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Dick White

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  1. Dick White

    Re-firing low fire glaze

    If you are using commercial brushing glazes, the brushing agent that makes them brush out smoothly is usually an organic gum (CMC). That also will help the glaze to stick to a previously fired glaze surface. You probably don't need the hairspray trick. That's typically for dipping glazes.
  2. Dick White

    Dry wood ash on glazes

    I never tried it with other glazes. It works well with shino, didn't take it further. Maybe something to try? The Simon Leach method of wetting the ash will take you in the direction of washed ash (there is a whole body of knowledge with washed vs. unwashed ash in ash glazes) and the atomizer will give you a finer distribution of the ash on the side of the ware. And the blue spot is just a finger touch of blue glaze for visual interest.
  3. Dick White

    Dry wood ash on glazes

    No, sadly only 10. My shipment from from Dune was hijacked. And besides, like Custer, it ain't what it used to be, so I had to reformulate it.
  4. Dick White

    Dry wood ash on glazes

    I don't have my photo cube set up, so here is a thumbnail sketch...
  5. Dick White

    Kiln firing variations

    I have heard (but with no scientific proof offered, as I learned of this during a BOGSAT (bunch of guys sitting around talking)) that on a rainy day the water molecules in the ambient humidity are cracked by the intense heat and release some additional energy, whether from the broken molecular bonds or from additional combustion from the now-free hydrogen. FWIW, YMMV. dw
  6. Dick White

    Dry wood ash on glazes

    I frequently sprinkle ash on the side of mugs glazed in shino. I have a small tub of ordinary unwashed fireplace ash (mixed hardwoods, no pine, pine makes a lousy fire and gunks up the chimney flue) that has been dry seived to 80 mesh, which I use to refill an old spice shaker jar that I keep by the glazing table. When glazing the mugs in shino, I immediately hold the wet glazed mug sideways and shake on a patch of "special spice" ash.
  7. Dick White

    Terra Sig question

    Thanks. Since I have a gallon of it to work with, I will try a drop of vinegar in a half cup of it and see what happens. Watch this space, more to follow... dw
  8. Dick White

    Terra Sig question

    Thanks Magnolia, I am familiar with Vince Pitelka's T.S. page, and have been using that recipe for a number of years now. Here is the practical basis for my questions. My community studio will be having a naked raku workshop/firing in about 2 months, led by the inestimable Ray Bogle. In preparation for that day of fun and games, I made a large batch of OM4 T.S. for the general use of the studio members, resulting in about a gallon of finished sig. I've divided it into several jars, some will be colored with various stains or oxides, others will be left plain white. All are continuing to settle, with the thin layer of sludge sometimes being difficult to stir back up into the T.S. without remaining lumpy. And in the stained ones, the stain drops out first (as expected) but then becomes trapped by the overlying layer of new sludge. Also, if the specific gravity was correct (and yes, I too like 1.15 for this OM4 sig) and some portion of the solids settles out and is not thoroughly scraped up by a less-fastidious student, then the S.G. of the remaining sig will be lower, possibly too watery. Because this will be an intermittent and on-going activity for a few more weeks, I can't do the dry storage technique, so I am wondering if refloccing it with a dash of epsom or vinegar as we do with glazes will keep things floating longer without simultaneously causing the sig itself to become unworkable?
  9. Dick White

    Terra Sig question

    A technical question for the terra sig cognoscenti here. Generalized background (nothing new here, just setting up the question to follow): T.S. is made by mixing some clay with an amount of water and adding some deflocculant to cause the clay particles to begin settling out. The larger particles will settle first and the finer particles will remain suspended longer. After a time, the upper part of the suspension with the finer particles is decanted as the T.S., and the sludge at the bottom consisting of the larger, settled particles is tossed out. Issue: As the decanted T.S. rests in its storage container awaiting its next use, it continues to settle out with a much thinner layer of sludgey clay on the bottom of the jar. Question: Would it be appropriate to reflocculate the finished T.S. to retard the further settling of the clay during storage? Would this change the working properties/procedures in any material way? Thanks for all your wisdom and insight? dw
  10. Dick White

    HELP - bartlett v6-cf Won't hold temp

    The 9999 instruction is supposed to cause the controller to go flat out in whatever direction is next. 9999 in a heating ramp is full power on, raise the temperature as fast as the kiln's elements can generate heat. 9999 in a cooling ramp is everything off, crash cool as fast as the kiln can radiate it out. However, I have heard scattered reports that sometimes the controller might react incorrectly to a 9999 instruction. I don't know the explicit conditions or whether it is just some peculiar malfunction of a faulty device. Your report of the 9999->5555 issue suggests a controller fault of some sort, possibly only a minor one. Inasmuch as the 9999 command is "go as fast as you can," you might try a workaround by giving it a more specific ramp rate that in reality exceeds the probable physical capability of the kiln, and let the controller try to keep up. It won't keep up, but it will go as fast as it can. Try setting both of those 9999s at 300 or 400. It would take a very powerful kiln to heat that fast and a thin fiber kiln to cool that fast. I'm guessing that neither of those describe your kiln, so you will get the same effect as if you had programmed the all-purpose general command of go fastest. Another possible solution is try entering your program into a different User number. Maybe there is some corruption of a bit or two where that instruction is supposed to be loaded into memory?
  11. As Neil recommends, shut it off, it's not going anywhere new tonight. Also reconsider your notion that everything is 100%. If I were going to place a bet on one single item, I would bet that your elements are long overdue for replacement. That they have electrical continuity does not mean they are producing the designed amount of heat. Get a multimeter if you don't already have one and measure the resistance of each section at each switch setting, and compare to the specifications in the Skutt document at https://skutt.com/pdf/service_manual/11-5_ks_resistance.pdf As noted in the technical reference, if your measured resistance is more than 1.5 ohms over the spec, that will explain why the kiln never got to temperature.
  12. Dick White

    Newbie without bentonite

    The recipe contains 8% kaolin and 17% gerstley, so it should stay suspended reasonably well without the bentonite. There are various types of bentonite. Some used in cosmetics and soap might not be appropriate for ceramic glaze . I would be careful without knowing exactly what type of bentonite was used in the facial mask. Whiting is sometimes used in the paint industry as a white pigment, but in a ceramic glaze it melts into calcium oxide, a flux, and would change the glaze. If you are seeking to opacify it, use one of the materials suggested by Min.
  13. Dick White

    New Element Diagnostic Results

    My initial reaction is the same as Frankiegirl. If a kiln designed for 240V power is plugged into a 208V circuit, it won't get above 2000F, it that. Look at the electrical rating label on the side of the control box and see what it says is the designed voltage.
  14. Dick White

    Malcolm Davis CT Shino (Redart Question)

    I have found that shinos are toasty rusty red/brown when applied thin, and white when applied thicker. For the carbon trap, it has to start with the thicker application that would otherwise be white but for the early reduction.
  15. Dick White

    Black Raven mason stain turning brown

    Zinc is not your friend. First off, Raven Black is not a Mason stain, but rather is a Drakenfeld stain by Cerdec. However, the problem is the same. The oxides used to create the black are chrome and iron. Chrome and zinc = brown, not black. I can't find a document from Drakenfeld/Cerdec about the necessity to use a zinc-free glaze, but you might check the reference chart at http://www.masoncolor.com/reference-guide for comparable information.

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