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JohnnyK

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About JohnnyK

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    Advanced member

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Citrus Heights, CA
  • Interests
    Ceramics, glazing techniques, photography, farming, reading all kinds of stuff but primarily thrillers

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  1. JohnnyK

    Wheel Quit Working

    Can you provide photos of the piece? If you can't get the part from Kemper, you have 2 choices: have the part remade by someone handy enough to do it or try a foot pedal from a different manufacturer... JohnnyK
  2. If you use Denice's method, you might make the defects a little larger by gouging them to make them deeper and wetting the area before you add the new plaster. Also keep in mind that the plaster patching material hardens chemically. It "sets-up" to harden and eventually will dry. You should also use the same plaster that your molds are made of. Give it a shot and if it doesn't work, make new molds. JohnnyK
  3. OK, Kelsayy, I used to own the same Cress as you and have a copy of the old manual and fired it manually a couple of times and found it difficult, at best, to do an accurate firing for my taste, so I invested in a digital kiln controller. Problems solved! You could put the same type of plug on each kiln and use the controller for both (at different times, obviously). You would just have to develop firing schedules for each of the kilns for accuracy, but the controller would eliminate the problems you may have in firing each kiln. The main thing you would have to remember is to turn the control knobs to maximum, put an appropriate cone (^10) in the kiln sitter (I actually use a high tensile concrete screw in the sitter), press the button in the sitter and set the timer at maximum EACH time you use the kiln and all will be well... JohnnyK
  4. JohnnyK

    Metal mold and clay casts

    You might try spraying the mold with WD40 as a mold release. You might also try using a fan over the pots to help dry and shrink them a little faster than what you get now. Keep an eye on the drying process so they don't dry too much and possibly crack... JohnnyK
  5. Hi Nancy, Are you trying to do the pinching method or the foot-ring method? With the pinching method, instead of a triangle, you would have to squeeze a square and then pinch the corners. I would pinch opposite corners first and then do the same with the remaining corners until you bring the bottom together. I think the footring method is easier. You just have to be accurate with your layout of the 4 feet. you would form your pot with a bottom thick enough to trim a footring to the height that you desire or do a flat-bottomed pot and add a footring of the desired height, layout the 4 feet and carve away what you don't want. I've used the first footring method for making my berry bowls. The primary reason for doing three footed pots is for stability. Tripods are a lot more stable than quadpods. Hope this helps... JohnnyK
  6. JohnnyK

    Kiln Problem Help

    Does the kiln have a timer that may have shut it off?
  7. Opening the veggie stand today. Will also be selling pottery...

    1. glazenerd

      glazenerd

      Stopped at a road side stand yesterday in search of sweet corn..

  8. JohnnyK

    CONDITION OF BRENT C WHEEL HEAD

    The wheel head can be cleaned easily as Mark said, but if it is pitted, you might take it to a local machine shop and have them clean it up on a lathe rather that buying a new head. Since the bat pins are steel and the head is aluminum, it should be relatively easy to remove them, again as Mark said, using a penetrating oil and vice-grips if necessary...Hope all works out for you! JohhnyK
  9. JohnnyK

    help with aesthetic for pottery

    Welcome to the Forums, bright... Considering that I work in ^6 stoneware, if I were going to try to achieve what you are going for, I would find a clay that is heavily grogged and in the dark range of color. Then I would work on the devices and materials that would provide some of the textures displayed here (like screen materials, texture rollers, etc.). Then, as Gabby says, since you are working with commercial glazes, I would look at the variety of Amaco glazes available, especially Potters Choice, which give the reduction look in an oxidation atmosphere. Callie has good input here as well... Good luck with your journey! JohnnyK
  10. Hmmmm...I've already built a manual extruder...This gets me thinking of a way to adapt the motor and screw drive from a discarded trash-masher hooked up to a foot pedal switch which would leave both hands free... JohnnyK
  11. Getting ready to open the vegetable stand in a couple of weeks...the farm is producing well. Just waiting for the tomatoes to ripen. it's a good opportunity to sell my pottery, too!

    1. Denice

      Denice

      Wished I lived close by so I could shop at your stand.  I swear a lot of the stands around here buy their tomatoes from the grocery store and doubles the price.  They don't look like homegrown tomatoes or taste like home grown ones.   Potter. 

    2. yappystudent

      yappystudent

      I used to live in Citrus Heights, in the second apartment complex behind Sunrise Mall! I miss central valley produce but not the summer temps. 

  12. JohnnyK

    Problem with producing prototype

    Welcome to the Forums, Alice. What is it that you are trying to make (or is it a secret?) Do you have drawings that you'd like to show us? What kind of fruit are we talking about...a grape or a watermelon? Any additional info would help us help you JohnnyK
  13. JohnnyK

    Thoughts on the Cress FX-23 P

    What Callie said...I have no intention to go to ^10, so the kiln is a good fit for me. I know it will go to ^8 because when I first fired it with my new digital controller before I had it dialed in, the #7 witness cone was flat as a pancake at the end of the firing! JohnnyK
  14. Try clear 5 minute epoxy...
  15. What kind of piece is it and where is the break? Photos always help... You might try a wet paste made from a mixture of dry powdered clay (same as the clay body of the piece) and distilled white vinegar. paint both sides of the joint with vinegar, then paint one side with the paste and join the pieces. Sand the joint smooth when completely dry. I've never used "spooze" before and wonder what would happen to the joint when the sugar burns out in firing. JohnnyK
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