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kathleenMK

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About kathleenMK

  • Rank
    Newbie

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Female
  • Location
    Texas
  • Interests
    hand built and wheel thrown clay.
    kiln construction and firing.
    Always looking for ways to get the look of high fired reduction glazes in a low fire electric kiln.
  1. Agree with Chris, get a sharp loop tool or greenware cleaning and hollow them out from the inside. Go slow.
  2. Donna you sound like me. I am a bit of a pyro enjoying clay, glass and a little metal work and joke about being a kiln collector. (4 but only 1 useable currently) Purist who do fine glass work will tell you you need a separate glass kiln with elements in the lid for more even heat. However you can do a lot of glass in a ceramic kiln with a computer controller. Glass needs a ramp/hold firing schedule where the temperature is held at certain stages. For slumped wine bottle and fused jewelry a small ceramic kiln will do fine. And I 've found I really don't have to do that flash venting or opening a hot kiln to cool the glass. If you use slump molds or firing paper you can use the same shelves for glass and clay. Kilns designed for glass may not get hot enough for your claywork especially if you like stoneware. So a ceramic kiln would be a good start for you. I'm partial to Paragon Kilns because they are in my neighborhood and that's what has been in all the schools where I've taught. There are other well known brands that might be in your area and they all work about the same and you can go crazy trying to compare their different extras. The big thing to check is the wiring and plug. I got a hot deal on a big used kiln but after taking 3 people to haul it into my garage I found out that the big plug was not the same as my dryer plug and it would cost more than the kiln to have the house rewired with the 60 amps it needs. Check you house's fuse box to find out if you would have enough wiring if you get something bigger than a standard outlet. Good luck finding a kiln.
  3. Commercial glazes: good experience

    I've had good luck at school with the Amaco Potter's Choice and Coyote glazes. As you know they have to be thickly coated. (The kid who made the biggest mess actually made one of the best bowls we donated to the Empty Bowls project.) Try layering those Coyote Shinos over the black for some interesting effects. These cones 6 oxidation glazes make me in less of a hurry to built a gas-fired kiln.
  4. I know you can buy lowfire stuff that comes in a plastic tube almost like puff paint. It's from Duncan. Some commercial glazes or underglazes( like Mayco Stroke and Coat )can be fired a little higher than the usual 05-06 without burning out too much color. So you could experiment with some of those on top of your cone 6 glazes. Or you might use ceramic stains to color a slip made from your Clay Body then use a clear glaze on top. Or just use the stains (like Iron Oxide or Cobalt) mixed with just water painted over or under the glaze. I think the vee gum is an organic thickener that would burn out and still let the glaze run. Adding the slip from the clay your are throwing would be a a refractory to slow the flow of the glaze. I never took chemistry but think this fits with what I've learned from John Britt's work.
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