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About C.Banks

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    : Canada
  • Interests
    well made pots, melting stuff

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  1. C.Banks

    Hardening of glaze

    true enough - I sometimes interchange grams and percent and just assume 100g gram batches In a 100g batch 2g of bentonite is a good rule of thumb.
  2. C.Banks

    Ceramic Table Legs

    or its close cousin hypertufa
  3. C.Banks

    Hardening of glaze

    I've heard a good rule of thumb is up to 2% bentonite. 2 parts sounds like a lot of bentonite.
  4. Just in case you are missing a firing gauge. It may or may not help but they are certainly useful.
  5. C.Banks

    Studio Design

    If I remember correctly I paid about 60? bucks for a bale of 12 bats. It sure would be an inexpensive way to go if it held up after the binders and what-not burnt out. It would never of course replace hot face, high temperature refractory brick but as a secondary layer it might be worth a try - or it might just turn into a powder Areogels would be fun to build from too!
  6. C.Banks

    Studio Design

    After some minor fact checking it's actually the binder that decomposes at 200c according to the MSDS. Roxul begins to melt at 2150c (1177f). Please excuse the slightly off topic distraction. Mineral wool is an interesting thing.
  7. C.Banks

    Studio Design

    I've wondered about using rockwool/roxul on the exterior of a kiln as secondary insulating layer. As far as I know it's good to around 200c.
  8. C.Banks

    how to make white glaze

    From what I understand zinc oxide is more useful in oxidation. There is some consensus that reduction atmospheres suck zinc out the stack.
  9. electric, fly-wheel (stick, kick, treadle), lackey/assistant powered? Almost forgot the often overlooked Captain Ceramics 864hp, ceramethane powered, X series
  10. C.Banks

    Local clay with low plasticity

    Sounds like you have a clay that has been transported by water and 'washed' of some of it's most fine particles. As you have found these 'secondary' clays can work very well as substitutes for Albany or Barnard slips. A few years ago I entertained the posibility of developing a clay body from a local secondary clay. After asking around and reading a bit I decided to forgo the idea. It just wasn't worth the effort for me. Even working with known ingredients, develpoing a clay body takes a lot of research and experimentation. *I assumed the fired result was a tea dust appearance - if otherwise please please disregard my hasty conclusions. As Tom suggests pictures will help. Linda Arbuckle has a good primer on clays and clay bodies. Just in case you have a fear of slimy things and wonder what to call it. I've had that last one for a while. Koniophobia (the fear of dust) has become more of a healthy attitude than perhaps a paranoid obsession.
  11. Obvara After Pit Firing From what little I know obvara was originally used to seal pots for functional use.
  12. My wood-fire daydreams circle around “It’s not everyone’s cup of tea…more like an 18ft skiff than a pleasure cruiser, but it’s bloody exciting to fire”........Kevin Grealy Of course I imagine starting with propane and finishing with wood and some sort of waste oil system - theory is often more shiny than reality. ;)
  13. I'm curious about this idea of using castable refractory material in a wood kiln. From what little I know castables have tendency to crack and otherwise breakdown at high temperatures. Add to this the ash and flux floating around in a wood kiln and I wonder how effective a castable would be over time and if the investment is worth it.
  14. C.Banks

    Understanding COE

    Thanks for this discussion. I'd post the recipe but it's kinda' drifting away from COE and into claybody specific flux/al/si ratios. Sounds like I might like to try to get away with less silica. Again, I do appreciate the food for thought.
  15. C.Banks

    Understanding COE

    thanks for this I'm only beginning to develop an inkling of how important prticle size is.

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