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phill

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    phillipschmidtpottery.com

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  • Location
    mn
  • Interests
    making mugs, throwing on my new treadle wheel! i know..., digging my own clay and processing it, honing favorite forms, selling pots!

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  1. Yeah, and I think you nailed it with, "most people who want one are happy to build their own." That's what I did! Hahahaha Thanks Neil for your input. Maybe I'll just have to see if anyone ends up asking me about mine. Thanks all! Your wisdom is much appreciated!
  2. Thank you! I think you're right, naming it a "Leach" wheel would probably get me in some sort of trouble. No, the layout doesn't have to be flipped to have the wheel spin the other direction. I can crank it counter or clockwise both with my left leg. I think the idea is that if you throw in a counter clockwise manner you'd probably want your right leg to be stable. Maybe less body stress? If you wanted it clockwise, you'd just want to build the wheel flipped like you said so your kick leg is your right leg. It would be interesting to make an all-metal treadle that you could unbolt to move through doors. Or at least if welded up make it less wide than any potential doorways. It sounds like you've been contemplating making one! Also thanks for your input, it is much appreciated.
  3. Yes, you are correct! There are some halfway decent plans out there, and one of the grandson's names is Simon Leach that you are talking about. He is having an Amish craftsman make them and they are beautiful, and they are also $2500 just for the kit, plus crating and shipping charges. I think he is out of PA though. What I've found is that although hardwood is beautiful, it is not necessary to make a nice, beautiful, strong, and well-functioning wheel. I guess that is where I was thinking there may be a possible market. I think Neil might be right about those who want to use one will probably just build it themselves or buy a hardwood one. Thank you so much for your input! This is helping me think through much more!
  4. Thank you for the concern! Sorry for the confusion, I listed this with the Leach name so folks would know the type of wheel I am talking about. I would not name it with their name. And I have modified their design to my own liking. Thanks for the input!
  5. Hi folks, it's been awhile. I've still been throwing pots and being a potter. Recently I made a leach style treadle wheel and I love it. It was made with less expensive materials, pine instead of hardwood, and a couple other decisions I made that kept cost down. I'm thinking I might be able to make a Leach style Treadle Wheel for about $1000, unfinished. Maybe $1200 painted. Do the wise sages of this ceramics board have any idea if there would be any sort of market for this? Here's my thought. I've always wanted one of these wheels, and my buddy came across some abandoned homemade versions that were all piecemeal and rusted. But I salvaged them and learned how to build the wheel, and it works really well. I finally have my dream wheel, and I didn't have to spend $2500 on it. Maybe there would be more treadlers if the wheel was more affordable? I'd love advice if you are in a helpful and loving spirit. Thanks all!
  6. phill

    Phillip Schmidt Pottery

    www.phillip-schmidt.com I make functional redux-fired pieces. I try to keep things simple, which is harder than it seems even with mud.
  7. do you want critique? pm me if you do
  8. phill

    american shino

    Thanks everyone! I just noticed this page...didn't know it existed with comments! Mregecko, this is a fireclay stoneware body from www.continentalclay.com. Fired in a hot cone 10 redux firing. (probably more like a cone 10.5).
  9. The flame pattern on this tile is remarkable.The texture on the clay surface works well. Your wadding marks tell a nice story. I do wish I could see more angles, how thick the piece is, and a closeup of the texture. It is difficult to see how large the tile is as the background information doesn't lend much for guessing. Nice tile!
  10. phill

    veiled cup

    Thanks Biglou for the critique! You seem to know a lot about Japanese culture and language. It was fun looking up those words and figuring out what you were talking about. Now I see why you wanted to see the inside of the cup and the bottom of the foot. The reflection on the cup was a great critique, something I need to consider even when taking photos on the fly like I did here. Having a background in photography would be helpful--I have none. About the cup-- I have borrowed the form of the yunomi from the Japanese, but I have no history with it and prefer to simply call it a cup, thus the name of the photo "Veiled Cup." You rightfully give me a little flak for borrowing on the traditional yunomi form, however because I make no claim to know anything about the tea ceremony, Japanese tea culture, or Japan in general, I am okay with taking the flak and moving on. The yunomi form has influenced me in a positive way in which I love making it, but other than that the cultural references are neutral as I live in N. America. So instead I make the yunomi form in a way of respect because I simply enjoy it. Therefore regarding my cup looking like it was made from a gaijin and my foot being unusually large, I am okay with this. I am a gaijin and proud of it. The glaze was very interesting on this cup, which is why I called it Veiled cup. The glaze is a clear glaze but became almost milky in some parts, which I tried to capture in the picture. This milky veiling really set off the cup's form nicely too. Thanks for the time and effort you put in to this critique Biglou! I appreciate it!
  11. phill

    tiltedcup

    Warren Mackenzie Grey. It's a cone 10 Redux glaze. Mac Grey Glaze: 50 Custer Feldspar 25 Whiting 25 Kaolin (I chose EPK)
  12. Relaxing while baby boy naps

  13. phill

    flute 1

    These are amazing! I like that you're using clay for things other than bowls. There is a freshness in that regard. I like the corn deco on the first flute the most, and the bottom flute's finger deco too. The mouth pieces (the red cones?) look awkward but perhaps this has to do with functionality. I can't tell if the beginning of the red is where the taper begins, especially on the bottom flute. Is there a defining edge where the taper meets the flute body? If so, maybe try defining it more, maybe via carving circle lines around the flute at that edge, or by painting with RIO.
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