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S. Dean

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About S. Dean

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  • Location
    Raleigh, NC USA
  • Interests
    Cooking, Travel, High Performance Driving

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  1. Has anyone had any luck finding a splash pan for the Creative Industries MP?  

    1. JohnnyK


      Go to my profile, click on albums and go through to the pix I have of a splash pan made from the bottom of a plastic trash barrel that will work for you. Contact me if you need further info by clicking on the message icon in the header.


    2. S. Dean

      S. Dean

      Hi  Griceart.  No luck here.  When Speedball bought CI they didn't pick up the HP/MP/Jr wheels, so there is no manufacturer support.  Two part epoxy putty has kept my splash pan going.  For a replacement - JohnnyK's solution is the best approach I've seen.  (Thanks Johnny!)

  2. As I read the initial post, I can understand your frustration. I also caught myself hoping he wasn't still driving. This is a challenging situation, especially considering how large your class is and the disproportionate needs of this student. Is there any way to appeal to the administration to provide some additional classroom support (whether as a reasonable accommodation for this student or for preserving the experience of your class as a whole)? If there are no $ for a paid classroom assistant, any way to bring in a volunteer with some pottery experience to help out? You are to be admired for trying to create an acceptable situation for all of your students. This may require you to let go of normal expectations of individual progress for this student and come up with creative strategies that allow him to experience that week's lesson. This could mean having an extra leatherhard piece for him to use when trimming, or some bisque pieces available for glazing. What's the harm as long as he finds the class worthwhile and isn't overly disruptive? Above all, remind yourself and encourage others to be kind (like the female student who gave him a bowl). Sadly, these situations tend to take care of themselves as he will forget to sign up for the next class or become too disabled to participate. -SD
  3. Just a caution that you should consider all these suggestions as possible pathways that need to be tested. You are in unknown territory so pick one approach that you want to try, test it on one piece to see what happens. That way if the test doesn't work, the whole set isn't affected.
  4. You can't go wrong with either the Brent or Skutt. Both brands are well made, high quality machines that are backed with great support from company's that have been in the pottery business for a long time. Enjoy your choice, whatever you ultimately decide.
  5. Looks like you're in Greenville, SC. Clay King is close by in Spartanburg. I'd buy the Skutt Steven Hill model from them. This is a combo that includes the fixed pan 1/2 hp skutt, leg extensions, the SSX controller and the shaft extension for ~$1,410. http://www.clay-king.com/pottery_wheels/skutt_thomas_stuart_pottery_wheels/skutt_thomas_steven_hill.html If the budget is $2k, an expanded definition of a wheel could include a nice stool, some bats .... .
  6. I use the 7500 mask too. I purchased mine from Envirosafety with p100 filters. This mask is available in small, medium and large so you can get the right fit. You can buy it with the filters (sold as a set for asbestos abatement) https://www.envirosafetyproducts.com/3m-7500-series-half-facepiece-asbestos-abatement-respirator-assembly.html . Optionally, you can buy the mask and specific filters individually. There are a few different styles of p100 filters available. I've always bought the version that comes with this asbestos set because they offer lower breathing resistance than other styles. There have been many posts on here about respirators, so search those too before making a decision.
  7. I'd leave the grinding areas of both the mortar and pestle unglazed. If you want to glaze part of the pestle, you might be able to use wadding on the unglazed areas since you can't use stilts. Just make sure the wadding isn't touching any glaze.
  8. A few troubleshooting questions: 1. Has the wheel head always been off center or is this something that developed? 2. Is the wheel sitting level? Check front-back, side-side on both wheel head and on the table top (they should be the same). If not, level the wheel, 3. When you take the wheel head off (all TS/Skutt wheel heads are removable), when you engage the foot pedal does the shaft have any wobble or does it spin true? 4. Is there anything where the shaft and wheel head connect that is keeping the wheel head from seating correctly? Good opportunity to clean and apply anti-seize. Reinstall and reconfirm that the wheel head is level. 5. Does it make a difference if you remove the wheel head, rotate it 180 degrees and reinstall it? 6. Any unusual noises when you are centering? I'd also give Skutt (they purchased TS wheels) a call - live bodies answer the phone and they have reputation for good customer service. Let us know what you find out. -SD
  9. Q: How do you make a small fortune in clay? A: Start with large one
  10. In true Timex style, how about "Takes a beating and keeps on heating"
  11. I want to receive pots as gifts ........ just not most of the ones that people buy for me -SD
  12. From the Paragon Sentry 2.0 Controller Manual https://www.paragonweb.com/files/manuals/IM218_Sentry_RampHold_Manual_Mar2010.pdf FTH / Failed to Heat ■ During a heating-up ramp, the programmed rate is faster than the kiln can heat. The temperature is below the set point temperature by more than the deviation setting. (See Temperature Deviation, page 17.) Program a slower rate. Or check for worn or burned out elements, defective relays, low voltage and defective thermocouples As a starting point, I second Dick's advice to check the sufficiency of the wiring over length of run. BTW, the Sentry 2.0 is the type of controller, not the kiln model.
  13. Paragon's website has a Support Section with instruction manuals and other topics. Found these operating instructions for the DTC100 controller http://www.paragonweb.com/files/manuals/DTC100.pdf and a trouble shooting guide http://www.paragonweb.com/files/manuals/IM195.pdf there. -SD
  14. Shawnhar - For your first firing, you might want to run a slow firing to gently drive off any accumulated moisture, much like you would do upon receipt of a brand new kiln. Here's a link to the L and L Jupiter Kiln manual which has information on firing up a kiln for the first time . About 15 pages into the document you'll find the manual firing instructions for that first fire. Instructions using an automated controller (Dynatrol) are another 12 or so pages below that.). https://hotkilns.com/sites/default/files/pdf/BookJupiterManual 9-26-11.pdf -S. Dean
  15. Another Tara Wilson video courtesy of Ceramic Arts Dailey/Ceramic Arts Network here:
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