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About oldlady

  • Rank
    single firing an electric kiln to cone 6
  • Birthday 08/30/1940

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    harpers ferry west va and pinellas park fl
  • Interests
    architecture, old Sears mail order houses, cocker spaniels, name a subject, I will love it

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  1. oldlady


    ont, you have described the work that is done by manufacturers to make clay bodies that have dark speckles in them right out of the box. i used one from Standard clay in pittsburg named 112 when i started in the 1970s, it is still being made and sold. there is a similar one made by Miller, i do not know its name or number. they seem to be commonly used all over.
  2. richmond is also only a couple of hours from many places to have fun, the ocean either north or south is only an hour east. there is actual train service to new york or miami. it is right on the major highway running north and south all along the east coast.
  3. oldlady

    Mason Stain 10 in recipe

    there is a deep crimson mason stain numbered 6006 if you find the other not quite red enough. my candy apple recipe does not result in enough red for me. can you post your recipe if you find that you like it?
  4. pres, meant to thank you for the sponge tip last time you mentioned it. i keep my slab roller surface very clean so i can use it as a work surface. it is higher than a table and the 2 inch high pile of carpet pad and rubber mat in front of it takes the pressure off my feet. tiny bits of clay get slid into two plastic boxes attached to the table by screws so they do not move. and old kitchen towels are on nails at each end. but i never thought of keeping a wet sponge handy since i work very dry. wiping clay off the wallpaper smoothing tools is about as wet as i get but then i have to wipe the fingers full of clay. your suggestion made me put a wet sponge, the same as yours, into a flat dish located just behind me so i can turn around and wipe fingers and tools. 2 rubber bands hold the sponge still on the heavy dish so it does not slide around in use. so, officially, THANK YOU, PRESTON!
  5. the strong pressure washer used by do-it-yourself car washes might do it. be sure to support the pot so the strong pressure does not make it fly into a brick wall.
  6. oldlady


    like the composition with the throwing lines surrounding the leaf.
  7. oldlady


    good handle lugs well placed and attached.
  8. tomhumf, this is where a camera is a good recording tool. take a shot as you load the kiln to compare to a shot of each shelf of fired pots.
  9. nataniajoy, you are very fortunate to have such a nice manual kiln as a gift. i thought by now you would have received an answer that addresses your problem as a totally new kiln user. couple of things might help you understand the manual fred has so helpfully found for you. you need to realize that the kiln is a very old one as far as its manufacturing date is concerned and there was a slightly different vocabulary used then. "Automatic" back then meant your kiln was equipped with a Kiln Sitter that would mechanically turn off the kiln when a particular temperature was reached. the manual keeps referring to it as the ASD, automatic shutoff device (or sitter. prior to the use of a sitter, the potter had to watch the firing and turn it off at the end by looking into the kiln peep holes and judging the temperature at which to turn off the electricity. ) cones have been use for over a hundred years to help do that. the temperature you select for each firing is commonly referred to by a cone number. that means the same kiln can be used by potters who fire earthenware or stoneware which is usually fired to a higher temperature. so you need to select the cone number for the clay and/or glazes you are using. the number on the cone indicates a temperature but the firing can take a little longer as the elements wear out over time. so the cone ,which you place HORIZONTALLY across the two little arms, will determine the time and temperature of your firing. the arms hold up the cone and the rod end of the "claw" of the sitter sits over the cone resting on it. SINCE THE INVENTION OF CONE BARS MANY PEOPLE USE THEM IN THE SITTER. bars are of a uniform size end to end. cones are tapered and some people have trouble putting them onto the arms and getting the claw rod in the middle of the cone. when the cone gets hot enough for a long enough time, it will melt. that means it sinks down and allows the rod end of the claw to sink as well. the other end of the claw, the part outside the kiln, is really the claw looking end and it is holding a weight that will be released by the rising of the claw. the weight will snap down and activate a round electrical shut off button that is located on the outside of the sitter. (if you find you cannot start your kiln at any time, check that the claw is holding the weight and the button is close to the kiln, not sticking out.) i hope this is enough to help you read the manual and that will explain your particular kiln. the most important thing you need to learn is that it is CRITICALLY IMPORTANT that you understand the cone numbers of your clay and glazes. look at a CONE CHART and read the numbers and the temperatures carefully. there are some essential facts that are commonly glossed over when experienced potters are talking to each other. 09 08 07 06 05 04 03 02 01 AND THEN CONE 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 ETC. are each a little hotter running from left to right. check the chart! and check your clay. write the cone # on the bag of clay so you DO NOT make the mistake of thinking that cone 6 is the same as cone 06. that is a completely different temperature and if you use cone 06 clay and use a #6 cone in your sitter, you will probably melt everything and ruin the kiln. see the recent post by benzine for what can happen. hope you bothered to read this long post and understand it.
  10. oldlady

    Greenware Sculptures

    wish i could handle these, they are really appealing. i met that white pig and the sheep and her friends used to keep the grass cut around my old house.
  11. oldlady

    The Menagerie

    cocker spaniel? droopy ears are hard to do. i have smushed all the animals i have tried, these are terrrrrriffic.
  12. oldlady

    Well, There's Your Problem!

    2 bottoms for insulation. you are lucky to be able to reach into a kiln that will now be deeper than one with a single bottom. that assumes you use the standard metal stand beneath it all. that didn't come out right, i mean you can reach over a higher rim into the bottom. i just had mine adjusted by using a 2 inch post under the bottom shelf so i can reach it. getting old, getting tired.
  13. and was responsible for a lot of their tears.
  14. for the pots! for the results in $! for the education!
  15. oldlady

    Well, There's Your Problem!

    "what fools we mortals be" (yes, Shakespeare said "these", not "we". isn't it amazing what a little lack of knowledge can do? could this be the kiln used by those beginners who wrote a few months ago about melting everything in their kiln?

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