Jump to content

oldlady

Members
  • Content Count

    4,732
  • Joined

  • Last visited

1 Follower

About oldlady

  • Rank
    single firing an electric kiln to cone 6
  • Birthday 08/30/1940

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Female
  • Location
    harpers ferry west va and pinellas park fl
  • Interests
    architecture, old Sears mail order houses, cocker spaniels, name a subject, I will love it

Recent Profile Visitors

91,125 profile views
  1. are your current shelves going to be used in the new kiln? if so, check that finger width spacing. with gloves on, it is sometimes hard to get fingers under the shelves in my 3 inch brick kiln.
  2. $250 sounds really high for my part of the country. it is really old.
  3. maybe roof tiles for a planned dollhouse? my imagination is working overtime here.
  4. for something this specific, i would contact a museum in an area where pottery was made during those years and ask what they use for research.
  5. that is darling! i have things my kids made over 50 years ago. they still make me smile. be sure to keep them all, they grow up fast.
  6. thanks for the concern you have shown. yes, i have been having glazenerd examine the clay and compare it to pieces i had not fired from before the problem began. his results strongly suggest the ballclay ingredient is tainted with smectite. it is possible the mine it comes from just ran into the stuff. i waited for 2 years to see if it gets better but it has not. i wrote to highwater and explained his result and have had no answer for 20 days. each time i try someone's new little loafers it is the same way. cannot cut it cleanly from the bag, it sticks to the cut surface and lifting it results in deep fingeremarks and a tiny amount removed. i still have several boxes and will use it for throwing. but my income depends on the slabwork. if the things i used to make in one afternoon now take 3 days, i cannot continue to use it. thanks, joseph for the affirmative on 365. i know someone who uses it but she is out of the country for another week, thought i would ask here for second, third, etc opinions. you use such lovely glazes that i think it might be just what i want. a transparent green is paramount. i will look for laguna, john, thank you.
  7. thank you both for the suggestions. in looking at Standard's clays i find there is a cone 6 grolleg porcelain, 365. anybody use it? anybody not like it? i have over 500 glaze tests for my little loafers and at my age, i really do not want to do much more testing for a new clay. 181 has a range of firing temps and we have discussed that before. if i am going to try several to see which fits my needs best, i need some more suggestions. it is a long way to the supplier and i would like to have several white cone 6 clay names or numbers before i go. so far only 48 members have seen my original post, not a very wide sample.
  8. this sounds like one of the strange chinese kilns that have hit the market recently. it is obvious that the person writing the description has english as a second language and does not understand what kilns are all about. i hope you have not been cheated in buying this thing. read the description of the "temperature controller" especially the last sentence.
  9. i replaced my 4 belts by contacting Laguna.
  10. welcome to the forums, tabathos. what country? does your clay have a cone number that it is fired to? is it terracotta clay"? there are many other bits of information that would help someone who is familiar with your problem make a good suggestion. what suppliers are available to you? (Kaolin is a type of clay.)
  11. OK, i have to give up my formerly wonderful all-purpose clay because it is so hard to use now. does anyone have a recommendation for something that is cone 6, white, works well as a slab or wheel thrown and dries fast? i do not add appendages to anything except an occasional flat slab handle on a tray so drying fast to get it out of the way of making something else is important to me. my old clay would do anything i asked it to do. and everything i made was dry the next day. it is now floppy and very wet so it takes 2-3 days just to dry enough to trim. and slabs slump instead of standing up, needing constant attention until dry. if you are using something that works well, please let me know. i think i remember that neil has suggested standard 181 but i am not sure it was as all-purpose as little loafers. any advice will be considered, especially if you use the clay for both throwing and slab work. thanks, all of you.
  12. welcome to the forums! there are several books that cover working with clay. some of the best for total beginners are textbooks from the 1970s. if you enter "books" at the top right on the home page here, you might get to a discussion of what books each of us consider important. there are a lot of recent books whick cover only a particular technique. don't believe any title that includes words like "complete". no single book can cover the entire field. the good ones will have a glossary in the back and any instructor you may have will appreciate your knowledge of the terminology. the photo showing a piece of lace wrapped around a balloon will remain your inspiration. it is good to have a goal when you start working.
  13. preeta, i wish i had the computer skills to put a photo here but i do not. if you would go to the website, PottersGuildofFrederick.com and look under "our artists" find Annamarie Poole.
  14. there is a well documented technique using sodium silicate to coat a freshly slipped pot, waiting for the ss to dry and then stretching the pot from the interior. this results in cracks over the entire pot. did not see the above mentioned photos so i may not be talking about the method used there.
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.