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About Emily

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  • Birthday 05/25/1991

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  • Location
    Fredericton, NB, Canada
  • Interests
    I have many interests :). Almost too many to list and think of at the moment
  1. Hello, The glaze recipe is as follows: Orange Carbon Trap Shino Nepheline Syenite 40 Soda Ash 12 OM-4 15 Kona F-4 Feldspar 13 EPK 8 Spodumene 9 Red Art Clay 3 We throw with a clay called Marilyn's Salmon cone 10 variation, which consists of foundry hill creme, SGP ball clay, epk, redstone, g-200 feldspar, OM4 ball clay, silica, and grog. We started the body reduction at roughly cone 08, and we dropped the kiln down to 1180 C before starting our glaze reduction. The shape of the form was kind of like a hershey's kiss, for lack of a better comparison. It had quite a wide bottom, and then was collared in to a tapering point at the top. Thank you very much for your help Cheers Emily
  2. Floating Blue Glaze

    CMC is a manufactured gum that is used to hold glazes etc. in suspension. It can come in powdered or premixed form, whichever is preferred.
  3. I don't know if this is the idea you're looking for, but for us we use water based wax resist, and we thin it down slightly with water to add brushability, as well as getting a nice thin coat that doesn't cause any real problems. If time isn't a factor, we let the pots sit for at least twenty minutes before glazing, although others have found that if you sand and wax the pots the day before glazing, the wax resists the glaze more easily, as it has been given a generous amount of time to dry. We use yogurt containers for our wax resist, so that we aren't diluting and using the same container it comes it. Also, sponge brushes are our tool of choice, they hold more wax in one go, and give a smooth, even finish. Using them on the wheel or a banding wheel will give you a good, clean edge. Hope this is helpful. Cheers.
  4. Hello everyone, I've encountered a problem that has both me and my instructors quite puzzled. We just finished our second cone 10 gas firing of the semester, and I had a pot blow up after more than four hours of being removed from the kiln. The kiln was unloaded at a very low temperature, And the placement of the pot wasn't in any particular "danger zone". There was no glaze on the inside of the vessel, And it had been glazed with Orange Carbon Trap shino, a glaze proven to be very reliable in our kiln, and had never given anyone previous troubles. My instructors couldn't figure out what could have caused the pot to blow, so I was hoping that someone here could lend me a hand in deducing the problem. Thanks, Emily