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High Bridge Pottery

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  • Location
    Stoke-on-Trent. England
  • Interests
    Rocks and fire

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  1. Didn't realise Hulk had found the right diagram ages ago . I don't think it's a good idea to use a 40amp breaker if they suggest 10. The 250v fuse or something is connected to the coil that switches the relay and you should leave it there.
  2. I have the diagram for a different kiln but it looks pretty similar, mine is just a bit smaller. The website seems to be compressing it so I will find another upload. https://freeimage.host/i/JVcrpSa
  3. I would just email/ring pottery crafts for the circuit diagram so you knows what goes where. A lot of uk kilns seem set up for a simple swap from single to three phase. You will need a much bigger breaker and wire going to the kiln for single phase but the internals should stay the same. Most of the three phase just use each leg as it's own 240v supply.
  4. There's a skip full of IFB for free. Now to work out how many I can fit in my car/garden.

    1. Chilly

      Chilly

      I had a load you could have had.  Essex tho'.  

    2. High Bridge Pottery

      High Bridge Pottery

      Thank you for the offer but it is a bit of a drive from here :D They are rebuilding a hydrogen kiln at work that has about 6 brick thick walls so there's plenty for me to sort through and find the good ones.

  5. No reason you can't put the water into the old glaze bucket to start with. I agree with sieving once unless you have a specific reason for doing that.
  6. I finally got around to doing a few glaze tests and brushed some on these mugs. Can't feel any texture through the glaze so pretty happy with the results as I didn't do any cleanup on the mold print. Need gum for brushing, seem to have lost mine. Need to go back and work on my clay, maybe. The clay is great except it still takes 1.5-2 hours to cast the larger mug and it likes to hang onto bubbles. Fires like a dream, bisque in 4 hours (20 min to 100c, hold for 20 min then 3h to 800c and hold for 20 min) and glaze in 5.5. I could go faster on the glaze but after 800 my kiln stops climbing at 250 c/h. At 1000 to 1100 it can only manage 80 c/h but that's ok for hitting 1100 cone03.
  7. The digital fire link seems a pretty good example of the difference a smaller mesh can make. The smaller the better in my opinion for melting silica. I remember back to my bubble experiments and removing quartz/silica additions and trying to source from feldspars/clays always had a better melt. Glazenerd did send me some super fine silica that is still on my list to test about 7 years later
  8. They seem to agree with my theory that it's about crystalline silica and being high expansion in crystal form and low expansion when fused/melted/dissolved. As a wise member once said "it depends" Maybe your glaze is full of unmelted silica because you got 200 instead of 325 mesh and firing hotter lowers the expansion of your glaze, maybe your glaze is all amorphous and going hotter lowers the expansion of the clay crazing the glaze or a mixture of lots of chemistry melty and crystaly combined happens and it all evens out in the end and firing hotter makes no difference.
  9. I would theorise that firing hotter probably lowers the expansion of the clay, possibly by dissolving more crystalline silica and could make a glaze more likely to craze. I'm not sure it's a good idea to relate the permanent shrinkage firing clay with coefficient of thermal expansion.
  10. I didn't think being damp would change anything that much but good to know it does
  11. Does the power go straight from the plug to these wires or is it coming from that silver box? Can you post a photo of inside the box? The wires zip-tied up look more suspicious than power going through the bricks to earth. I am pretty sure all UK homes go through an RCD and there's quite a few of these old Cromartie kilns about but I have never heard of brick conductivity being an issue.
  12. If you know the specific gravity you can work out how much dry glaze you have in the quart or gallon. First you divide the SG of the dry material by itself minus 1. A good estimate is 2.6 so 2.6/1.6 = 1.625 Now you multiply that by the SG of your glaze minus 1. Say your glaze is 1.6 then we would do 1.625 * 0.6 = 0.975 Finally we take 0.975 and divide it by your glazes SG. 0.975 / 1.6 = 0.609375 or 60.9375% dry matter. Then all you need to do is weigh a quart of glaze and multiply it by 0.609375 and you have the total dry weight of the glaze slip and can work out what x% will be in grams.
  13. I would be surprised if you made it to the other side of the curve but hard to know how much some sodium silicate is.
  14. I'm not convinced there's much evidence that 0.3:0.7 is the most durable ratio. I mean even in that ratio there's so many different fluxes included that there's too many variables for it to be a useful rule.
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