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JohnnyK

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About JohnnyK

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    Advanced member

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Citrus Heights, CA
  • Interests
    Ceramics, glazing techniques, photography, farming, reading all kinds of stuff but primarily thrillers

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  1. How many grenades do you plan on making? If you look to slip cast and carve, you will probably have a problem with the wall thickness not being thick enough to carve. You might be better off hand building and sculpting the grenades, or throwing and carving the bodies and adding the other pieces...
  2. JohnnyK

    yarn bowl dilemma

    I just got an order for a yarn bowl and went to Etsy to see what they were. In each of what I saw, the yarn channel was pretty much vertical, which is the way I'm going to go. In the case of what you are making, if you insist on the long, horizontal yarn channel, in the areas where you have clay chips, I would leave the clay intact for about 1/8", then carefully grind it out after the final firing with a Dremel tool with a carbide bit. I think you would be better served by going to a vertical yarn channel... JohnnyK
  3. Welcome to the forums, J. No need to apologize for your question. we've all been there at one point in our lives... I think one of the great things about plaster is that the hardening of the material is a chemical reaction, not a "drying" function. The plaster will absorb moisture without breaking down and dissolving. You should be able to soak the mould which, in turn, will help with the release of the plasticine which is not absorbent. After the mould is wet, you might try using sharp pointed tools like dental picks to pull out the plasticine. Marks made by the picks should be minor and relatively easy to repair. JohnnyK
  4. JohnnyK

    pottery studio in home

    I use an old painted door for a smooth table...very easy to keep clean. I do my wedging on a 2'x2' piece of birch plywood. If I do anything with slabs, I have a couple of different size sheets of canvas that are easily cleaned after I'm done with the piece, and if I have to suck some moisture from small quantities of clay, I use some of my plaster bats. JohnnyK
  5. If these are all greenware, you can still round the rims by taking a wet sponge or chamois or even fine sandpaper to them. Just be careful with the handling of the pieces since they are very fragile. The handles do need some refinement as some of what you show are a little rough. I'm guessing that you are pulling them. What's the possibility of extruding them since you have to make so many? You can pre-form them and store them in a damp box until you need them... Keep up the good work and great effort! JohnnyK
  6. This thread has been around for awhile and I'd like to add my 3 cents... I got my CI-MP wheel from a friend who found it in a barn on a property he had just purchased and, knowing that I had just gotten into pottery making, offered to "loan" it to me on what turned out to be permanent basis. It was a mess, covered in dirt and spider webs (with a few Black Widows thrown in), but it ran, so I cleaned it up. That was about 8 years ago. When I got it there was no splash pan and he said there wasn't any other parts in the barn. Sooo, being mechanically adept, I designed and fabricated my own pan using the bottom of a plastic trash can. Since the wheel base was designed to get wet (it has a drain hole and plug), I made a device that would serve the purpose. Here is a picture of the pan installed. You can go to my gallery and see additional pix in the album. Last year I got a Giffen Grip and made a riser out of another trash bucket, using the top this time. For those interested, I can provide additional info and answer any questions regarding the fabrication. JohnnyK
  7. JohnnyK

    JohnnyK

    This album is starting out as a collection of Glaze FX, but will probably morph into something more expansive over time...
  8. JohnnyK

    Plaster Bats? Need Advice.

    Bats make it easier for me to remove my pots and bowls from the wheelhead without distorting them. In my case it's because I made a custom splash pan for my CI wheel which is a just little higher than usual and it is difficult to easily slide my pieces onto a ware board. The bats that I use are non-porous, so I just cut the piece loose, lift the bat off the wheelhead, and slide the pot off the bat onto the ware board without distortion. If I use a plaster bat, I can cut the piece loose and set the bat aside and let the piece dry a little before moving it to a ware board... JohnnyK
  9. JohnnyK

    help needed re slip casting

    Hi Julia... Were the molds dry before you poured the slip? The growing white mold may be an indication that the molds are too wet for casting. You can probably wipe the mold off the molds and treat them with bleach to reduce the recurrence in the future, but the molds have to be dry before casting. Can you send pix? JohnnyK
  10. JohnnyK

    Adding Luster

    Hi Andrea, It's just Saturday AM here in Northern Calif...have the whole weekend to look forward too You might try an automotive pinstriping brush. They are designed to load up and distribute paint efficiently and may be just the thing to fill your need here. JohnnyK
  11. This is a tool I made from a piece of 5/16" brake line that works very well on leather hard clay. It can be made with a hacksaw, round file, pliers and a vise. Any little nubs created during your carving can be brushed off or wiped off when dry. Hope this helps... JohnnyK
  12. A pile of pots is in the kiln for a bisque firing...managed to fill the kiln to within 1" of the top...half of it belongs to a couple of friends. Will open in the AM

    1. Benzine

      Benzine

      Waste not...

    2. glazenerd

      glazenerd

      Have been enjoying your most recent works. Visually appealing.

  13. JohnnyK

    Single fire vs Bisque and Glaze

    Try it and find out. A few of the members here skip the bisque step and go straight to glaze. As far as exploding is concerned, if the test tiles are bone dry before the glaze process, you shouldn't have a problem, otherwise you may be looking at a bunch of glazed shards. If they are not bone dry, you might run an appropriate preheat segment in your firing program... JohnnyK
  14. Farming season is over...I get to spend more time in the studio!

    1. Denice

      Denice

      Thanks for reminding me I just got home from vacations and need to check my tomatoes.   Denice

  15. JohnnyK

    Flaking burnished surface

    I've burnished pots in the stage just beyond leather hard, while they are still damp, with great results. I've also tried burnishing with oil when the pot is close to bone dry with less than good results. I've used polished polishing stones as well as soft plastic bags with different results. You might check out Summi von Dassow's books and videos. Reading, watching, testing and practicing are the best ways to learn your craft! JohnnyK
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