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Roberta12

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About Roberta12

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    Colorado

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  1. I have done that as well, just get some sort of mat under the Tyvek and an exacto knife and make your own stencils. Tyvek works great on slabs, paper works better on dry leather hard pots, (dip the paper in water, sponge or rib it on the pot, apply underglaze, let dry a bit, then peel the paper off. ) You can also cut your own stencils out of paper, using an exacto knife, a couple of thicknesses of paper and a mat.
  2. I have used rubber stamps on bisque ware quite a bit. As was mentioned before, it's better on a flat surface but you can 'rock' the stamp on a curve and still get a good impression. I was taught to make my own stamp pads with a sponge, a brush, and underglaze. I use sponges I get from the hardware store for grouting, cut them up to the size I need, brush underglaze on the sponge and then tap tap tap your rubber stamp on the glazed sponge. It works well, does not bleed, and is permanent. You could slide the whole sponge into a zip lock bag and it would stay moist. I have carved stamps out of clay and bisque fired them and those work well, I have a manufactured acrylic stamp that I use for a local business, there are lots of ways to achieve your end goal! Good luck. Roberta
  3. Roberta12

    Selling Internationally - Import Taxes

    Joseph, just to be clear in my own head, the mug was one price, the shipping was one price, then the customer paid an additional 25 Euro for duty fees?
  4. Roberta12

    Differences

    In the search bar at the top, type in those subjects. There is a LOT of information on this forum concerning stains, engobes, Underglaze, etc. Once you have read through that, you will have many more questions, that can help to clarify! Roberta
  5. Roberta12

    medpinkwgrayssm

    As always Marcia, you have created a beautiful piece.
  6. Roberta12

    Terri’s Earthy Rusty Yarn bowl

    Absolutely beautiful!!!
  7. Believe it or not, but I have also tried most of those clays over the last 10 years. For a variety of reasons. At this moment I am using Laguna #16 and Laguna WC429. They are both easy to work with in a number of techniques and most important to me, work well with my glazes and make sturdy functional ware. But I do not believe they would work for you with your criteria. You did not mention Laguna Half and Half WC402. It has some grog to make it stable but not too rough. Before I read your list I was going to suggest Aardvark's Artic White. It was stable and easy to work with as was Texas White. I do know that they use Laguna Dover White at our local community college. Laguna WC398 is not on your list. I haven't tried it but it sounds promising for you. Would you have space in your classroom for your students to change their shoes or wear aprons? Clay is messy and that does seem to go along with the process. There are a number of teachers on this forum that may have better advice for you in that respect. Roberta
  8. Mea said it best. Your first show will be your test. You will have things left from that show that you can stock in the 2nd show. I usually have work that is bisque but not glazed in between shows, so I can have a few glaze loads in that two week time. And simply take as much as you possibly can so that you see what appeals to your customers. Make certain to engage in conversation about your work, customers will give you insight as well. Have a great time!! Roberta
  9. Roberta12

    Earthenware bakers

    You could contact the clay manufacturer and get their recommendation. Roberta
  10. Roberta12

    Simple question

    I love the printer blankets I received from Old Lady so very much, I got another set from our local newspaper right before they were set to start printing in another town! Clean up very easily. No texture. Roberta
  11. Roberta12

    Age of dry materials

    Thanks Marcia. I was trying to decide yesterday which things to combine, and which to keep separate. I combined his cobalt carb with mine, silica, epk, A couple of other things. I did not combine the rutile. It is a little bit darker than what I have, but it still looks like it should. I thought I would test some of those things first. As I am going through all of his carefully labeled bags and pails I just felt like I could not let these things go to waste. You are right about it costing so much to properly dispose of chemicals. So, 50 pounds of custer feldspar is going to Steamboat to a hard working potter. The colemanite is going to a forum member. The talc is going to a forum member, the shelves are going to Palisade Colorado, the dolomite and bentonite are going to New Mexico. And on and on. It's a way to create a legacy for Steve Grandbouche. And pass along a tradition.
  12. Roberta12

    Age of dry materials

    And speaking of Kona, there is a small bag of Kona as well. Not sure what to do with that either. Thanks for the info on the shelves. There were two small chunks that did not have kiln wash on them., everything else is washed but in good shape. They are going to a friend who gas fires.
  13. Roberta12

    Age of dry materials

    Thanks! I have no recipes that use colemanite. I will have to think what to do with it. Do you know what the shelf material is (in the picture) ?? Is it a shelf made for gas fire??
  14. I don't fire to cone 10, but I know some friends that do. And I like the absorption test idea also. I really hate to just pitch all this clay. There is a big barrel of rock hard, really white clay. My assumption is that it is porcelain. I think he used both. But there is an old refrigerator full of a medium brown clay. Most of it still soft. I think he fired gas in the past, but in more recent years he must have been firing electric. A family member took the kiln that was in the shop. I did not get to see it. I have seen no evidence whatsoever of earthenware. Thanks friends for a direction! Roberta
  15. I have access to 500 pounds or so of unmarked bags of clay. Is there a way to determine whether it is mid or high fire? No boxes, labels, receipts or notebooks in sight. Roberta
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