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Everything posted by oldlady

  1. elise, it sounds as though you could benefit from a good standard book on making pottery. one that is old but has good information was used as a textbook is written by a man whose name was John Kenny. thought i had one on my shelf here but do not. do not think that it is useless because of its age and lack of color photos, there is solid information and a glossary of terms used every day by potters. there are others but he wrote simply and understandably. the original book was dated 1949 but there are a number of later updated editions. your local library has books on pottery under dewey decimal 732.
  2. well, at least she has good taste in pottery! (it may be the only thing she has good in her!) did you report this to the craft show manager so she cannot get away with it again? of course not, you are a kind and polite person who does not want to cause any trouble. but, if you do nothing, she thinks it is OK and will continue. it must have taken great restraint on your part not to kick her and scream out her crime. that is the mark of a decent human being when faced with such a betrayal of trust. for someone on an arts council she must do something public to show she has learned a lesson. you cannot let it stand. how can you publicize this to prevent it happening again? there are rules in every craft show i have attended that prevent people from selling work that is not their own. i have never seen anything this brazen, usually it is just something make from a mold like thousands of others.
  3. tried it. button will not stay in unless the timer is set. that seems to mean that it went off on the timer. i guess i have to wait until late tomorrow to open it and see the minibar in the sitter. in any case, have to pack up to drive north on tuesday. maybe they reached 06. i set limit of 7 hours from now. big storm coming in about 9 so the studio needs to be closed up. education the hard way, thanks, guys for the info. hulk, there is a big note written on the wiring box where the kiln is. wrote it years ago and it says "check timer!" maybe i will from now on.
  4. so, with no idea of what the temp is now, i can just push the button in after setting some time on the timer? and set the top knob to high along with the other two that are set on high already.
  5. for the first time, i fired faster than normal. for the umpteenth time i forgot about the (4 letter word) timer. this time i ran out of the house when i remembered that i had not looked at the timer at all and i did not want to have to refire this bisque load. the kiln was off. the timer said zero, the button was out on the sitter. the top knob was still on med. i was using a timer inside to turn the 3 buttons up at 50 minute intervals and i was about to go out to turn up the top to high. the firing started at 8:10 this morning and i ran out at 3:15. it was a light load since i plan to leave tuesday. question. if a timer shuts off the kiln, does the bar come down, the weight let go and the button pop out? i have no experience with a timer shutting down the kiln so i have no idea what actually happens to turn off the power. with such a light load, could it have reached 04 in that length of time? and without the top knob going to high? no, no witness cones. i now know why some titles scream HELP!!
  6. janine, just be careful of things that look too good to be true. we had a discussion recently about the really poorly made kilns and wheels from china for relative pennies. junk. rubbish, trash, whatever word suits. taking advantage of beginners without any knowledge at all.
  7. chilly, could you PM me, please?
  8. AMAZING! congratulations on doing what could have been impossible. you did it beautifully. could you please define the word "scales" as you use it? if it means the mix of colors, that is usually called marble and the process marbling. scales usually mean overlapping small pieces like the scales on a fish.
  9. what about firing in a saggar lined with combustibles?
  10. in what part of the world do you live? i have been looking at kilns recently on ebay and found that the situation has not changed much. someone has died and the heirs have no idea what they have so they look for a new one of whatever they think they have. here, it is almost normal for them to think the name of the kiln is "sitter" and the model number is LK3 or whatever. then they look at prices of new kilns and decide that half of that is what is normal to charge. so there are absolutely beaten up kilns and some that look as though they have never been fired at the same price. both are unreasonable. if you can educate yourself on each type of kiln available for your work and can wait until something shows up that is close to it, you can get a bargain. if shipping and the electrics were not so prohibitive, i would tell you about one available here in florida that looks brand new, though it was manufactured years ago and has been in storage since.
  11. yes, i use my household oven occasionally to dry out a piece to meet a deadline, not as a normal thing. but i would NEVER expect to fire anything that thick. if you want to improve your skill level in throwing, feel the thickness of that pot with one hand and the thickness of one of your kitchen dishes with the other. (just be sure it is not a very heavy pfalsgraff or however they spell it, plate.) i turn the oven on for 15 minutes with a timer. the temp is 170 F. leave the pot until i am ready to take it out. if it needs another few minutes i do it again. that is if it is a real emergency.
