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JohnnyK

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About JohnnyK

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    Advanced member

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Citrus Heights, CA
  • Interests
    Ceramics, glazing techniques, photography, farming, reading all kinds of stuff but primarily thrillers

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  1. I was just reminded how fragile bone-dry greenware is when I was transporting a stack of berry bowls from my studio to my garage to load into the kiln...broke 2. Will open the kiln this afternoon to unload 40 pieces and get ready for glazing and horsehair Raku...

    1. Denice

      Denice

      Been there, done that.   Denice

    2. liambesaw

      liambesaw

      Yowch!  All part of the process I suppose. Another offering to the kiln gods.

    3. glazenerd

      glazenerd

      I HAD the bad habit of picking up green ware by the rim- again HAD!! 

  2. Almost sounds like your Exec Director doesn't want to deal with minors. The problem goes away when they're 18...
  3. Welcome to the forums, Poly...I can't say much about the draft angle, but there will definitely be a problem with the curve trapping air. What you might do is drill a hole at the top of the curve to let the air escape as you fill the mold and when the slip reaches the hole, plug it. Then finish filling the mold. Others here might have other suggestions from experience. Mine is from a purely mechanical standpoint. JohnnyK
  4. Hey, John,,,in your photo there is no sign of the glaze running off the pots. Is it straight PC20 that you are using or are you layering it over something else? I've been layering it over and under many of the other PC colors with pretty consistent results on Laguna B-Mix ^5. What do mean by "sloughing off"? When it is used in the layering mode, it WILL run to a certain extent depending on how many layers you use. The only time I've had a problem with the PC glazes running excessively is when I put the Blue Rutile OVER PC4-Palladium. In this case the drips of the Palladium slipped out under the rutile but still looked pretty cool. Fortunately it didn't drip down to the shelf. On my next glaze run I'll do a pot with just the PC20 to see what effect I get.
  5. Try eBay...I just ordered a paperback copy for $10
  6. The 5000 could refer to grams which would be very high for a digital scale. That it goes to 3 decimal places could indicate that the 5000 refers to centigrams giving you a half-kilo capacity...Can you send a photo of the scale and its buttons? You won't have a goal weight capability as others have noted...just add your stuff 'til you get where you want.
  7. Sounds like you're operating a production facility...How big are the kilns you are using? Are you finding any kind of oxidation flakes on the kiln shelves in the areas where you have the problem on your mugs, or is it just the mugs?
  8. At least it is not a Song Dynasty bust...for a 16 pound price tag, I would say that you can do to it as you please. If you plan on repainting, you have a couple of ways to go. You can try the acetone to level the brush marks but, if the acetone works on the brush marks, there is a good chance that it will also dissolve the paint. Sanding with a steady hand and fine sandpaper could knock down the brush marks but you have to assume that the marks are actually paint and not plaster. You can try scraping the brush marks with a sharp tool. You can try stripping the entire piece, but not knowing what it is made of may have disastrous effects on whatever it is made of if it is not ceramic. You can try scratching it in an inconspicuous spot. If your tool goes through the paint and INTO the piece, that part is probably not ceramic since the ceramic won't be penetrated...the choices are yours to make. Have fun! JohnnyK
  9. I agree with Mark re: the gradient background. In your shots there is no separation between the white background and the white in your pieces. If you wanted to make a light box, you could do so with pvc tubing and fittings. For the sides, back and top a white shower curtain cut to fit works well and it is all very portable since you won't be gluing the frame together. I learned this trick in photo school 40 years ago...
  10. If it, in fact, a real Song Dynasty piece, you'd be nuts to do anything to it! Don't you watch Antiques Roadshow? That piece could be worth tens of thousands $$$. If you were to refire it, it could be worth about 10 cents. I agree with Neil and Babs here.
  11. Hi Melissa...from what you describe, my guess is that the wheel is just fine. You said that you are new to pottery. As such, you can't expect to throw a chunk of clay onto the wheelhead and expect to instantly be able to center. It has taken some of us days, or weeks, or months to learn to center. Some never get the hang of it. Watch a few YouTube videos on "centering clay" if you haven't done that already, or better yet, take a ceramics class that deals with throwing. You will ultimately be able to learn what you have to do right to get your clay centered. JohnnyK
  12. From the pic you posted it looks like the rim is evenly jagged. I think it looks pretty cool. If you can make a few more that look like that, I'd keep them, fire them and glaze them just for kicks. BUT, you do realize that now that you've been told a few ways to correct the "problem", you will never be able to do it again consciously...Recently I had thrown what was to be a yarn bowl but, after it was bone dry, as I was handling it, a chunk broke out of the rim. Rather than toss the bowl, I broke out the rest of the rim so it looked like a low mountain range. I'll Raku fire it and sell it as an art piece down the road. I guess it's a case of learning from our mistakes... JohnnyK
  13. Fugettaboutit...Re-firing to a temp that will melt any liner glaze will burn off the smoky carbon look. I had done a saggar firing in a Raku class and didn't like the overall look of the pot so I re-bisqued it and all of the effects disappeared, allowing me to start all over with a new effect.
  14. My guess would be that as it heats up, the column of lights will light up in succession at, say, 20% intervals. Your ideal calibration method might be to get a range of witness cones and set them up in a line, lowest to highest, front to back, viewed through a peephole. Then check them to see which falls at each light. Another method would be to get a pyrometer so you can read the temp at each light. The last thing would be to get a kiln that we might have some info on... You might try contacting Evenheat… they are still selling that model. They might be able to help you out. https://evenheat-kiln.com
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