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mnnaj

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Posts posted by mnnaj


  1. We have found ourselves with quite a number of posts that have schmutz on them so they don't sit flat.  Some of them have been ground down.  We now have a pile of posts of various heights, just off by 1/16" , give or take, from each other.  I'm toying with the idea of cutting the posts down to the next full inch to try to get them all the same size.   The formerly 5" posts to 4" ect...

    Are there any suggestions on what kind of saw will work?  I have access to an older type miter saw and a table saw.  How about blades?

    And being kind of new to the maintenance side of kilns and shelving - is kiln wash necessary on the ends of the posts for electric kilns that only fire to ^6?

    Thanks, Nancy


  2. Take classes.  The dream of being a potter or playing with clay maybe upset by the reality of things you can't control, like back pain, allergies to dust, always having rough dry hands.   Your instructor will be able to give advice on how to do things easier - things that might take you months or years to discover on your own.  I also find that the  interaction with other students improves me and changes my work.  Seeing things online are ok, but being able see it done, walk around the demo, look at it from another angle, touch the clay at each stage, that is worth much, much more. 

    Nancy

     by the way I started classes at age 50.


  3. As a new teacher in a community education setting I have a question that I have not seen in the  Forum.  One of my students may be pregnant.  I have looked in books on health and safety by Monona Rossol, Michael McCann,  and Angela Babin.  None are specific to clay, pottery and glazing.

    Other than the basic precautions all of us should be using (wet mopping, dust mask, frequent breaks for back), are there things/chemicals that we should be concerned about?   I'm mostly thinking glazing, are there chemicals she should avoid, or will using gloves and good housekeeping be enough?

    Thanks for your input.

    Nancy Johnson


  4. This was yesterdays two glaze loads.

    I priced and packed them took some to a outlet and loaded the large kiln with a bisque load which I'm firing today as well as firing my small kiln with my cat -doing a cremation.

    I have some new shino like glazes that turned out well in the big kiln.

    sorry to hear about your cat.


  5. I've made vases about 18" and 14" tall, not cone shaped though.  

    Sometimes as you pour the excess slip out it will 'glug' causing the soft slip to pull away from inside the mold.  Be very careful and slow as you do the pouring.  

    Experience will show you how long to let the slip stay in the mold before you decant it.  I found that the drier my mold, the less time I had to let it set up.  

    Perhaps one of your mold pieces has something on it that resists water, that can slow the movement of moisture into the plaster and cause thin/weak spots.

    Nancy


  6. I have been able to rub the pinholes out at greenware.  Depending on what your mold looks like will depend on if your piece will crack.  How many pieces is your mold?  Is it mostly enclosed or have a large open area?  I have had some luck on a 3 piece mold taking one side and the bottom off, leaving the other side horizontal with the piece still inside of it. Then putting the first side back on and flipping it and exposing the wetter side to air.  

    You can reclaim the botched and dried pieces - takes time, but it can be done.

    It takes practice and time to make good slipware.  Good luck

    Nancy


  7. Sorry for your loss.  

    For human urns I've been told to figure 1 cubic inch per pound.  For a 200 lb person + or - that would be an inside measurement of 6 x 6 x 6.  I've figured that to be a bit less than a gallon size.  For Thanatos at 10 lbs that would be less than 3 x 3 x 1.5, maybe a cup, cup and a half.  You do beautiful work.  I'm sure Thanatos would love being always near you as you play in clay.

    Nancy


  8. As a preventative I use a barrier cream.  I don't remember the brand.  I special ordered it from my pharmacy.  Apparently it comes either as a water barrier cream or an oil barrier cream.  The instructions for mine were to rub it in and then run the hands under cool water.  The water would bead off where ever the cream was.  Every couple of hours it should be reapplied.  

    hope this helps.

     Nancy


  9. Terry, make sure there is not a drop or molecule of glaze on the box or lid where they touch, especially a chino.

     

     

    I was in a class where a bunch of students thought they could wax over the glaze and still get the top off, they were surprised.

    Sorry to hear about all the injuries, even though they sound funny - stop before you hit meat. I'll remember that.

     

    MNNAJ

     

     

     


  10. I have a large-14" diameter earthenware plate that pings at least once or twice a day. It was bisqued at ^04, glazed with white majolica and overglaze, glaze fired to ^06. It is less than 1/2" thick. It was fired last December and has been pinging ever since. I have leaning against a wall with a plate rail under it.

    My questions are - Will I wake up one morning to find it in pieces? Will the glaze pop off of it? If I refire to ^04 do you think that will stop the pinging?

    Thanks

    mnnaj

    post-14574-136985265786_thumb.jpg

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