompots but, if the rough spots really bother you, try sanding your bisque ware a little before glazing. A bit of 120 grit sand paper goes a long way but, you must wash all of your work before glazing if you do decide to sand them while they are bisque..otherwise your glaze will end up doing some not so pretty things.
  3. Wer... while I do agree that you can generally cram as much stuff as possible into a bisque, you generally do want to leave an inch or so between glazed pieces and shelves during a glaze firing. It is true that overall, during both the glaze and bisque firing process the pieces do shrink, there are other factors that encourage us to leave a little room. You have a good shot and reducing a lot of cracking, dunting, and crazing if you leave adequate space for air to flow above your work during the firing as well as reducing the risk of a piece warping/bending and getting stuck to the bottom of the shelf above it. (In high fire some of my works have gone from bowl too "taco" and fused onto shelves above them) It also means you will have a more even firing! Generally speaking you will see more issues with larger pieces that do not have adequate space that will want to crack or warp if they don't have room... I generally leave 3/4 inch room above the tallest piece on the shelf and, about a half-inch between pieces on the same shelf. PS, You are right that pieces do expand, but it is only for a little while near quartz inversion and is pretty negligible as the work has already decreased in size significantly.
  4. If you already have a nice deflocculated slip **it has darvan, soda ash, or sodium silicate in it** then you can make a slip that can be piped on by adding epsom salt. The salt acts as a flocculant that thickens the slip until it is workable and, because you have added the deflocculant it is now super-dense and resistant to cracking. Just be sure to add salt slowly, stirring for several minutes before continuing to add more. For a quart of slip you might only need a tablespoon of epsom salt. ...also..using the super-desnse slip to connect slabs works like ceramic super-super glue!
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