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About Babs

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  1. or, you could think ahead:-\ and have a container beside your wheel at start of throwing. up and walk and stretch is a good practice to fit into your work at wheel however.
  2. think I read s.where on this forum where someone used scrap glaze on last pull of pot on wheel, I.e.dipped hands in and litfed/shaped clay in usual way
  3. yes, I have established the basic shape with fingers, then finish the bellying with CD from top to bottom, last touch of rim and that's it. this way I know the rim can handle the expansion of the interior.
  4. I use a CD as a rib for bowls but have always worked from top down when doing the shaping, any thoughts on this?
  5. 23167946_10155274396466374_4916245541983178930_n.jpg

    HI Andrea, lovely pots, I have never tried spraying but you have had quite a success here. Well Done! Gold Lustre! wow, so three firings? Is the lustre a reduced firing?
  6. sorta one step on from apple cooker, with Min on the one pot must be versatile in use to make it in my kitchen, same technique with bit extra, a candle stick holder, made by then opening centre core of clay , pulling up, turning down for flat rim, doing same to outer rim, attaching a little handle , wee Willie winkie style.
  7. PQotW: Week 34

    1:1 2: Em3 3: 1 4: 2 where is j po ts?
  8. repairing grenware?

    did you take notes you can depoit$ straight into my bank, ac no 0000 0000 0000 just like my bank balance after visiting pottery suplies:--)))))) glad it worked for you, hope you don't to use it often:-)
  9. think get better results with a certain percentage of clay in glaze, from memory, 20% but test. a thicker glaze soln. is advised because the porosity of non fired clay greater than bisque , thicker less water therefore adequate glaze deposited on pot with less shrinkage is my logic today
  10. Zinc in glazes

    some folks take zinc daily for health reasons, your pots may be a cheaper option:-)))) boosts immune systems, maybe
  11. Glaze Application Questions.

    nope:-)))) think there are threads here discussing cobalt. If firing glaze to maturity, and not drinking straight lemon juice from it daily, I think cobalt is fine, bu stand to be corrected. do a search in the forums. re glazing, I glaze inside first, if glaze fiddly, you can wax the rim if already glazed, then dip the outside of vessel. finger marks deal with immediately by dipping finger I glaze and applying to spot, as spot is still damp it wont grab a lot of glaze to make a lump. tong marks I just rub a bit when dry, jf big tong marks I'd do as for finger marks. that all being said some glazes are pernickity. as bciske said keep doing it, you'll develop a deftness. youtube glazing mugs has some insight into this but doing it better, inside first so don't mar the outside surface.
  12. Zinc in glazes

    Because of its solubility, don't drain the water off the top of our glaze bucket as a way of thickening Zinc containing glazes. Not a good practice anyway, I guess. But as said above, not likely to have strong acid Glazes anyway.
  13. Thrown large

    Compressing after each pull can get the rim back to centered and even in thickness, also stops any tendency to cracks there. Some folk use a piece of chamois to smooth the rim as a finisher, some people use a bit of plastic, I place the rim between my first and second finger and use the skin where my fingers meet my hand to do the last smoothing and compressing .AND yes it takes time to just learn to do these things with a definite action, he who hesitates ends with a wonky rim.... Leaving a lot more clay than you expect at the rim of your pot is also on the learning curve. have fun. And then there are those who deliberately make pots with amazingly attractive "wonky" rims.
  14. Bloaty Mc-Bloatface

    I'd post this on the equipment and repair where the kiln whizzes will see it faster.
  15. Bloaty Mc-Bloatface

    I put hold at end of bisque to provide uniformity of heat throughout kiln as my kiln has colder areas and I pack pretty densely. yeh to placing cone packs on various shelves