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Marge

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  1. Oops yes the 10 mason stain is the last ingredient in the grey recipe. Supposed to be under the silica. Thanks!
  2. Thanks everyone for your helpful thoughts. The picture is the finished product... not pre-firing. I have a new load going in tomorrow which I dipped the second layer immediately after the first. @neilestrick here are the 2 recipes... please let me know if anything jumps out at you. Thanks again!!!! White Grey 18 Gerstley Borate 24 Neph Sy 27 Neph Sy 11 Dolomite 12 EPK 12 Gerstley 8 Whiting 4 Whiting 15 Talc 2 Zinc Oxide 9 Silica 7 EPK 9 Zircopax 40 Silica 10 Mason Stain
  3. I will give all of your ideas a try! My entire pot is dipped in a glossy white glaze and the lip is dipped in a different base glaze with a mason stain. Grey is such a difficult color to produce and unfortunately my best seller. Thanks again
  4. Thanks Min... I think (unfortunately) the 2 glazes just don't like each other. Although it fires beautifully with a different mason stain (2%) less. Could 2 different mason stains react differently on the pot... or do you suggest trying 8% of the "troublesome" stain vs 10% in my 5 gallon pail? Does that make any sense?
  5. Hi there... I've been firing my pots to cone 6 with an 008 hold on my Skutt kiln for years. I've introduced a new glaze combo to my repertoire a few months ago. I dip the entire pot in my white glaze, then dip the lip in my grey glaze. Approx 50% of the time the grey glaze slips off of the pot in areas. I dip the second layer after the first layer is dry to the touch (a few hours). Some of the pots turn out fine and some with "slipping" problems in the same load. The grey recipe contains: Neph Sy, Dolomite, Gerstley Borate, Whiting, Zinc oxide, EPK, Flint, and Mason stain Could it be my hold in my firing? I've tried many, many other grey recipes and they don't turn out grey. I'm inserting pictures... you can see the problems are usually on the outside of the bowl and all different areas of my kiln. Perhaps its the interaction on my white glaze (which I'm not eager to change). Thanks for everything!!--- Margie
  6. Thank you so much. I have a show Wednesday night. I am not attached to the pots that are going in my last glaze firing, but would you suggest trying less of a hold? Right now I have an eight minute hold. I just dipped the second layer while the first layer was still slightly wet.
  7. No, I will with my next glaze firing. If it’s hitting the correct temp 2215 degrees, could it still be incorrect.? Would that mean the my Skutt readout would be incorrect? Thx!
  8. I have used a (grey) glaze for awhile and the last 2 firings (cone 6) it has dripped off of my pottery. It is the overlapped layer on the lip of my pots. The first layer dried overnight prior to dipping in the second (grey) layer to the lip. I make my own glazes and they have always worked well for me. The temp and amt of hours that my kiln is firing has always been approx the same. Perhaps an extra 5 minutes to hit the temp lately. I hate to switch the elements if I don't have to. One other glaze has recently slipped off and pooled on my kiln shelves as well. (That situation was my first color... the color on the lip stayed put). This all may be confusing, but thanks for trying to follow it! Thanks! Margie
  9. It’s definitely the hue that is too yellow for me. I’m going to add some RIO to it... 1-2%. Do I take 100g of wet glaze and add 1-2 g of dry iron for my test tile. I assume wet doesn’t calculate exactly to dry like that... or should I add water to the iron then weigh that first? Thanks!!
  10. Is there anything I can try to add to my existing glaze? I hate to get rid of the glaze that I have. (anything would be better than the bright color that it is now) Thanks!
  11. Hi there! I made a cone 6 Butterscotch Yellow Glaze. It is too bright of a yellow, I'd like to make it a little "softer". I will include the recipe... I'm used to mixing/measuring the dry ingredients and adding water. How would I add a certain percentage of a chemical to my wet glaze? Would I weigh a certain amt of the wet glaze and add a percentage of dry? Thanks a bunch! I have a few gallons of it. --Margie-- Frit 3134 20 Dolomite 20 Spodumene 20 Ball Clay 20 Silica 20 Titanium Dioxide 10 Rutile 6
  12. Thanks so much for your responses. JohnnyK your pots are beautiful! I understand your description, but not the technique. Are you dipping the pots so the interior is saturated with glaze? Or pouring the glaze in and out, or brushing? I make my glazes, so haven't tried the beautiful Amaco colors. My glazes do layer nicely, I'm just bored with my final outcome. I love the center color and the other colors flowing towards the center. I only dip/pour my glazes. Thanks again!
  13. I'm using a Gleico clay trap under my sink in my studio. Is there a more substantial one that you recommend? Thanks!
  14. I found this picture on the Amaco website and can't figure how to get this look. It doesn't necessarily like drips. Perhaps the glaze is poured along the lip while the bowl is turning on a wheel? I don't think it would work to turn the bowl upside down and dip... that would create an air bubble. It looks like the white glaze is poured in first with the other colors following along the edge...? I see that the rim must be waxed to show the clay, but it's the inside design I'm trying to recreate. Any words of advice would help, thanks!!
  15. I've been reading past posts regarding the safety of using Barium Carbonate in a glaze. I understand the dangers to the potter while making the glaze, I use every precaution possible. Should I feel comfortable using it in mugs and dinnerware? My recipe calls for 9%... Thanks...
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