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Bobg

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About Bobg

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  1. Here's a pict of the type of mug in question. The impression is just over 1/8" thick. Not the best picture, slightly out of focus.
  2. I do all my dusty work under a vent hood that I have over my metal lathe and milling machine. The glaze would have been hard to get off with a damp sponge due to the depth of the inpressions. If I can find a decent picts of the mugs I'll post one so you can see. Bob
  3. I found the wax resist worked to a certain extent. The area I was trying to keep glaze off of was highly textured. I had dipped one mug and when I saw that the glaze was not coming off put it aside. I plicked it up last week and decided to try and clean the glaze off on textured area. I had a small nylon brush in the shop so I started to brush it. I came off quite easily, so in a way it did resist the way. The rest of the mugs we brushed the glaze on, which takes more time and the glaze is more variable in it's appearance. Bob
  4. What are some of the recommendations for wax resist. Does it get old? I've had mine for about four years. Bob
  5. I'll have to look at the jar and see if it's hot or cold wax, I'm just assuming it's cold. I applied it with a foam brush, that way I can just throw them away when I'm done. The wax dried for about 15 minutes, but it's currently 35 degrees outside and my shop is only about 60. I'm going to make up some test pieces and try a variety of application techniques to see what works. Thanks, Bob
  6. I'm trying to make some mugs that have 1/8" thick slab attached to it that has a stamped design on it. What I'm trying to do is put wax resist on the stamped piece so the glaze doesn't stick to it. And then dip the mug in glaze. I was expecting the glaze to not adhere to the stamping, but it totall covered it. I tried blowing the glaze off, but that did not work. Looking for a way to do this. Maybe my wax resist is not good. I bought it from Clay Art Center in Seattle, I'm assuming it's their house brand. Any help is greatly appreciated. Bob
  7. I don't get a chance to participate in the forums very often. But, my brother in law wants some coffee mugs with his company logo on them. I remember at one time on the forum that someone gave the process of making decals and the procedure to put them on pottery. Do anyone remember that and if they do point me in the right direction. Thanks, Bob
  8. Grype, What's the glaze you are using inside the bowl in this picture? Bob
  9. I'm looking for an underglaze that will give me the same color as in the picture at cone 6. Any one have a clue where I can get some? I'd even be interested in a glaze. Bob
  10. How Big Of A Bucket Do I Need?

    I start with 11 oz of water per pound of glaze to start. Bob
  11. I mainly use my little Skutt 181 for everything I fire. I know how long it takes to fire for bisque and for glazes. To give myself a good fudge factor I just use the max wattage for the total length of firing, which I believe on that kiln is 4800 watts. And multiply that by what a KWH costs me. You can easily figure the cost of each piece if they are comparable in size. Bob
  12. Glaze too dull

    I also like the color. There may not really be any reason for the color being off to you. Different kilns different environments. Bob
  13. By-pass the rheostat in the foot pedal. just wire it direct. If it works it's the rheostat. if not it's something in the motor or controller. Bob
  14. Best cheap decal company?

    Wasn't there someone that's a member here was using a laser printer to make decals? Bob
  15. Shaker-mixer.

    I use a mixer on my drill. One thing you want to make sure of is if you mix in a plastic bucket that there are no sharp edges on the mixer. I ended up with pieces of plastic bucket in my glaze when I first mixed up the glaze. Good think I sieve it a couple of times after mixing, that's the only way I would have found out it was in there. Bob
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