Roberta12
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Posts posted by Roberta12
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I have mixed a clear matte out of John Britt's book that is similar. 3M satin matte. Let me know if you want the recipe. Amaco makes some lovely matte glazes. Check those out and see if they have a clear. They come in pints, so you could do some testing without breaking the bank.
Roberta
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4 hours ago, Callie Beller Diesel said:
Know that despite how the tone of this might come across, I do sympathize with your ruined project. I mean none of this as shaming, only as information.
You have a relatively wide piece compared to the thickness, no foot rim, a very thin cross section and you glazed only the inside and the top of the rim. You don’t state it, but I’m going to guess that the glaze layer was a comparable thickness to the cross section of the clay. That alone can be a solid recipe for dunting, even if you haven’t had previous problems with that glaze. That scenario can actually a way to set up a stress test for clay glaze compatibility.
16 hours ago, neilestrick said:The glass has a very different COE (coefficient of expansion- different shrinkage) than the clay and glaze, and it most likely put a ton of stress on the coasters and blew them apart.
What they are telling you is true. I used to melt a lot of glass into the bottom of small pots. I actually had a small sliver come loose and cut a person. Not badly, but that stopped me in my tracks. And @Callie Beller Diesel and @neilestrick are correct about the explosion. I had a smaller incident with glass in the kiln. It's simply not a safe practice. If you have seen commercial coasters with some sort of melted glass in them, I surmise that they were treated with a form of resin to seal the glass. I have one on my desk. Which is what prompted me to try it in the first place! Live and learn.
Roberta
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I have to say I have had some of the most delightful customers over the years. Some are educated to the world of clay and others not. I too, love the questions. Kids are great! One young person (probably 7 or 8 years old) buys a small piece from me each year telling me he likes pretty things. One of the more interesting questions I had a few years back was a woman whose adult daughter was having health issues, auto immune of some sort, and she was asking exactly what are the components of glazes. Specifically. We talked for a long time about that. I explained what most of the ingredients were. I think she was trying to determine if there were ingredients in certain glazes that could cause health issues. She didn't buy anything, but it a great connection!
customers who flip a piece over to check the bottom looking at the foot or comment on the weight of the piece, you know it's not their first piece of handmade pottery. The customers who seek me out each year to buy another piece, who tell me they won't let anyone else in the house use their pots, kids who express awe and wonder that I have made everything from a ball of clay....that's a joy, right there.
- Kelly in AK, kswan and Min
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Use a car dent puller to dip your pots in glaze! https://tinyurl.com/2p9y6bn3\\\\\\\\\\
I bought a couple of dent pullers for that reason. It only works on waxed, very smooth, flat bottoms. If that describes your pots, it will probably work.
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53 minutes ago, MCB said:
Hi Roberta - yes I have a downdraft vent so there should be good air movement going on. I turned the vent off when the firing finished thinking a slower cool would be better, but maybe that (marginally) contributed to my overfiring as well. Great to hear you’ve had better success going to cone 5 with a hold. How long do you do your hold for?
And I also have an L&L. E23T the 2 inch brick. My beauty has 943 firings on it. I have been programming slow glaze, cone 5, 10-15 min hold. I have been putting in the 15 minute hold if it's a lighter load. My thinking was that the lighter load might need the longer hold because there wasn't as much work in there. But 5 minutes probably doesn't make that much difference. Just trying to problem solve on the go. And like you, I try to turn the fan off right after it finishes firing. If I am reading my cones correctly, I am getting about 5 and a half with heatwork. And bottom and middle are hotter than top.
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@Hulk Thanks for the picture. I misunderstood when you said a "sharp corner" I was thinking it was a "sharp corner" of tape. I have had this really challenging order that I have been working on. I needed a clean line on the foot. I usually use Forbes wax and since it was porcelain I put alumina oxide in the wax, but the glaze was a strong blue color and I wasn't happy with just wax. I did end up using frog tape, and I did get a clean line. Outside of the bowl was the dark blue, interior was 2 glazes and a flux. So I was working to keep everything clean. I should post of picture of what I ended up doing. It made me laugh when I saw them all lined up. It actually worked for dipping.
