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About JohnnyK

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    Advanced member

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  • Gender
  • Location
    Citrus Heights, CA
  • Interests
    Ceramics, glazing techniques, photography, farming, reading all kinds of stuff but primarily thrillers

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  1. OK… Take a couple of 1x4s and nail them to the sides and the front of your table top, calculate the volume, mix a little more plaster than your calculation and pour it into the frame. then take a stiff straight edge, and skim the top level and let it set up. Voila...you have a wedging table.
  2. I started using clear acrylic spray paint on my Raku pieces 1 1/2 years ago with great success. I tried waxing a horsehair raku pot as an experiment and found that the process yellowed the pottery but also wiped away some of the burned areas of the horsehair. I sprayed a couple of pieces with clear matte acrylic and the white areas darkened a little but the acrylic really set the horsehair burns...
  3. A couple of things to follow up here...you are putting it in a plastic 5 gal bucket that has water in it but, after you slam the bag of clay on the concrete, check it for holes before you put it in the bucket. Then put it in the bucket and fill the bucket with water to just above the block of clay, but below the opening in the bag. If the bag has ANY holes it, water WILL get into the bag and saturate the clay more than you want. Leave it in the bucket of water for a day or 2 and you should be ready for wedging...I save empty and water tested bags just for this purpose.
  4. There should be some kind of specification plate on the kiln which will tell you what the make, model, operating input voltage and temp rating of the kiln is. Find that and you'll have a starting point for your exploration into your problem... JohnnyK
  5. JohnnyK


    This album is starting out as a collection of Glaze FX, but will probably morph into something more expansive over time...
  6. Just shipped my first commissioned Horsehair Raku jar with very positive review...

    1. glazenerd
    2. oldlady


      it WAS excellent!:D

  7. I think the "scales" in this case are the individual handle pieces on the razor...definitely a job well done!
  8. Your best bet would be to make up some test tiles and about 100 grams of your glaze and run some tests. The test tiles should have some contours so that you can see how the glaze breaks over the ridges and in the valleys. If you have success there, then move on to the rest of your works... JohnnyK
  9. I guess I'm pretty safe with regard to this since I don't nod and I've never felt like jumping off a cliff...or the Empire State Building ...and I've been in both places
  10. Something else to consider would be drilling holes for the yarn to pass through instead of the slot...
  11. I think the operating word here is "seamlessly". If you were to make a thick bat, it would have to be machined to the exact size as the 12" head, and the pin holes would have to be precise for centering the bat on the larger wheelhead. Otherwise the Giffen grip might be off center. Then, too, the thick bat will have to drilled for new bat pins to use the smaller bats that you would use on your old wheels. For the sake of "seamless" operation, you'd probably be better off just buying the smaller wheelhead. JohnnyK
  12. Just got the Call for Artists for the local PBS art auction in October...I think more Horsehair Raku and maybe regular Raku will be in the offing this year since the Horsehair went over so well last year...

    1. dhPotter


      Sounds like a tradition is setting up. Congrats, JohnnyK

  13. Welcome to the Forums, Joanna... could you possibly shoot and upload some pix so we can see what kind of cracks you're getting? What is it that you are casting and how are you drying the pieces?
  14. Definitely The Glaze Book (Spiral-bound) by Stephen Murfitt .
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