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Rockhopper

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  1. A piston-type air compressor is very much like a car engine, except backwards. With a compressor, instead of burning fuel to push the pistons and turn engine, an electric motor turns the 'engine' and the pistons push air into the tank. In a car, if oil seeps past the rings that seal pistons, it gets burned along with the gas & air coming in from the fuel injector (or carburetor). In a compressor, if oil gets past those rings, it gets pushed into the tank with the air, and can eventually find its way into the paint or glaze you're spraying.
  2. Thanks for the clarification Bill. Guess that's what I get for trusting the store clerk's explanation of what the 'S' in SCFM stands for. So for a given PSI, a higher SCFM rating will provide more air than a lower one, but still not necessarily the volume that I am expecting it to provide .... and, when the label on a portable compressor says "2.6 SCFM delivered at 90 PSI", it is probably only going to give me that 2.6 CFM for relatively short bursts ? Guess it's a good thing I'm only using mine for nail guns, and adding air to a tire now & then.
  3. When selecting a compressor, be sure to look at the SCFM (Sustained Cubic Feet per Minute) rating of both the compressor and the tool(s) you plan to use with it. The only spraying I've done, other than from a can, has been with an airless sprayer, so have no idea what the CFM requirements are for HVLP or other air sprayers - but this is a very important detail with other types of air-powered tools. For example: If you're using a tool that requires 4 CFM at a certain pressure, and your compressor will only deliver 2.5 CFM at that pressure, your tool is not going to work properly - if at all.
  4. A wider view showing the entire kiln would probably be helpful, but judging from the wiring boxes, lack of insulators where the wires go through the brick, and individual bands with no 'jacket' around the outside, I'm guessing it's home-made - or, at-least, home 're-built'. Also a guess, based on the screws and other unpainted parts being 'bright & shiny" - it looks like that kiln-sitter has never been used. My guess is whomever built the kiln intended to install the sitter, but something (or someone) prompted them to abandon the project before they completed it. Based on the apparent home-made origin, and the lack of information you have about it, I would strongly recommend not plugging it in again until you're able to have the elements tested to determine how much current it draws, and verify that all of the wires - and attached plug - are of appropriate size and type.
  5. Original post was nearly two years ago. Looks like the domain has expired, and/or may have been taken over by 'squatters'. Not sure if this is the same article - but here's one by the same author, on the same topic, that's still available: https://ceramicartsnetwork.org/ceramics-monthly/ceramic-art-and-artists/ceramic-artists/techno-file-studio-dust/#
  6. Have never worked with that particular clay - but you might want to start with higher bisque-fire. The Standard ^6 clays I have worked with generally recommend ^04 bisque.
  7. Hmmm... If I wind up getting the 3" brick, and new shelves, I'll have to look at half shelves as an option. Of course, that also means I would need to get some more posts, since it takes more for two half-shelves than for one full shelf.
  8. At-least with the kilns I'm looking at (L&L e18T / e18T-3, Paragon TnF82 / TnF82-3, & Skutt KM822 / KM822-3), they seem to keep the outer dimension the same, rather than the inner. I'm guessing this is so they can use the same outer jacket, and lid-band regardless whether 2-1/2" or 3" bricks are used.
  9. Was hoping to use my current octagon shelves. They would work OK with 2-1/2" brick, at 17-1/2" inside measure - but with 16-1/2" ID for the 3" brick, I would probably have to get new shelves. They were labeled as 15-inch, but actually measure closer to 15-1/2". I'm thinking in order to have comfortable finger room for loading/unloading, I would want an inch all around - which would mean a 14-1/2" flat-to-flat octagon if I go with the 3" brick. That's why I was wondering what the 'payback' time would be for the energy savings of the 3" to offset the increased cost. And, since my original post, I've realized that if I go with the 3", I would have to factor in the cost of new shelves, in addition to the higher price of the kiln itself.
  10. I am shopping for a new (or, at-least new to me) kiln. My JW Good manual kiln was severely damaged when a large walnut tree fell on my garage. On the plus side, I get a new garage - and a new kiln. On the down side, it will probably be at-last 3 months before the new garage is finished and I can fire anything. I'm considering a brand-new kiln, as I'm finding it hard to find decent used ones that are offered at prices far enough below the new to make it worth buying used. I'm looking for a relatively small ^8-^10-rated kiln, that I plan to fire at ^6. Something in the 3 cu.ft. range - such as the Skutt KM-822. It looks like the 3" brick isn't much more expensive than 2-1/2" ($75 more on the Skutt), so not really a big factor cost-wise - but I do wonder how long it would take to recover that $75 in reduced electricity cost - when I'm currently only firing 4-5x/year. I saw a recent comment from @neilestrick in another thread, that says in part "Thinner brick use slightly more electricity, but they cool faster.... L&L's most powerful kilns, the JH crystalline series, are rated for cone 12, but are built with 2.5" brick. The thinner brick allow for faster cooling times, and more precise temperature control." - which sounds as though the 2.5" may actually be better (or maybe it's just a non-issue with the volume I fire). The other aspect of the brick thickness I'm looking at is interior dimensions: Not so much in terms of capacity - but with regard to 'open space'. Does the amount of space between edge of shelf and brick have any effect on firing ? Assuming I'm using a 15" shelf, centered in the kiln, we're talking about 1.5" all around vs 1". The extra 1/2 inch of finger space between shelf and brick when loading/unloading might be nice - but would it possibly make any difference in even distribution of heat within the kiln ?
  11. Marie - You might get more responses if you change your post title to "Help needed with white glaze recipe" or "White Glaze - What ingredient am I missing?" (or something else of your choosing, that tells folks what your post is about. There are a lot of folks here with a lot of knowledge, and they're willing to help - but may not take time to read if they can't tell what your post is about without opening it.
  12. It's going to depend some on the clay body - but I've gotten a similar finish with a red iron oxide wash, on brown clay (Standard 112). No glaze on the outside - just a lot of RIO.
  13. I don't have an answer for you - but if you change your title from "Natalieatperth" to "Where to by Mason Stains in Australia" (or something similar) you'll probably get more responses.
  14. Thank you all for the input... Sounds like 1/3 of the overall width, or 1/2 the diameter of the mug cylinder, is the base-line - with variations from there for style/form. I think the main thing I need to work on is consistency. I've started measuring as I throw, so the mugs are pretty consistent - maybe a short piece of tubing between the mug and handle as I'm attaching the bottom will help me get the handles more uniform. While I don't think any of these four are terrible - I definitely think the one on the light background, and the dark blue/gray one look like they 'fit' the mug better than the other two.
  15. Realizing there is no single "right answer", and know that the most obvious one is "it depends..." I'm going to ask anyway: How do you determine the size of the handle on a mug ? I know handles come in lots of shapes & styles. I've seen some mugs recently with a handle that looks like a napkin ring glued to the mug, barely big enough to stick one finger through - but in the most basic, traditional form, a handle is roughly a "C" shape, with the ends attached to the mug. (The "C" is often skewed to look more like half of a heart, or a bass-clef symbol - but it's still basically a "C".) I'm looking for input based on that 'traditional' form. Is there a rule-of-thumb that you go by - or do you just attach the top end, bend it around, and say "hmm... that looks about right" ? If you measure how far the handle sticks out from the mug - how does that compare with the diameter of the mug itself ?
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