High Bridge Pottery

After looking at the manual posted in the other thread this controller seems a bit weird. T1 is the time taken to get to the NEXT temperature not the C1 temperature. That seems backwards to any controller I have programmed. C1 0020c, T1 0030m C2 0100c, T2 0030m C3 0100c, T3 0600m C4 1140c T4 0100m C5 1240c T5 0000m C6 0020c That should go from room temp to 100c in 30min and hold at 100c for 30min. Then it takes 10 hours to get to 1140c (you could speed that part up) and then up to 1240c in 100m (60c/h)

Is it frustrating because it is causing problems or just because you would like the cones to read the same numbers? If it's the second I wouldn't worry about it. Neither of those schedules you have posted are aggressive. For me 100c per hour is slow, 200c fast and 250c is aggressive. I bisque to cone 016/017 (that's a guess, I have never put a cone in a bisque kiln) in 4 hours doing 20 min to 100c, hold for 20 min, then ramp at 250c an hour up to 800c and hold for 20 min. You can see the kiln drop to under 250c an hour while it struggles from 500-600c as chemical water is lost but it catches back up to 250c and hour after that.

At a guess, press the set key then use arrows to set the temperature of your first ramp. Press set again and use the arrows to set amount of minutes to take to get to that temperature. Repeat and end with a segment that has set temp and time of 0 (or if you keep pressing down after 0 there might be an end option). Maybe press set again or wait for it to go out of program setting mode then hold the down arrow until the program starts.

I have never tried it myself, I wonder if changing the calcined kaolin for whatever clay body you are using would be a better colour match. Kyanite seems to have some expansion at hotter temps so I wonder if that helps it join the crack together.

Looks cool but even if they are giving it away for free I don't think it's worth it. Fiber walls look past their best and learning how all that system works will take a long time.

I agree if you were only using frits then maybe it could be an issue to add whiting but at cone6 - cone10 I just don't see it. Even in the only related post underneath he is swapping talc for dolomite "While dolomite has a far higher LOI than talc it starts releasing the gasses of its decomposition much earlier and finishes well before talc." That's a cone6 recipe with 17% frit. Even looking at his melt tests with frits at 1650 I can see 5 that are not exactly melted. https://digitalfire.com/project/comparing+the+melt+fluidity+of+16+frits

Interesting that pricing is the opposite in the UK, whiting £1 a kg and wollastonite is £2.46 a kg. Probably based of what's in the ground locally. Melting better is a good reason to use it. I am yet to find any proof that whitings LOI causes issues with glazes, it starts at 700c (1300f) and over by 900c (1650f)

Do you have a particular reason for using wollastonite? I found swapping wollastonite for whiting and silica made no difference to glazes and whiting is much nicer to work with.

@PeterH No I didn't think you were being critical of my advice, I have just started using glazy and added all my materials but then started questioning myself if that was the right thing to do. I know most exist but it's nice to be in control of materials you use.

Is it bad practice to create/duplicate all your materials on glazy?

If you click on the create option in the menu then choose new material you can add it that way if you have the frit analysis.

Didn't realise Hulk had found the right diagram ages ago . I don't think it's a good idea to use a 40amp breaker if they suggest 10. The 250v fuse or something is connected to the coil that switches the relay and you should leave it there.

I have the diagram for a different kiln but it looks pretty similar, mine is just a bit smaller. The website seems to be compressing it so I will find another upload. https://freeimage.host/i/JVcrpSa

I would just email/ring pottery crafts for the circuit diagram so you knows what goes where. A lot of uk kilns seem set up for a simple swap from single to three phase. You will need a much bigger breaker and wire going to the kiln for single phase but the internals should stay the same. Most of the three phase just use each leg as it's own 240v supply.