  12. you only made that mold 5 days ago. and yes, it must be supported so you do not do something that makes it react like a seesaw. even a small item under it can do that if you press hard in only one place.
  13. the sphere is something i have always wanted to do. congrats.
  14. once in a while it is good to reflect on what can happen in a ceramic studio. if you are having a bad day, look at instagram "Ceramic Casualties". you might feel better and some of you might understand WHY there are rules in a shared studio.
  15. good, my concern was whether or not you had cloth covered cords. with care, you should have years of use from it. is the dark stuff on the shelves the kiln wash you purchased? still wet or has it dried? what brand did you use?
  16. elise, if you have never fired before, you should know that most of us do not use the bottom of the kiln for placing pots. put 3 half inch or 3 one inch posts under a shelf and use it as the bottom shelf. that way, if you use a runny glaze it will only affect the very hard shelf and not the delicate soft brick of the bottom of the kiln. can you post photos? may we see the L&L? do you have whole shelves or half shelves? you need only 3 posts per shelf if whole, 4 if half shelves. to keep your posts lined up as you stack shelves, put sharpie triangles at 3 equal points around the top of the wall of bricks so you put the posts in the same place each time. watch out for the kiln sitter sticking out, do not put posts near it. the sharpie marks will burn off so each firing will need new ones. so much easier than trying to remember or feel with a finger where they are. i have a newer L&L and i used to have an ancient one. does yours have a manufacturing date on it? you can call L&L to get more info using your model and serial number. remember to have fun and enjoy the experience. and keep a firing log.
  17. really nice things, hulk, congrats! i was taken back to the year 1961 by the first bowls. the bottoms look exactly like the punch cards i used to work with to get the repairmen paid when i worked at Michigan Bell.
  18. lee, how big is that kiln, not in SQUARE feet, in width, length and height. looks big enough to live in.
  19. if you have access to several stroke n coat colors, just mix them to the shade you want. put a little brown into a too bright orange and see what you get.
  20. thank you all for the solution to my problem!
  21. welcome to the forum! you will find all kinds of good info on this site. the question is not about the money, though it is a consideration, it is about the kind of clay you use. if you want to use totally absolutely white clay, go for the stainless. if you never intend to use anything but dark clay, you do not need it. if you think that maybe, someday you would like to use white porcelain or stoneware or earthenware, go for the stainless. you do not want rust in your claybody. btw, could you please edit your question to be something like "pug mill question" so it can be found later by someone looking for an answer to a question about pugmills? mentioning the specific pugmill is good, too.
  22. cactus pots, i spray outside. there are three windows, a door and a tiny brick wall, no place at all to hang that heavy roll of excess hose. otherwise, it might work for someone else.
  23. molly mac, i am the least chemistry tech in the world. yet i survive. nobody has all the answers so asking sometimes leads to more interesting questions. yes, your original question was about using oxides and water to make a wash. yes it is ok to do that. HOWEVER, not all oxides are the best choices to use this way. iron oxide, no matter what its name, yellow iron, red iron, black iron will all give you some kind of brown wash. you would think that would be the same with other colors but do not use cobalt oxide and water for a wash. my info is only derived from a thousand books and experience over 40 years. use cobalt carbonate, it mixes with water better, cobalt oxide will leave little dark dots in unexpected places since it just does not mix well. yes, the experts will say you can modify it but why when the carbonate works fine? you can also dilute those pesky bottled underglazes before putting a brush into them. pour the small amount into a larger container and add water. then brush away. you will have to spend some time learning how much of each will give you the effect you want but you do plan to learn something, right? many times, more than you would like the lesson learned is "hmmm, i probably should not have done that............". but whatever it was you did taught you something.
  24. lots of articles in ceramic monthly years ago about kohler. they have such a huge factory that a car kiln runs continuously taking those nice, new toilets from dry to finished over a very long time. same time that kohler had potters come in and do exactly what lbegley wants to have. i am not the only one who remembers the urinals with tongues hanging out of them, am i? they were hoping for new ideas and they got them. and the pipe company that let potters come in and work got some really interesting designs, too. anybody doing this kind of thing today? i haven't gotten the magazine in years, they can not program a computer to use different addresses in different months so they piled up for 5 months waiting for me to get home. this was back when vcrs could do everything but start your coffee but nobody could just record a program and play it back.
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