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About JohnnyK

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    Advanced member

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  • Gender
  • Location
    Citrus Heights, CA
  • Interests
    Ceramics, glazing techniques, photography, farming, reading all kinds of stuff but primarily thrillers

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  1. JohnnyK

    No shelves

    Try to find a more accommodating studio...
  2. JohnnyK

    Re - glazing a fired peice.

    I've made repairs on pots originally glazed with Amaco's potter's Choice and have been successful to the extent that the repair doesn't show as such but the second firing to ^6 will generally change the color of the glazes in the second firing. Look at the 3rd & 4th photos at the bottom of the main forum page...the 4th is a refire of repaired bowls that were originally the same color as #3. So you might expect similar results in a refire. JohnnyK
  3. JohnnyK

    Understanding COE

    And to think that in the 3 college level courses I took COE was never mentioned, much less "glaze fit". My guess would be that the buckets of mixed glazes they provided us with were fits for the clays that they also provided...Hmmm. Hence the lack of the need to provide us with such pertinent info. All of the above is just one of the reasons that I'm a member of this forum and plan to be for a long time into the future. Thanks you all for the education you provide the rest of us! JohnnyK
  4. JohnnyK

    brushing and dipping

    Amaco promotes the layering of many of their glazes with a variety of outcomes. I have been using their Potters Choice line with great success for a number of years now (see the latest addition to my album). All of the work that I do is brushing which can be very tedious and I have considered the dipping then brushing aspect because much of my work is a variable second color over a solid first color. I don't see any reason why you couldn't brush a second or third glaze over a dipped first color and would suggest that you do a few tests to find out what happens... some small bowls or even broken pots would give you a better idea of the glaze fx than test tiles. JohnnyK
  5. Are they still using dog sleds to transport mail in Canada, Min?
  6. JohnnyK


    This album is starting out as a collection of Glaze FX, but will probably morph into something more expansive over time...
  7. JohnnyK

    Woodley leach wheel head removal

    You might try a penetrating agent like Liquid Wrench in the joint between the shaft and wheelhead before you start the serious pounding. This would work best if you remove the shaft assembly and turn it upside down... JohnnyK
  8. JohnnyK

    CI Wheelhead removal

    I had contacted Speedball last year and their tech had no idea how to take it off. I'll give it a shot and go in from the bottom to see what's up.
  9. Does anyone out there know how to remove the wheelhead from a Creative Industries MP? There is no way to just twist it off from the top, so I am wondering if I have to remove the belt shield from the bottom and get into it that way...any suggestions would be appreciated, JohnnyK
  10. JohnnyK

    Waxing and dishwashers

    Welcome to the Forums, Macca. First of all, what cone are you glaze firing to? Are you glazing the bottoms of your pieces and then waxing or are you waxing to keep the glaze off the bottoms? Are you using a runny glaze or one that will stay in place? In any case, as far as the wax is concerned, it will burn off before it could cause any kind of problem with the clay vitrifying. JohnnyK
  11. JohnnyK

    Flaking glaze

    The device you're talking about is called a "Kiln-sitter" which you don't have on your kiln. However the cones we are talking about are usually free standing (easiest for you to use) and get placed on the shelf that your pot is on. The glaze temp you are talking about is cone 06, so you would use are cones 07, 06, and 05 to give you an indication of the accuracy of your temp gauge. You can go here to get a little better idea of the cone application. http://www.overglazes.com/PDF/Orton-Cone-Chart-C.pdf Good luck, JohnnyK
  12. I just love it when an artist replies with a helpful answer to a query for a method or technique. I had two experiences in the past with opposite responses or lack of...While taking my first college level ceramics class, as one of my projects was copying a vase that I found in "500 Vases". I determined a plan for the project and proceeded to make my version of the vase. All went well until the piece was bone dry and I picked it up like I did while I was working with the wet clay...the vase exploded in my hands. In frustration, I contacted the artist, Jeff Pabatoy, and told him what I was up to in class. He, in turn, told me his process for making the vases he does and it turned out to be almost exactly the way I built my vase. Knowing that the process was a good one, I successfully constructed another vase and it made it through the bisque and glaze firings with one small crack. Jeff was a real help in this case. The other time, I contacted another artist a couple of times about his glazing process on a bowl and never heard back from him. With the glaze work I'm doing now, I feel confident that in the not too distant future I will be coming close, if not duplicating, his outcome. Hang in there, Gra, and you'll get to where you want to be! JohnnyK
  13. JohnnyK

    removing e6000?

    Just the legs...
  14. JohnnyK

    TC Offset and new elements?

    My guess would be that since the TC measures heat in the kiln that your offset shouldn't be affected by more efficient new elements. If you were replacing the TC, that would be a different story... JohnnyK
  15. JohnnyK

    Cracked handle

    Welcome to the Forums, Bayley...can you show us some pix of the cracked handle? It would help for us to suggest a possible solution. I'm guessing that you haven't bisque fired yet and that will give you a better chance of recovery. JohnnyK

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