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Bryan Johnson

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  1. What's your Mug?

    I've been using my own mug for the last few years.
  2. Porcelain

    Can I play too? I'd like a cone 6 translucent body with 12% shrinkage. So far NZ kaolin, silica, neph sy, and vee gum t are the whitest/most translucent, but about 18% shrinkage. Using POE, instead 0f Vee Gum T reduced shrinkage, and cost. Adding about to a fifty fifty mix of the above two a third of a body based on EPK, #6, Champion Ball Clay, neph sy, silica, and bentolite L yields a much lower shrinkage, and better feel.
  3. Clay Canes reduction

    I mostly reduce 5X5" or so blocks to earrings or pendants. There are limits. What ever you put in will take the shape of the barrel and then the die.
  4. Clay Canes reduction

    https://www.baileypottery.com/Bailey-Pottery/Product-Details/ SYSTEM-3-POWER-DRIVE-FRAME-W-OUT-BARREL-M5006 with a couple additional home made barrels, a square 6" OD and a round approximately 4" OD. I could use more power for some dies. The die in the picture I drew on a computer and had cut with a water jet.
  5. Clay Canes reduction

    That shape tessellates. Multiple extrusions fit together and can be assembled to a block bigger than the barrel. Excess trimmed off to make an even surface. The "filler" for the outer course can be a solid color. I think I had to shape/reduce the block to 5"X5" by tossing, as it was about 9". Then extruded to a 3"cylinder. A hexagon would work to create a block with multiples of this cane.
  6. Clay Canes reduction

    I go from a 5" square (rectangular prism), to a 3" circle (cylinder), to an 1 1/2 "earring or pendant. Tessellations do not need to be limited to squares.
  7. Clay Canes reduction

    I use an extruder for the more precisely patterned clay. It is not with out a learning and equipment curve. The closer that the barrel fits the the less of some types of distortion. The ends of the extrusion will favor the center (start)or the outside (end) of the pattern. For landscape patterns I toss 25 to 50 pound stacks of clay until it is 2- 4 times longer. The first couple pounds favor the outside, especially if the inner layers are a bit stiffer.
  8. mixing dry clay components

    Motorized. I found it on ebay.
  9. mixing dry clay components

    I use a barrel roller with an 8" auger added to the inside of the barrel. Holds about 330 #s. I mix about an hour. I double bag using a 1 mil inside and heavier outside. The outer bag stays clean and is easy to reuse Then put them in buckets or loose head barrels.
  10. colouring large batches of porcelain

    For that size batch I like using a stainless steel Peter Pugger VPM 9. How I prepare the colorant depends on what it is. Some I ball mill, some I blend, some just get put in the PP with water. Starting with a 25% batch makes a mix that can be added to a white base with 1# adding 1%. I like using a progression of colors and shades so that what is left in the mixer adds to what I want. Something like dark blue to light blue to blue green to brown to tan, maybe clean it out and then yellows to orange. I run the clay through twice to get the clay in the nozzle mixed in. The vpm 9 leaves about 8#s in the nozzle, about half of which can be extruded before it is mixed with the new color. I find the density of de-aired clay much better for polished work. This might be some what dependent on the clay.
  11. Soldner Mixer Drum Repair

    Having a sealed surface made no difference in mixing. Cleanup might be a tad harder as not as much clay peeled off of the walls and floor. The concrete seems to be stable, with no cracks, old or new.
  12. Soldner Mixer Drum Repair

    The reason that I had low vis epoxy was because of some boat repairs that I had been doing. The epoxy retailer said ( after I already had it) that lo vis had been developed for concrete repair. The kevlar I found on ebay in a 1' wide strip. I only had to make one 1' cut. Cutting kevlar is a real pain! The finish top coats were thickened with kaoln, thanks to wikipedia. The epoxy barrier paint's description makes it sound like they used kaolin for the thickener as well. Sanding kevlar mainly makes fuzzy lumps. A big sharp chisel will take off errant threads and bumps.
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