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DAY

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Everything posted by DAY

  1. Since you are 'getting back into clay' i assume there is no rush. If so, check craigs list daily. my last two L&L 23 inch kilns (one with a computer control) went for $500 and $700. Make sure there are photos, and with L&L the serial number is the date of manufacture.
  2. Electric Kiln

    Jennifer, see if you can download the instruction manual. I know with my L&L kilns there are dozens of pages telling how to do everything from write a custom program for crystal firing to doing 15 minutes at 500 degrees for a pizza. I have yet to try a crystal firing.
  3. Slightly off topic: If you/anyone really intends to do a lot of cone ten firing, why not go with gas? That temperature is really hard on elements, and you can't do reduction or salt.
  4. Electric Kiln

    Is there anything made in your hemisphere? China? South Africa? South America?
  5. I currently load a pair of 7.5 cu ft 'bucket' kilns about six times a week. (same height as the 10 cu ft) I don't have any health issues doing the job. I am 5'8", 30 pounds overweight, and 72 years old.
  6. I have often wondered why the big price difference, so neil supplies the answer! Now the question is why buy a front loader? Surely, unless one is physically handicapped, the front loader is not that much better. a 20 cu/ft gas I understand, is better from a design standpoint, but not an 10 foot electric.
  7. Don't forget that a full kiln takes longer/costs more to fire than a smaller load. Kilns are dirt cheap, considering the wholesale/retail value of each load. My 10 cu.ft. L&L usually has between $500 and $1000 in it.
  8. @Biglou13: My drywall gets wet because the heat panels are driving the moisture up and out. Same way steam rises from a pot on the stove. (Panels are sheetrock with electric wires inside, used mostly in ceilings) That is how I can go from bag of clay to kiln in 24 hours.
  9. More on sheetrock, etc: sheetrock/drywall is just a piece of plaster (gypsum) with a paper covering. "Basically" the same stuff we use for molds, etc. I put a piece of newsprint both under and on top of the tile. That allows the clay to move as it shrinks. I cut a 4'x8' sheet of half inch drywall into 24x24 pieces and tape the edges. (Plaster + clay=disaster!) Since I don't do textured/relief tiles, I have no experience with them. I would try newsprint, then a thin piece of foam, then the drywall. Small (6x12) pieces of foam come in the Orton large cone boxes.
  10. When the clay is firm enough to handle they go on newsprint on sheetrock, get 'decorated', get a top layer of newsprint and sheet rock, go on the heat table. After a 'few'- four to twelve- hours I flip the top piece of drywall. It is soaking wet from the moisture drawn out. The tiles are ready to fire when the top board "feels" dry. That top piece of drywall is enough weight to prevent warping. My tiles are 4x4 up to 12x12, 1/2 thick.
  11. Every ounce of clay that enters my studio starts its journey at the dual roller drive Bailey. And has for the last quarter century. The tiles are as flat as Olive Oyle. I am a production artist, so work cannot wait for lovely weather. I use electric heat table. Work goes on in the morning and into the L&L kiln (fast glaze setting) the next day.
  12. Remember, most Americans do not 'create', they 'consume'. That is why the TV was invented.
  13. I have been TOLD that oil lamps need a sealer inside, since the fuel will find its way through the most minute cracks in the glaze. several supply houses sell such a product. Will it work on unvitrified ware? Who knows. . .
  14. Thanks for the info! No immediate plans, so I guess they are for sale- I got them along with the property. Here's a photo of two bricks that were not stored outside. No markings that i can detect. They are 2x4.5x9 And there are these "shelves" that I have no idea of what they are. Agin, any help appreciated.
  15. I have a "bunch" of unused brick. They have been stacked outside for about 10 years; I assume with some pressure washing they would be like new again. Most are unmarked, some have 2W clearly stamped, and a name that is _RUZITE_ _ _. Any ideas of what they are?
  16. Do it the same way you stretch canvas on canvas stretchers, For painting. There are probably videos galore.
  17. Garden Art

    The big problem with "stone" is the freeze/thaw cycle. That is how mighty mountains turn into clay. Check the absorption rate of the body you plan to use. Glazing puts an impervious "skin" over the clay. When all else fails, use the Google.
  18. I put the underglazes on "wet" clay- fresh from the slab roller.
  19. Porcelain Masks

    Clay shrinks when fired. Google "making theatrical masks"- there is all the info you need. Hint: None of it involves clay.
  20. Try "H&C Paver Sealer Natural. Water based". The "clear" stock number is 50.046054. They also make a gloss. No smell that I can detect.
  21. Ideas for ugly pots?

    Save one or two, to remind yourself how far you have come!
  22. 20 years ago I started drying ware on a piece of drywall that was atop a flea market electric blanket. Now I have the same set-up, but the heat comes from radiant ceiling panels- drywall with wires embeded.
  23. While using old NYT pages for hand building I came across an article from last September: "We know them best for their stone tools and intrepid mammoth hunting. But new discoveries in Croatia suggest that ice age humans made evocative ceramic art far more regularly than once believed." "They are 15,000 to 17,500 years old — the first European evidence of ceramic art after the ice sheets stopped spreading." "Tantalizingly, several of the Croatian pieces feature the imprint of a finger, perhaps left there when the artist tried to smooth wet clay." Here's a link: http://www.nytimes.com/2012/09/11/science/ceramic-fragments-point-to-ice-age-artistry.html?_r=0
  24. pre dry

    If you are unsure if your pots are dry enough, keep the kiln on low and hold a mirror over the spy hole. If it fogs, there is still water inside.
  25. Nice research; thanks for the article!
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