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MichaelP

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About MichaelP

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    IL/WI border
  1. Copper pot in a sand is the gold standard, of course. But ceramic or metal ones on a gas stove produce a reasonable alternative outside of Turkey.
  2. The cross pin is the most reliable approach, of course. The handle will become loose with time, but, at least, it won't suddenly disconnect. When I was daydreaming, I was also thinking about a threaded connection plus a "set screw" (pin) or adhesive, but this would be a major undertaking considering clay shrinkage, etc. Bayonet connection augmented with a spring, pins or adhesive came to my mind too...
  3. It will definitely go well above the water boiling temperature because the attachment point is offset and subject to high heat of the nearby flame. P.S. The walls of the pot will stay cooler, of course, but considering the very low thermal conductivity of ceramics, the outside surface of the body at and near the bottom (near the flame) will also be overheated. Very much unlike copper pots or the above mentioned thin paper. As for the tapered connection alone, IMO, it will not work reliably for this particular application. The surfaces are not smooth enough to provide friction along the entire conical surface. The frequent heating cycles will dry and shrink the wood in a short order. Initially, even though we cannot apply much compression force, the taper will work. But I don't think it will last. The tapers, indeed, work well in my lathes, drill presses and milling machine where there is ground metal-to-metal contact, and when there are no lateral forces.
  4. Thank you guys. Please keep the hints and ideas coming.
  5. I checked on easily obtainable high temp adhesives, and it looks like the original J-B Weld Epoxy should work. It withstands 600F (continuous exposure).
  6. Thank you Neil. That's what I thought too, but this pot and some other similar pottery served us for about 25 years without any problem. The pot handle just loosened , but I don't see any obvious signs of adhesive there. At least, nothing similar to epoxy. Yet I'm sure it wasn't a simple friction that held it there. There are some high heat epoxies available now IIRC, but I'm not sure I can really trust them. So cross pin is one good option. What else?
  7. How do you attach wood handles to functional pottery, especially when the joint will be subjected to high heat? Here is an example, ceramic coffee pot ( cezve ) that is put on a gas stove to prepare Turkish coffee.
  8. Thanks a lot, guys! I called Standard Ceramic, but they don't carry this type of setters. So I bit the bullet and ordered them from Bailey's.
  9. Actually, I called a local supply, but the guy didn't know what plate setters were. Neil, do you think the Evanston guys can order setters sold by Bailey's if I send them a link or a picture? Any other local resellers you could suggest?
  10. Thanks Neil. Do you use the same ones shown by GEP?
  11. Thank you. Do you use the round ones? I looked into them (14" round), called the company to place the order, but got discouraged when the price more than doubled (they charge hefty handling fees on top or a pretty high shipping cost).
  12. I'd like to know your preferences for plate setters for electric kilns (Cone 6, mostly). Info that will simplify finding and ordering them would be appreciated. I think I'd prefer setters that provide solid support (shelves) for the foot ring rather than those that hold the plates in a few spots only. But your hands on experience with any type of setters will be much appreciated anyway. Thank you. Mike
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