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3 hours ago, Jeff Longtin said:
Here are plate tongs made from plastic jar covers. (For some reason the image is sideways?) The many holes prevent the lids from holding glaze which then drips onto your still wet plate. The little notches in the lid rim aid in holding the plate edge. Once the glaze is dry I dab a little glaze where the lids held the edge. Generally speaking it enables me to glaze plates without any drip marks. Really appreciated with translucent glazes.
Clever, @Jeff Longtin thank you for the picture! Do those "tongs" work on larger/longer platters also??
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10 hours ago, neilestrick said:
I would try a cone 5 firing, on medium or med-fast. Slow is not necessary. Your glaze is probably over-fired, however bisque firing cone 04 might help.
I agree with @neilestrick Your kiln has 3inch brick, it will hold the heat well. Great idea to get cones in there. Good information. I would try firing to cone 5 next time.
I say this because I have switched from cone 6 with a hold to cone 6 without a hold to cone 5 with a hold this last year. My glazes are happier, and I am not getting some of the bloating I was getting on my dark brown clays before at cone 6. I also realize that while my kiln might have been firing hotter than previously, I also was not properly making my cone packs. I bought some of the pre made plaques and put kiln wash on them so they can be reused. I feel like my cone results are more consistent. Anyway, I see you have self supporting cones, and you have a great start! Do you have a vent fan on your kiln?
Roberta
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2 hours ago, Hulk said:
Likely not an option for most*.
I use masking tape for the sharp line at the foot; it helps to make a line in/on the ware where the tape goes - I cut a sharp corner where the foot ends and the pot body begins and burnish it - easy to tape to.
The tape doubles as something to hold onto when dipping the pot upside down in the glaze!
Also helps to pull the tape off before the glaze layer is fully dry - no dust.For big and heavier items, I'm pouring over (upside down), still using the tape on the foot, but holding onto the pot, glazing about half at one time.
*I ran lots of tape in a previous life of house, car, farm machinery, and furniture finishing.
...and I like having something to hold onto, given I somewhat detest tongs.@Hulk I think I need a visual. cutting the sharp corner....next time could you take a pic? I think I need a pic of @Jeff Longtin peanut butter lids as well.
Roberta
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@Callie Beller Diesel my sales at my big show were about the same as last year. However, I made a conscious decision to make more small items. That worked for me. Lot of ornaments and small dishes and small cups were sold. A few larger pieces but not very many. Our community is being faced with the closing of some large enterprises and groceries have doubled in cost. My heart goes out to younger families with kids. There is still the push to buy local and for many, the desire to purchase handcrafted. Just a lower price point. As one of the organizers of the local market, I will be able to see sales numbers in about a month as the sales taxes roll in. I will be able to do more comparison then.
r.
- Callie Beller Diesel, GEP, LeeU and 1 other
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Best advice ever, @GEP Especially the part about saying no to things that aren't really productive. I have had people ask about part time work with me, but I think it would make me nuts. I am pretty much in my own head when I am making. I have even thought about what part of my work could I even have someone else do? Not much. A friend stayed with us for a few days. She volunteered to do some sanding. That was terrific, but I found myself going back over everything and checking for rough spots. What the Heck? I don't consider myself a perfectionist by any means, but I guess I have a standard for my work going out into the world (QOTW) that I have to double check everything. So yeah, I am happier working by myself.
Roberta
- Callie Beller Diesel, Pres, kswan and 1 other
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On 12/7/2022 at 10:40 AM, neilestrick said:
I use Speedball pink at cone 6 all the time. I don't love the color, though- too salmon for me- so I cut it 50/50 with white to get a nice soft pink. Could be your clear glaze causing the burnout, or maybe not putting the pink on thick enough.
I actually talked to the Amaco and Duncan people and they sort of shrugged and said, well, yeah, that does happen.
I was just "gifted" some speedball pink. I will try that!
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21 minutes ago, neilestrick said:
You can treat the underglaze like any other oxide wash. Water it down as needed. To show texture well, brush it over the entire area, then sponge it off the high points so it stays in the recesses.
@neilestrick have you taken the speedball pink above cone 6? I have had maroon and pink burn out at cone 6. Amaco Red seems to tolerate higher temps, but I haven't tried it at 10.
