Jump to content

KathleenHamlet

Members
  • Content count

    13
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  1. Oh, and Daryl Baird has a Facebook page! You should join!
  2. Congratulations! Youre going to love it. Only thing I would do different? Placement..Right OUTSIDE the door of my studio mounted on a 4x4 post sunk into concrete (in a tire, in case it ever has to be moved). Hate the mess...
  3. Did not realize I was on trend ....

    I know, right? Never heard of "Ombre"
  4. Vinegar and clay.

    I do have another point with vinegar and porcelain, esp very alkaline porcelain and very hard water. If you use too much vinegar, as I was, the vinegar and hard water combined to form chunks of calcium, which will blow out during the firing. Now its distilled water and no vinegar.
  5. Paragon Electric Kiln - voltage?

    Follow Arnolds advice and also start reading up on electricity...then call an electrician to do the work. Paragon has an awesome website with all kinds of troubleshooting info...
  6. Used Kiln

    All my kilns are CL kiln...look for good clean bricks and a decent sitter...everything else is easily replaced...but I wouldnt pay $450 unless its perfect- here in Austin. I dont know about your area. Here we usually have at least 20 listed at a time.
  7. Pottery Wheel

    Buy the best wheel that you can...check craigslist, ebay, amazon, etc...avoid the cheepies!
  8. Photographing translucent pots

    Antoinette's husband is the photographer
  9. Why not paper clay?

    Thanks Chris! Good idea to let them rest....that i dont do-too impatient, I guess. The paperclay is also colored. I was using big blocks (like you do) but that was tying up too much clay at one time. And I was frustrated with the cracking -I knew that it is difficult to slice cleanly with paper in it. Its also fun to make the little canes and mix them up. The warping is also a big issue. For awhile I was mixing frost with other clays. The most promising was the grolleg based clay from Matt and Daves. Unfortunately, it didnt come to market. On Monday morning, I am going to buy my local supplier's grolleg. I am building a small hand operated ram press to help with warping and unevenness. ought to be interesting! Like you, I started with colored clay and never wanted to do anything else! Thanks for the help...Kathleen If I understand what you are trying to do ... It's probably one of the most difficult challenges around so that's why you are getting so frustrated. From what I understand ... You are trying to cut thin slices from a colored block and laminate it onto paper clay. You are dealing with extremely different shrinkage rates that will affect every firing and result quite naturally in cracks, bloats, breaks and everything else. No getting around the fact that the two things are on different paths! In order to make your idea work, you might have to add the colors to the paper clay, not pure clay. This way the shrinkage rates will match and they will work as a team rather than against each other. Check out the previously mentioned page on my site for some of my results. If I misunderstood and the colored clay is paper too, then you just have to slow down ... When laminating two pieces, I roll them both out then let them rest on a damp towel for at least an hour before trying to connect them. This gives the clays a chance to relax and retract alone before they have to merge. I get best results when I leave them on a damp towel overnight covered with plastic then laminate in the morning.
  10. Why not paper clay?

    Thanks for the kind words, Jim! Southern ice and Cool ice are only available from Australia or Seattle Pottery Supply (and they are out) I buy as much Clay as I can afford which is usually 50 # at a time. I was trying to figure out why the blowouts and paper was all I could think of. I was using the dollmakers technique of sintering and then polishing the surface. perhaps they are air bubbles...anyway it was not quite funny at the time...pieces were popping out like crazy! Im not giving up on clay..just cant afford this kind of loss rate. Hi Kathleen. Yeah, that's the way Frost works. You check a piece out when it is almost bone dry and think, Great! it's gonna make it, then look at it a couple of hours later and there's a hairline crack running across it. Your process in intriguing. What do you make? Any chance of posting pics? I hope the ram press works but I doubt that it will because I've found that no amount of working and compressing Frost prevents cracking. Jim Kathleen, sorry that you're getting frustrated. What you're doing is so good that is is well worth whatever it takes to solve the problems you're having with the clay. I could easily be wrong but I don't think a ram press is going to solve problems with warping and cracking. I also can't see paper causing blow outs unless there's way too much and/or it isn't evenly mixed into the clay. When I potted in Denver I laminated colored porcelain and never had any problems with it. I used a porcelain made by Mile Hi Ceramics but that was almost 40 years ago so I don't remember the name. Someone just informed me above that they make a cone 6 Southern Ice called Cool Ice. If that's really available, you might want to check that out because Southern Ice is just as white and translucent as Frost and a hell of a lot easier to work with. Chris is obviously the expert on colored porcelain so maybe she can help you. Good luck. Jim
  11. Why not paper clay?

    Jim, Im so frustrated that Im ready to give up and go to darker porcelain! All of the porcelains Ive seen lately seem very dark even the grollegs. I thought a press might help with warping and evenness. I seem to be losing alot in the kiln as well. I do laminated porcelain. I am now making small blocks and taking thin slices from them to laminate over a base of colored paper clay. Thanks Kathleen Hi Kathleen. Yeah, that's the way Frost works. You check a piece out when it is almost bone dry and think, Great! it's gonna make it, then look at it a couple of hours later and there's a hairline crack running across it. Your process in intriguing. What do you make? Any chance of posting pics? I hope the ram press works but I doubt that it will because I've found that no amount of working and compressing Frost prevents cracking. Jim
  12. Why not paper clay?

    Jim, I also use Frost with paper in a manner similar to Chris...glad to hear that Im not the only one to experience such cracking! What I discovered is that when I sintered the piece (fired to 019^) and soaked it in water to sand, I had blowouts...I believe they are paper related. I can relate to your cracking problems as mine also always occur just before bone dry...very frustrating..I was planning to build a hand ram press to help with this problem Marcia, Just to experiment, I've added clay to most of the clay bodies I work with, but usually don't go to the trouble. The only clay I almost always put paper in is cone 6 Frost. I love this clay because after testing most of the commercial cone 6 and 10 porcelains and a lot of made from scratch recipes, it is by far the whitest and most translucent. The problem is that Frost is also the most crack prone clay I have ever used. For example, it is almost impossible to throw a mug with a thin flat bottom without it cracking just before it is bone dry (working and compressing the bottom, centering and then flipping over and re-centering, etc, etc doesn't help). So, I add just a little paper to it and it cuts the cracking down by about 70%, which, since I'm not a production potter, I can live with. More paper cuts it down even more but then it begins to feel like paper clay. Unfortunately, I don't measure, so can't say exactly the amount of paper added but what I do when I get a batch of Frost 6 in is put hot water into a blender. (Yes, I've gone through a couple of blenders but that was because I was using cheap ones. The Crusinat (sp?) that I stole from my wife has lasted a very long time.) and then add something between 1/3 and 1/2 of a roll of toliet paper to the water and blend to break down paper then add pinches of clay until I have a paperclay slip that is far more paper than clay. I pour this out on my plaster wedging board to dry and mix up another batch. When these dry enough to wedge up (weird to wedge because it is mostly paper). I mix it into the Frost at something like one pound of my paper slip to 25 pounds of Frost. Sometimes (depending on what I want to use it for) I double or triple the amount of paper. It's actually very easy and well worth the effort for Frost. My pugmill would make it even easier, but as I have complained here before, it ruins clay. I can't feel the paper when throwing. There is hardly any evidence of paper when trimming. The only place I can detect the paper when working with the clay is when wedging by cutting and slapping, the wire pics up a little paper. No effect on whiteness or translucency. Jim
×