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potziller

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  1. Green Dug Clay - What's It All About?

    My head hurts! And digging the clay was so much fun! Thanks for the replies folks. The balls of clay feels a bit like plasticine and seems to keep itself to itself - doesn't transfer to the hands now it's a ball, like porcelain does - also looks glossy. You know, a question that was upper most when I truly started out with clay was 'what's the difference between earthenware and stoneware?' The answer back then was one fires at a higher temp and both have their names on the bags. Now the question is uppermost again, but this time it's how do I know if the clay I got will be 'earthenware' or 'stoneware' - what is the difference at the ground level? I know I'm gonna have to test fire to each temp, but what am I looking for with each fire and are there clues what might be what before I get to the kiln? V:)
  2. Hi Guys, while digging some clay (of the usually brown type) I unearthed a small deposit of grey clay. Within the grey clay there was very small amount of distinctively green/grey clay with a green/grey stone in it. Any folk got a clue or two to why this 'clay' was different? I've kept separate from the other clay I dug that day and did the usual drying out and slaking down with this curious stuff. It slaked down with no fuss, but once I'd blitzed it with hand-held food processor and screened the 'gritty bits', it 'almost' refused to settle out. What settling there was was minimal and very slow to show. Eventually I poured it onto a plaster bat and got a ball of clay (yay!). No idea if it's 'good to go' (I'm a nube when it come to dug clay) and there isn't enough to 'test' shrinkage etc; so has anyone got any ideas to what I got 'balled up?'. I could mix it with some 'other' clay, but at the moment, I'm curious to this green/clay's make up and qualities. Any best guesses welcome! Ta mutchly, V:)
  3. Why Earthenware?

    Well MMB, it comes over as rude (that's why emoticons were devised - to clarify), but I guess only OC can really answer that one! It's certainly rude / off-hand to make that comment then 'chat' about one's one wine making! That's just taking / talking over someone else. Wouldn't put up with that in a real time situation - won't put up with it in a forum!
  4. Why Earthenware?

    Thanks bciskepottery, that will keep me occupied for a bit! ATB, V:)
  5. Why Earthenware?

    When I saw the above nonsense, I thought Oh crap, here we go again, I gotta dig out the Pinnell MOR test results, etc., but thanks to Trina and Marcia I can go pick muscadines instead. Jim Well Jim, if you're just going to be rude, please don't bother replying. And if I simple get folk using this forum to be rude and not answer questions, then tell me, what is the point of joining and using 'a forum'. If you ain't got anything constructive to say,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,!
  6. Why Earthenware?

    Hi folks, Stoneware: it's stronger, less porous and far more commonly referenced as a potting material than earthenware - so why would i want to use an earthenware clay body? V
  7. They Do It Different In The East!

    To throw my two pennies in to the pot, the west (Brits and Am.) often (but not always) tend towards 'blocking out' than a continuous flow of movements (what I mean by 'blocking out' is a set of easily defined stages). Perhaps I'm attributing qualities that arn't really there (and simply engaging with that tendency to divide things comparatively), but the work rate does seem to have more flow to it. Perhaps this has more to do with the learning stage I'm at, but as 'Biglou 13' (hi there!) points out briefly (and succinctly!), the east tend toward going with the lumps and bumps. If I recall correctly, I did read something that said even clumsy potters can make beautiful pots, but angry potter make angry pots! - it's more about being in a relaxed and a flowing mood than getting that clay to do what you want it to without remorse or remission! And then there's Wabi Sabi and Kintsugi! My brain hurts!!!!!! Just enjoy your throwing and go with the inklings when they happen! V:)
  8. They Do It Different In The East!

    I think the clockwise / counter - clockwise thing depends which hemisphere you're in !
  9. Iron Oxide(S) And Rust Formula

    Neat idea! Brass has other stuff in it too! More research! V:)
  10. Iron Oxide(S) And Rust Formula

