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  1. I wonder how this myth ever got started? What do people think happens to clay when it is IN THE GROUND? Do they think it is at a constant 72º F? I'm not yelling at you, MMB, I'm just amazed that this myth persists, along with the other silly one, that mold will harm clay. Let the clay thaw, then let it dry to the right consistency; wedge it as normal, you will be fine. I have had clay freeze quite often, and some of the best throwing has resulted with that clay, sometime it improves the plasticity, for me. The clay in the bucket did not freeze because you must add (or remove ) a lot of heat for water to change its temperature. The more water, the more heat must be added or removed to change its temperature. If you only had a cup of water, it probably would have frozen solid, or come close to doing so. The specific heat of water is a good thing for fish and other aquatic fauna that live in areas where the temp dips below freezing, it (along with the thermal mass of the earth) enables them to continue living in their watery environs through the winter. Here's some cool looking frozen stoneware that I popped out of the bucket:
  2. http://www.facebook.com/people/Mark-Kenan-Issenberg/1174593910
  3. Well, there you go, you learn something every day. I thought concrete countertops were more durable than you describe, and that sealing technology would be more advanced than it is. Those leaves are beautiful, quite a few people in our area make concrete birdbaths and such, from castor bean and colocasia ("elephant ear") leaves. Perhaps JBaymore will find that article that will help you, and then you're off and running!
  4. I hate to be a "Negative Nelly," but I just don't see the utility of this, even if you could get it to work. 1. You are going to need a large kiln to fire countertops. Do you have one? If not, get ready to lay out big dollars for one that can hold countertop(s). 2. Glaze, enamel, is not a durable surface for a countertop. Yes, there are tile countertops, but they are not very impact tolerable, if the edge of a heavy pot or cutting board strikes the tile, it chips, then you have pieces of glass in the food prep area, and a hole in the countertop, which is a sanitation problem. The concrete industry, and the countertop segment is always touting the durability of countertops. Why is there a need to "seal" these with glaze? Why isn't this already done, if it is a viable solution?
  5. I'm guessing it's going to be a tough go, even if it works. How large is this object you want to glaze? Keep in mind that the glaze, even if it bonds to the object, will still chip off if struck, and I'm not so sure about freeze/thaw durability either. Getting a consistent, even thickness is going to be very hard, I think there are going to be bubbles, thin areas, hot spots. When a ceramic object object is fired, the object itself is at the kiln temp, or very close, and the object is surounded with heat as well. The glaze has a lot of time to melt, flow, and smooth out. With a torch and an object of any size, the glaze is going to cool almost as soon as you remove the heat. Of course, I could be totally wrong, and you could be the pioneer of a brand new technique, wouldn't that be great!? Why can't you just use an epoxy garage floor sealer? Seems much easier. Good luck!
  6. likes Manic Street Preachers.

  7. Not to contradict the "big guy," but users can edit and delete their own images from the Member's Gallery. It's kinda convoluted, but can be done: 1.Be sure you are signed in. 2.Click on "Gallery" in the Forum menu ("Forums," "Members," "Gallery,""Ceramic Arts Daily") This will open a page called "Photo Galleries." There should be a box on the left called "Members Gallery" (in White font.) 3. Click on the link "Members Gallery" link. This will open the member's Gallery and you can find your photo(s) there. 4.Click on the photo you want to remove. It will open in its own page with lots of information on it. 5. On the right side of the page, there are three buttons: "Report Image," "Set as Avatar," and "Mod Options." Click on "Mod Options." 6. A drop down menu appears, with "Edit Image," "Move Image," and "Delete Image" as choices. Just click on "Delete Image." 7. Confirm that you want to delete it. 8. Your image is removed from the Gallery. It can be kind of confusing, but is easy once ya get used to it.
  8. Nice to see you're back, Charles. I just asked Marcia yesterday where you had gotten to... Anyway, this is one of those questions where if YOU don't know the answer, with your background, the rest of us might not be much help. The fun answer is for you to make one of each kind, and then try them out by baking pizzas, and then eating the experiments with a nice salad and a good bottle of wine. Then you'll get some answers, but they may not be about pizza stones! I have a stone that is solid, about 3/8" thick and a foot in diameter. Frankly, I have always been disappointed with the results, the pizzas never come out crispy, despite preheating the stone, using high temp, etc. So I would be interested to see what a perforated stone would give you. I think these things have to be really heavy, to soak up the heat, don't you? perhaps an inch thick or so, that might do it.
  9. Recently, at a show, a woman admired my work, and I was telling her about it, how I make it and so forth. The pieces she was looking at were finished with acrylic inks, inspired by (idea stolen from )Bennet Bean, Nicholas Rena, and from various woodworkers, Louise Hibbert in particular. When I told her that I had used inks, she said "oh, so it's not real pottery, then?" I didn't quite know what to say, so I said "Why not?" She replied "because it isn't glazed." I told her I like the effects and color I can get, but her whole attitude had changed, she seemed put off somehow. She said "thank you" and walked off. Does it have to be glazed to be "real pottery?" My stuff is all non-functional, so I don't think the finish matters so much, as long as I get the effect I want. It's fun that there aren't so many rules these days, it's resulting in some great work, so I wonder if it's "real" or not. I think it is.