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Amazing Mark! She was a true devotee!
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Follow @goodelephantpottery on Instagram @catiemillermillerceramics on Instagram (who just had a great post today about what it takes) and @jenallenceramics and @chandradebuse and so many others as well as @Mark C. It will give you an idea of what it takes.
Roberta
- Babs, Callie Beller Diesel, GEP and 1 other
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There is a potter in Utah who digs clay in his backyard and uses it as a glaze, maybe you could say an overglaze effect. Aaron Ashcraft. I have several pieces of his pottery and have taken a ws from him. It's interesting what that wild clay does to his glazes.
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My go to buckets are the frosting buckets from the local bakery. They seem to be sturdier than the ones at the hardware store. I did buy a couple of 2 gal buckets just for small batches of glaze. I watch them closely for leaking.
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I was taught to spread underglaze with a brush, on a large sponge and then tap tap tap your rubber stamp on the sponge. Then apply to your bisque ware. This works for me. This also gives you the capability of changing underglaze colors.
r.
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I keep my clay in the basement, next to where I work. It's stacked up. I am a distance from my clay supplier, so I do tend to stock up when I can. I keep some boxes out in the shop. It's cool out there in the winter but doesn't freeze. That clay is more accessible if I am taking the clay to a workshop or giving it to others who are throwing for Empty bowls or something like that. I am with the non cat herding people. I have tried in the past to organize a shipment to our part of the world. Never again.
r.
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@DMCosta Everyone has given great advice. I did my LLC myself, online, through the State Dept of Revenue site. But I am in Colorado and I have found all of that differs from state to state. I have yet to find an accountant or even a bookkeeper (in our area) that understands the numerous income streams that we can potentially have. Shows, commission, space rent, studio sales, wholesale, and then of course the over 200 different tax rates in this state and determining which cities are home rule, self collecting. As was suggested, find someone who can give you accurate advice for your state and area. Good Luck!
r.
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@irenepots Like you I usually use the slow bisque program, but I have used fast bisque at times (deadlines!) and I have noticed no difference as far as glazing. That includes porcelain, dark brown clay and speckled clay. That is simply my experience.
r.
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@hlipper I have the same kiln. I have more than 900 firings on that beast. The absolute first thing I do to check is the paper test. I fold small strips of paper and insert in between the coils on the elements on each level. Then turn it on a fast glaze and see what burns and what doesn't. If it's just one section, it could be a relay. If it's all sections, could be old elements. But I also check the elements closely to see if a smidgen of glaze got in there and caused things to burn out. But we also get the multimeter out and do that testing. How many firings on your elements? I am also a BIG believer in a kiln log. I write down every single firing and every single repair. If you want a copy of mine, dm me and I will send it.
Roberta
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The art teacher in the Elementary school where I was working had a wheel stuffed under some storage tubs in her storage closet. I told her I was thinking of setting up a home studio, since the last child had left home and I had a room that could be turned into a studio. She said, "here, take this and use it for the rest of the school year. You can decide if it would be a workable situation for you!" I did. It was. After a month, I returned her wheel and bought my Brent C. I also transported work to be fired for a time, but then we built a shop for the kiln and glazing supplies and shared space with my husband for his woodworking. The Wheel came first.
r
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@Fromphyl I had picture #2 experience the first time I fired bmix with speckles. I fired to cone 6. Which turns out was probably hotter. Closer to 7. But...I called Laguna and they said that clay is definitely a cone 5 clay. I told him it looked like chicken pox or pimples. And he said it was overfired. My bumps/blisters were with 2 different glazes. I now fire to cone 5 with that clay, and so far have only used clear glaze on it and no blisters. I even did a refire and it was fine. Were all the cups in the same place in the kiln? I ask because I now know that my top shelf is a lot cooler than the rest of the kiln.
Roberta
I was just "gifted" some speedball pink. I will try that!
What kind of vehicles?
in Business, Marketing, and Accounting
Posted
I do not participate in as many shows as some of these folks, but I can pack my Subaru Outback fairly tightly. No room for passengers. I did a larger show a few years ago and my husband came along to help so we used his Chevy 1/2 ton pickup. I have 6 ft long shelves that break down and fit perfectly in the Subaru.