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JohnnyK

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About JohnnyK

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    Advanced member

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Citrus Heights, CA
  • Interests
    Ceramics, glazing techniques, photography, farming, reading all kinds of stuff but primarily thrillers

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  1. What kind of piece is it and where is the break? Photos always help... You might try a wet paste made from a mixture of dry powdered clay (same as the clay body of the piece) and distilled white vinegar. paint both sides of the joint with vinegar, then paint one side with the paste and join the pieces. Sand the joint smooth when completely dry. I've never used "spooze" before and wonder what would happen to the joint when the sugar burns out in firing. JohnnyK
  2. JohnnyK

    Thoughts on the Cress FX-23 P

    I've been using an Fx23P which I bought "slightly used" for $500 a few years ago. It sat in my garage until my B23HT got too tired to make it to ^6. I sold that kiln as a bisque/low fire kiln for $200 (it was around 40 yrs old) and started using the FX about a year ago after adding an Orton digital controller. After a few tests to get it dialed in, I couldn't be happier. It has a kiln sitter which drove me nuts the first few times I used the digital controller because I kept forgetting to set the timer and hitting the start button. The kiln has been great with temp distribution ...1/2 cone difference between the top and the bottom of the kiln despite the wide space in the middle between the elements. No real complaints here!
  3. JohnnyK

    Help!!

    Welcome to the Forums, Tia! Since you are a rookie to the world of pottery, I would just go with the flow and accept that you made a mistake. It will be something to joke about as the child grows up JohnnyK
  4. JohnnyK

    Fast Firing

    Hi Maggie, welcome to the Forums...The fast firing could be the problem...not enough heatwork time to let the glazes to develop properly. You might try again, refiring the pieces with a 20 minute hold at the end, or go back to your original firing schedule with the 35 degree offset and see what happens. JohnnyK
  5. JohnnyK

    Humidity and Raku Results?

    As you've noted, Karen, Raku firing results ALWAYS vary...in your case I would have to assume that everything was exactly the same for each firing except the humidity. You pulled your pieces, which were glazed exactly the same, at the same temp each time and reduced them in the same combustible material each time for the same amount of time and used the same method of cooling before quenching... and you've done this more than twice... My experience has been that just a different placement in the reducing bucket, the amount of combustibles below and above the piece, how long the bucket stays open before covering by even a few seconds...ALL can have a different effect on how your pieces turn out. With the heat levels that you are dealing with, I find it difficult to accept that the level of ambient humidity, for the amount of time between the kiln and the reducing bucket, would have that great of an effect on the performance of the glaze between one firing and another. I would suggest that you do a number of further firings with the EXACT same conditions before you draw any specific conclusions. in the photo, the 2 top pieces of the fountain were glazed the same, and fired at the same time and reduced in the same bucket, but came out looking very different...results do vary! JohnnyK
  6. JohnnyK

    Employees vs Productivity

    I'd like to disagree with the last sentence here, Stephen. I've worked in a number of situations over the years where I and my friends on the job worked better together because we were able to incorporate separate individual skills synergistically to increase production...just saying... JohnnyK
  7. I have collected various pieces over the years with the latest being a couple of pieces traded and purchased from our own Mark Cortright. My favorite, however, is a crystalline glazed vase that was broken and dug out of the trash. My wife managed to salvage all of the pieces and I glued it back together and I keep it as an inspiration for my eventual foray into that realm of glazing... JohnnyK
  8. JohnnyK

    Glaze Defect

    Actually, Melinda, the "defect" looks pretty cool to me. I would record everything you did to get that look even though you weren't trying. Then I would try to find another glaze with the same color and start testing again...You did run some tests on this glaze, didn't you? JohnnyK
  9. You have been a continued inspiration to me and the Forum. I'm glad to hear that you will continue hanging in there with us...Good luck with your expanding business! JohnnyK
  10. I have read in the forums and watched on YouTube various ways of determining the thickness of the bottoms of pots prior to trimming but have yet to see a simple method that I learned in my first pottery class about 10 years ago. It incorporates the use of 2 straight edges and can be used on pots of any size or shape. In the attached pix you can see how to use a straight edge and a ruler which will tell you in inches (or millimeters) the exact thickness, or you can use a couple of skewers and a marker to give you a visual representation. This way you don't have to tap the bottom while you are trimming to decide if it sounds about right or try to use your fingers to estimate the thickness. It's a real pain for beginners to use these methods and find that they were off just a little as they punched through the bottom of their pot. Using this method, you take a measurement from the inside of the pot. Then you take a measurement from the outside and subtract the two and you will know exactly how thick the pot bottom is. Give it a try the next time you trim your pots!
  11. I'm currently using and making handleless mugs...no pulling, extruding, or backfilling necessary and my customers seem to like them too! JohnnyK
  12. JohnnyK

    How hot does this kiln get?

    I think one way to find out is to fire it up and see what color it gets to or use a pyrometer to determine the temp. I would question how you would control the firing since the pix do not show any kind of controls...no dials or switches, etc., just the power cord and ungrounded plug. Is there a ceramics/kiln repair facility nearby where you might take it to have it tested or have a tec come to you to do the testing? Finally, why did you buy it not knowing anything about the unit? I hope you got it for a really, really great price! JohnnyK
  13. JohnnyK

    NEW SKUTT WHEEL

    In my humble opinion, the removable splash pan is the only way to go if you are the type of person who like a relatively clean workspace... some of the wheels I have seen look like they are never cleaned regardless of the type of pan. It's your choice. The removable pans aren't that heavy and shouldn't be too difficult to remove and clean. Just get the big chunks out before you take it apart! JohnnyK
  14. How big a slab is it? It may be more efficient to break it up and pour a new, thinner slab. JohnnyK
  15. Seriously, Lee....a spotting brush?! It brings back memories of my stint in a professional Freelance Photographers school in Sacramento in 1980 and the hours spent retouching the Black & White photos> I still use those skills today as you do for the fine lines and spotting necessary for various art applications... JohnnyK
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