  10. http://ceramicartsdaily.org/community/index.php?/topic/429-waxing-bottoms/
  11. I refired to the same time and temp as the first firing. It is going to work!
  12. I am not a knitter, so excuse what is probably an ignorant question. Why do you need the slot on the side of the bowl? Couldn't you just have a smooth hole for the yarn to go through? I guess the slot makes it easier to put the yarn in.
  13. I use Amaco underglazes under Hesselberth and Roy "Clear Liner" glaze, and occasionally get pinholes; I have had good luck refiring them. The only thing you could do would be to try it, I bet it would work.
  14. Try this as a start: http://ceramicartsdaily.org/community/index.php?/topic/521-sandblasting/
  15. Two solutions (literally) for you - 1. A product called "New Skin" is a liquid that you brush onto or into cuts. It hardens and helps the cracks heal. It stings when you put it on, but after a couple minutes, you will forget the cracks. It will have to be re-applied, especially for a potter, but is well worth it. 2. Super Glue - a drop or two will also let you forget about the cracks. Surgeons use it all the time for quick bonding. Both are also great for paper cuts that snag on every little thing. To keep your hands (and feet, by the way) soft, put Bag Balm on them at night, and wear gloves (socks) to bed at night, and in the morning, you will have nice soft skin. I hope these help, they should, those skin cracks can be quite annoying and painful, but i don't have to tell you!
  16. Sharpness is key in surgery and the tonsorial arts.
  17. I'm gonna do this to my "garagio" soon : http://ucoatit.com/pgs/main.htm I have a three foot wide squeegee I bought at the home store. I just hose the floor and squeegee it clean. After I epoxy it, it will be even better. I'm sure that is the wrong way to do it, but that's what I do.
  18. Hi Sheila, If you will send me a message with your email address (AN email address), I will send you all the pages from the Davis book (in a ZIP file) covering the manufacture, assembly, and operation of this pugmill. It's as close as you will get to an operating manual, I guess. The plans are a bit of overkill, but may assist you in some way.
  19. I've had good luck with Devcon 2-ton epoxy : http://www.devcon.com/products/products.cfm?brand=Devcon&family=2%20Ton%C2%AE%20Clear%20Epoxy It's tempting to get the 5 minute epoxy, but it yellows over time; this, however, may not be a concern for you.
  20. I forgot to mention that I had tried trimming thrown paper clay pieces in the past, and it was very difficult. As Smartcat said, the drag, and the scratch marks in the piece were tough to deal with. I was hoping to replace the paper with the nylon, and perhaps make something easier to form/trim. I must say, though, that earlier this week I threw a piece that was about 1/3 paperclay mixed with regular stoneware. It trimmed so beautifully, I was happy. My success appears to be because I let the piece dry enough, and then sharpened the heck out of my trimming tools. Thanks, Marcia, for lending your expertise to the forums; with you and JBaymore, Seasoned Warrior (where has Charles been?) and others I am neglecting, alot of questions are put to rest, and are valuable to us duffers.
  21. Hi Susie and welcome to the forum! I can imagine your frustration trying to produce large, flat areas with the loop tools. When I try to trim larger feet with small (1/4",1/2") trimming tools, I can never get them as smooth as I would like. What you need is a large flat trimming tool, one that you could scrape the large areas flat. You probably already have it, it's a stainless steel rib. My favorite trimming tools are my stainless and mild steel ribs. They will take off shavings of clay in large, flat areas, and you can control the depth and width of the cut. By angling the ribs, you can fit them into the areas you have to scrape. Some of your ribs may be too large for some areas, so you can cut them in half, or even cut off small slivers for scraping tiny areas. You can even sharpen the edge of the rib/scraper with a file, to improve the cutting. What you want is the tiniest burr of metal on the edge, which will cut beautifully. If you try letting the clay get slightly harder than leather hard, you can really get precise with sharp tools. Furniture makers used to use,(and some still use) a metal scraper in which they can shave large area of wood to get them super smooth; this before the days of planers and sanding systems.
  22. Here are the Resident Artist terms from Lillstreet in Chicago : "Residents are expected to be present and at work in their department for 20 hours per week. When in the studio, residents are expected to be availabe to work and interact with students and artists while working on their own artwork. Residents are expected to perform up to eight hours of work for the department on a weekly basis (specific tasks vary by department but may include tasks such as kiln loading, inventory control, teaching assistance, etc...). Residency durations vary by department but are typically 6 or 12 months. Residencies includes work space in our classroom studios, free classes, learning and teaching oportunities, basic materials & firings, and a monthly stipend for additional materials or personal use."
  23. Thanks, Marcia. Boy, when they say a little goes a long way, they aren't kidding. What is that, like a half an ounce for 200 pounds of clay? I am throwing with some paper clay, and it has the weirdest behavior, it gets this strange rubbery feel to it, and starts to twist and just be "weird." It might be due to the paper fibers helping to wick moisture out of it, I don't know; an advantage is that the pieces seem to dry faster if they do make it to the "piece" stage. Anyway, I thought the fiber might be an interesting alternative to the paper, it will be fun to try. Always something to fool around with in ceramics, isn't there?
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