    S A double grrrr erh. Sagger! Yes the green flashing is good! Are all the marks on your pot illustrated copper wire, or are more densely pack markings in the mid of the pot something else? I was going to remark that the green flashing seems to be (in the image supplied) at the top, as thus one could conclude................but if you're using a number of materials on the outside.......!? I Cant see from the image supplied, but has the copper burn fully flat or does it leave a texture? And what temperature did you fire the pot illustrated at? Sagger is something I can do with the college kilns, but firing temps are limited to bisque, earthenware and stoneware (approx. 900, 1100 and 1260 C respectively). I did forget to mention that the copper experiment I did was in Oxidation (1260 C). One more little detail that could prove useful to point out. Image shows a gap between the clear glossy glaze and the blue glaze. Here there is no green 'flashing' bordering the copper melt. Also with image [D] (where I make mention of the high metallic highlight), it's the clear glossy glaze that boarders and overlaps the copper melt that gives rise to the highlight/high sheen. I have an inkling that I'd like to try a thin copper wire wrapped on greenware and see how it goes in the bisque and subsequent glost (glaze) firing. Now where's that powdered copper? V:)
  11. Iron Oxide(S) And Rust Formula

    Hi folks, as yet, no 'local rust' test pieces to show and tell; so here's an tile experiment with copper wire which has been followed through to completion. Single strands of copper wire were wrapped around a bisque test tile (yep, it's a bit of a pot that died on the wheel!). The tile was then dipped in clear and blue glaze and fired cone6/stoneware. Now for the numbers/images. Image [A] = Overview. Graphic lines 1) 2) & 3) - show where the thin copper wire was wrapped. Line 4) shows where a single wire of much thicker copper was wrapped. Copper wire thicknesses are shown in image [E] & [F]. Yep, those are thumbnails! Image , [C] & [D] = close-ups! The types of light the photos were taken in is also recorded. I've done my utmost to get the images looking 'as is'. Drawing attention to: Image [D]: the resulting reflectiveness is an illusion of the photographic process and doesn't have this level of shininess in 'real viewing'. Just happened that I caught the highlight bang on max! Though this metallic 'highlight' obviously there in the photo, images from a camera are a different experience that with the human eye. Also, with normal eye-sight my eyes cant' resolve the bubble in the glaze as shown in image. Neither can I see the texture in it's full glory as illustrated by image (and I have just had new glasses). There's more................! Copper wire wrapped around bisqued tile is never (although I'm sure someone out there can manage it!) gonna hug tight to the tile in all places. That may have effected the how the copper runs with the melting glaze. Image [A] show that the copper runs and collects through the melt. Image [C] shows the copper 'really going for it!' For extra points, the exceptionally observant of you may suss that the test tile has been slipped before bisque firing. The top third of the bisque was fired with added white slip, the bottom third, black – which fired up blue! The middle has no slip added and is just clay body, plain and simple. I think that covers it! Enjoy! V:)
  12. They Do It Different In The East!

    Hi Wyndham, with pleasure! Here's some urls from my YouTube 'Watch History'. The 'action' starts at 1min 20secs for this one. The only repeatedly flagged caution for throwing 'off the hump' (that I've come across) is the issue of 's' cracks developing in the bottom of your pot (when dried/fired - or whenever they show up!). The url below tells you what you need to do to avoid this. If you don't want the full nostalgia trip, start the YouTube url at around 7mins 40secs. Hope these inform. Essentially, once you hit the YouTubes with Chinese/Japanese characters (and I don't know the difference between the two), you're on a home run. They'll just keep on appearing in the right-hand column/listings. Enjoy, V:)
  13. Hi Folks, been watching with much interest some eastern YouTube folk throwing and I'm fascinated by difference in techniques in getting that blob of clay into shape. I'm sure everyone is acquainted with the western moves that follow (approximately) as, 'opening up and then pull/coning to make a cylinder, then shaping as required'. But in the east...............!, these folk often, after 'opening up', pull outward as if making a bowl, then compress and 'shape up' into a cylinder (then shape into a bottle/vase shape if required). Often this is done when throwing 'off the hump'. What the difference? Obviously both work, but is there any advantage / disadvantages in either technique that is worth knowing? Thanks, V:)
  14. Hi folks, I am a newbie to this forum and a resonably new to ceramics. Can someone tell me the practical differences between 'rust' and the 'iron oxide' that is mixed up in the evening school classes I attend? I've sussed that rust have extra OH and H2O groups, so why can't I find any topics that say "I collect local rust" and add it to my..........(pots/glaze recipes/etc etc...). 'If I don't have to pay for it, I'm interested!' V
  15. Anyone in the UK (or elsewhere) got any experience of Discus (brand name) wheels? Also I'm thinking of get a wheel to 'refurb' - where do I go for the parts (in the UK)? Thanks folks, V:)

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