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synj00

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About synj00

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  1. It just occurred to me that we did an experiment with raku a year or so ago with some soft brick that I have since gotten rid of. I didnt have a temperature gauge or anything but do you think that with a big enough tank and enough soft brick to build something conducive for airflow would it reach cone 10 in a few hours? This would allow me to experiment with glazes, build different configurations, reduction and all that kick@%% stuff :-) Tell me good news! Thanks All!! Sebastian
  2. Grype! Great to see youre still at it! I had to take a break for personal reasons but I've picked up where I left off. I came to post the question "Does cooling have an affect on Tenmoku (Temmoku)?" and here I find some great information as you are already treading this territory. Here is my testing its at cone 8 oxidation with quite a hold time. The leach 4/3/2/1 recipe and it works but its not anything like temmoku at all in oxidation even with a long ramp down in cooling. It looks cool but its not what I'm after. Its the journey not the destination right? :-)
  3. Bubbles!

    Hey everybody, been doing some testing and went through my first gas firing. (click my sig link if you are interested in the firing) I thought it was a disaster but others tell me not so much. Expectations will absolutely RUIN your happiness. Anyways, I have 2 glazes that I really kinda dig. The first glaze is a leach white which is nice and I'm still doing some tuning on that. Below is an example of the leach 4-3-2-1 glaze that went through the gas firing with too much reduction and made it to cone 9. I put a sprinkling of FE203 Red Iron Oxide and a sprinkling of Rutile as well just to see what each would do. The second glaze is what I'm curious about. It's Malloy Clear. Its not really clear, its opacity is created by billions of bubbles trapped in the glaze which is actually quite cool. It gives it a warmer color and I'm quite smitten. Being that there are bubbles in this, and they do not affect the surface of the piece would these be in any way compromised in strength / durabiltiy / foodsafenes etc?
  4. Wedging Tables

    I second the hardiboard. I dont have a table as I am a garage potter. I just pull out a piece and brace it somewhere and then kneel to do my wedging. Then you can put the board back against the wall to free up space. I'd say just grab a piece (they are huge 4'x8') score and break to the size needed and nail it to the top of the tables and replace when it needs it. $12 at home depot.
  5. Thanks for the detailed post BciskePottery! Thats why I love ceramics. With just a few ingredients and techniques one can come up with infinite possibilities. I'll be in Watkinsville, GA this month taking the workshop with Akira. See you in a few weeks Grype!
  6. Why the uneven firings? The hardest part is going to be to get the heat evenly distributed. There are a few options like a buffer brick, 45 degree input burner port, etc.. If I can get one single shelf to cone 10 I'll take it. Its for glaze testing and expirements with reduction and some small wares.
  7. Thanks for the link to the electric woodfire conversion. I'll check it out! It occurs to me that if I make the exit flu a long rectangle such as on the Codyo site link above I can put kiln shelves in any place I want and see if back, middle or front are the most optimal along with giving the option of increasing and decreasing the damper. With that decision out of the way I can implement that tonight. Woohoo! HighBridgePottery - Its the MR100 Venturi Burner from Ward Burners. We spent time on the phone to go over the project and I was under the assumption that this was 6 cubic feet but it was actually only 4 with the extension when I got it. I got the regulator that allows for 11"WC pressure which is a standard. We went this way with the larger burner so that I could have some wiggle room with the pressure and not have to go full blast with a higher pressure. It shouldnt matter that the kiln is smaller, it will heat faster. If I was wrong and it was larger I might stand the chance of not getting enough BTU to heat or have to go to a higher PSI. Anyways, give them a ring, I got the standard reply back in email which was to call in and discuss. There are just too many variables to consider to do via email. Very friendly guy and I'm sure he would walk you through even if you are considering a weed burner or other brand of burner. Also I should add that I'm going to cone 10 so that factors in. Going to cone 6 would be easier and the 750 burner should be plenty. I'll keep you all in the loop. Hopefully this thread helps others who are considering making this type of conversion. Sure beats 4k for a new gas kiln! I'm going to fire this one until it disintegrates.
  8. Thanks for the replies and the links. Actually, Bciskepottery, I saw your page and got some great inspiration to do this! I dont yet have a pyrometer but have cones. I get conflicting information about chimney. Square burner hole apparently means round chimney hole and vice versa? I dont think it should matter that much. We just want to get a good even distribution of heat. Also another question I had was the chimney in relation to the burner port, it seems that if it is at the back of the kiln the heat will just hit the back wall go up and exit. If the chimney is on the same side of the kiln as the burner port it would have to travel inside, up and back to exit which seems would give a better distribution of heat. 3/4 of the way to a downdraft ;-)
  9. Since day 1 I wanted to do wood firing. I started with an electric kiln and although it is possible to do interesting things I'm still focused on ultimately doing Anagama. I cant truly test Cone 10 glazes in my electric and want to get as close to possible to that environment, which means a way to do reduction, neutral and oxidation. So I got a broke down Duncan kiln donated to me and the burner came in today so I'm super excited!!! Stripping it down tonight and getting the elements out then will figure out how to cut the burner port and the top opening. Then I have to find a 40 - 50 gallon tank. Gaaaaaaah excited! df
  10. Being in this around 3 years its all pretty new to me so I have no real problem finding new things to try. I do get stagnant from time to time though and I try to just focus on the present moment and pay attention. Inspiration is everywhere. Keep a notepad next to the bed with some colored pencils and I "dream" of new things to try and if they are interesting enough I'll make a quick 30 second sketch. I pay attention to nature and find inspiration there. I try to find relations between things. I'm currently focusing on concepts relating to ceramics. Connections / Divisions / Unity, that sort of thing. I am a photographer as well so having those concepts and connections already there is great but applying them to a new medium is not dead simple. It just takes some time and thought and has to run through your own "filter" to become yours. The more it resonates with you the more likely it is to be yours. I think that what you technically try to do depends on what you ultimately want to create. If it requires terra sig, then you go figure it out. If it requires a larger amount of clay than you are used to you practice until you can do it. I've got a million failed experiments that end up being inspiration and it does stretch your limits to try and do things that you have not done before. If you always throw big, start thinking about the concept of smaller (many of you may have already seen this amazingly small work http://www.viralnova.com/jon-almeda/) either by making smaller work or working in the abstract concept of small. If you usually throw small, same thing, try to do something bigger. If you tire of your glazes, go look at a wal-mart parking lot and imagine creating a glaze that looks like the oil stains after a quick rain. I love love love GiselleNo5's concept "Dancing on the edge of failure". (I'm totally stealing that btw, I hope you dont mind ;-D )
  11. Hi From Tallahassee Fll

    Welcome aboard! I'm up in NE Georgia. It seems like you have some great knowledge of building and DIY! A lot of potters get very creative with re-purposing items and scrounging for parts and collecting bric-a-brac for their studios (I know I do!). I hope to see some of your projects! And of course your pots
  12. Amber Glaze

    YES! this is exactly what I was looking for Timbo_Heff! The ball clay I can see as being the binder for this. 11% redart, isnt that just ball clay too or does it influence the color along with the red iron oxide? Man i need to get some yellow iron oxide / ochre! Thanks so much for the starting point! Sebastian
  13. Amber Glaze

    Anyone have a good starting point for a deeeep amber cone 10 glaze? I'm familiar with the celadon base and adding fe2o2 which brings about a nice temmoku at around 8-9% but looking more for a translucent honey / Amber look. The closest I've seen was a teadist but it is more green than what I'm looking for.
  14. Thanks for the tips everyone! Fantastic video. Jb is a wizard!
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