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  1. I've searched online, but can't seem to get a straight answer on how to fettle. Specifically, I'm trying to take off some of the glaze that may be too thick in areas. I've been using my fingers to smooth out the drips. Also, do you need to smooth out every little pinhole of dry glaze before I glaze fire? I typically dip in one color, then dip in a different color. Sometime little "pinholes" pop up... probably where it's too thick. Thanks everyone... I love the help!!
  2. I'm interested in purchasing a grinder for the bottom of my pots. Do I get a side grinder, or is there something out there that lies flat that I can just hold my pot over? I'd like to make the bottom very smooth so they don't scratch a glass table. Thanks for any advice... Happy Thanksgiving!
  3. I've been glaze firing to cone 6 with a 17 minute hold at the highest temp. I have been turning of the vent (of my Skutt with KilnMaster) after the 17 min hold. Should I leave the vent on until it cools down to 100 degrees? I was thinking that by turning of the vent it would slow down the cooling. I like my results, but it takes SO long to cool down with out the vent on. Thanks for your help!! Margie
  4. Thanks to everyone for your help on my pinholes in my pottery. I've vacuumed my kiln and rinsed by bisqueware. I have a new load being fired tomorrow, we will see if that makes a difference. I bisque to cone 04, and fire to cone 6. With my 17 min hold, my cone 7 bends halfway down. Its the same batch of glaze that I've been using all along. It used to only pinhole sometimes, now that specific glaze pinholes consistently. Perhaps I should make alot more... so I can dip quickly vs. pour over my pots. Perhaps I will get a thinner application that way. Thanks!!
  5. One of my favorite cone 7 glazes is consistently getting pinholes. I hold for 17 min at the highest temp. I tried a little longer and shorter hold, but that doesn't make a difference. I've tried to apply a very thin coat, but still pinholes. Also, I turn off the vent after it hits the final temp... to slow down cooling. Does that do anything, or am I just wasting time waiting to turn off the vent? I use a Skutt Kilnmaster without any special schedule other than the the hold. I would LOVE and words of wisdom!! Thanks a bunch!!------- Margie
  6. I have a Skutt with a kiln master controller. I've been firing to cone 6, but my cone (which I stick on my bottom shelf) is not bending to the correct angle. I think my glazes are not firing to their full potential. I'd like to make the kiln hold at the highest temp, but not sure how long. I read somewhere 20 min, but that seems like a long time. I have a bunch of test tiles and don't want to waste them... Thanks a bunch! Margie
  7. I am SO thankful for this website and everyone who "sets me straight"! I'm in my studio now, typing with my respirator with a quick question... I'm mixing "Mike's Clear" from a forum awhile ago (thanks to "oldlady") I never thought of NOT sieving for my test tiles. Great time saver. My question is, do I have to let the glaze sit overnight before dipping test tiles? I've read that the glaze has to sit for hours after mixing... Thanks!!
  8. Has anyone out there thickened a glaze for glazetrailing? I'm making my own cone 6 glazes and want to glazetrail designs. I've tried sliptrailing and I'm not a fan (I gave it a good try though!!) Can I just add a thickening agent (perhaps Veegum)? I know I can use a store bought one like Stroke & Coat, but I prefer to make my own, then its easy to make more Thanks!!
  9. So... I've mixed 3 different 100g batches of clear, added water and sieved. I want to add different percentages of Mason stains and try out some test tiles. What is my next step? Let's say I'm adding 5 and 10% of orange stain, I don't want to use my entire 100g batch for 5% of stain. Do I weigh my wet clear and add the stain to that? If I have 100g of dry clear I could take out and weigh a certain amt but I'm afraid I won't get all of the dry ingredients blended well enough if my sample. I've read about taking some out and placing in cups and adding different percents of stains. I guess I'm just confused about how much wet vs. dry and how much stain. For example, "10% of the stain" would be .1 of my 100g batch, but i don't want to use the whole batch at once. Did this make any sense? I think I just confused myself!! I have a good digital scale, I just need some guidance. Thanks in advance----Margie
  10. I'm trying to find a recipe for cone 6 colored glazes that I can put in a squeeze bottle (that won't drip down when fired). Basically, I'm dipping the entire pot in a glaze, then I want to make designs with glazes from the squeeze bottle. I'd like the "squiggles" or "circles" to stay put. I'd love bright colors, like yellows, greens, oranges... Is there a base glaze that I can simply change the mason stain? I have a ton of test tiles with some bright colors, but they seem to work best when dipped. I've read about Vee Gum, does that help to thicken it? I would love any words of wisdom! ---Thanks--Margie
  11. Hi... I have a few batches of 4 gallon buckets of glazes that I made. I (obviously) added to water to get to where they are now. I think that they are all slightly too thick. At this point do I continue to add water or switch to an Epsom salt solution like I saw on a John Britt video. I used the finger test and a hydrometer (which read 1850). I'm anxious to start dipping my cone 6 glazes, but don't want to ruin my glazes. Thanks for any "words of wisdom". This is my first attempt at making and using my own glazes... SO much fun!!---- Margie
  12. Hey there... I'm trying to be more accurate than dipping my finger in the glaze to determine thickness. I just bought a hydrometer and reading online says all different ranges are appropriate. I've mixed 3 different 4 gallon buckets and I think they are too thick. Two of them are Shatz (glossy black and ketchup red) and the other is Jon and Ron's Waterfall glaze. (If that info helps at all...) Thanks... I can't wait to start dipping!!---Margie
  13. I'm playing with stains to add to my slip for slip trailing on my greenware. I've slaked my clay and have a bucket of slip that I have sieved and want to add Mason stains. How do I figure out the stain to slip ratio? Is it just a visual thing? Does the final color (after bisqued) look similar to the original trailed color? Thanks in advance for any help!! Margie
  14. Making colored slip

    Thanks to everyone for their great responses!! Do you suggest adding mason stains vs copper carbonate/cobalt carbonate? I'm just asking because I own these already...
  15. Making colored slip

    Dear Marge, I have gone to great lengths to make slip using Robin Hopper's recipe. People in my old studio laughed that I was taking dry ingredients and making slip in this manner. It was, however, great slip and stuck to everything. I think if you google his slip recipe you should be able to find it on-line or at the very least in one of his books. Now however, what I do is take some of either my reclaimed clay or cut off slices of the clay body I am using, dry it throughly, put it in a bucket with some water and let it slake. You don't want to add too much water but just enough to really cover the dried slices. After a few days of slaking, I then take a hand held mixer or you could use a blender and simply mix it up to the consistency I want. I try to really make sure if I am adding Mason stains that I mix these really well so no spots or speckles come through in the initial bisque firing. This is quick and easy and serves all my purposes. I store the slip and simply use it as required. For example, I will take some out of the storage container, mix it up again well and add my unique colorants bit by bit as needed. Works great for me. I am sure it would work equally well in a slip trailer but you may need to water it down to the right consistency. Not so watery that it runs but not so thick that it clogs the end of your bulb or bottle. Good luck. I love working with slips. Nelly Thanks to everyone for their great responses!! I'm going to start slip trailing immediately! Do you guys suggest adding mason stains over chemicals like cobalt carbonate or copper carbonate? Margie