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cstovin

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Everything posted by cstovin

  1. Hi all; I have been doing craft fairs for a little while, and I have a decent product; my downfall is the selling point; I have tried to find older posts - for some reason, my "forum" now displays horribly like old HTML layout - which makes this impossible - but how do you engage customers, without running them off, but at the same time, acknowledging them and increasing sales? I always greet them, watch body language to see how to proceed next; I don't pounce on them if they are "just looking"...but I can't seem to find a way that works for me....any suggestions?
  2. Thank you - will read the blog you posted (GEP)....I did read that standing gives a much better presence than sitting - will try that I just started pottery a few years ago, most of the items I have now are decorative; I know I need more functional things, which will help. Maybe that is a followup question - if you have items that are more "decorative" - how do you sell a vase lol; I have done hang tags which has been suggested on here, I also have setup examples which has helped. One more question - what do you do with your items that are not 100%? Example: I had some jewelry cups for earrings and brushes that the glaze was too think n the bottom; they are still nice and functional, just not as perfect as I like. do you put them on a "markdown" shelf? Do you throw them away so you don't have a "shelf of shame" lol - thank you all - appreciate the help C.
  3. Hi all I have a cress 25P for the life of me I can't figure out how to run; my pottery teacher said that firing it for pottery isn't going to work, it is more a "hobby kiln", but I am sure they are able to fire to cone 6 it has a temperature wheel, a thumb-wheel numbered I think 1-10; and the hourly timer. the hour and temperature timer I think I get. what their instructions are lacking, is information about the thumb wheel There is also a setting on the side that you can set to fire faster or slower So, here is the question, how is the thumb wheel supposed to work? If I fire on the slowest speed, put the temperature at cone 6; once the thumb wheel has reached 10, does the kiln shut off? ANY HELP would be appreciated - I just can't get a clear picture of how this is supposed to work; have a manual, but it doesn't have any information on this specific configuration thanks in advance
  4. How To Fire Cress 25P

    Thank you, I have called Cress and wasn't too impressed with the help; they also do not have a manual. they directed me to their website, which manuals do not have the specified controls/combination of controls that mine has
  5. Hi everyone, I have a glaze recipe that is yellow, with dark specks/streaks in it; It says the specks/streaks are "Iron Spangles" I googled that, and found that iron spangles: Iron oxides give a wide range of colours ranging from honey yellow, brownish reds, black, purple dependent on firing conditions. In reduction a blue colour is possible. - Iron spangles are actually LARGER pieces of iron oxide I can't find any place in US where they sell them, only sites in the UK; anyone know how I could/would get my fingers on some?
  6. Where To Buy "iron Spangles" In Us

    thank you all, will give it a try
  7. HI all I have been scouring Google, and I can't find much information on using englobes and combining them with mid-fire glazes? I know the studio I used to take lessons with would for example roll a leaf into a plate, cover the surface with a black englobe and then fire; after it was initially fired, he would then use a combination of mid-fire glazes - I can't remember if this was the correct sequence; what glazes work well (cone 6) with englobes, or anything about how to even approach this Any info would be much appreciated! C
  8. Engobes And Mid-Fire Glazes

    I was trying to find out what mid-fire glaze combinations you could use with a black or red engobe? I can't remember what they used to do at the art center I used to go to; and I can't find much information on using engobes with mid-fire glazes.
  9. Hi all I thought I had seen some posts on here before, but I couldn't find them, so forgive me. I have seen the hang tag approach, and thought that was cute, but .... When a person has a lot of different items, some functional and some non-functional - what do you feel is the most aesthetically pleasing way to put prices on your work so they do not distract from your work or your booth? Forgive me again but: Hang tags: I hate hang tags: to me, they look sloppy; they fly all over in the wind; they litter your booth floor when they fall off; people always have to turn them over to read them. Overall, I just think they make my booth look more like a thrift type booth than more upscale. Round Sticky Dots: These do have some advantages over hang tags; they don't fly around; however I still find they fall off and litter the floor of the booth; they don't stay on, so if things don't sell, I always have to reprice everything once they get unpacked again for the next show. They do look slightly better to me than hang tags, but one other disadvantage is they are small; not everyone can read them. Tent Cards: I tried these, but where I have so many items that vary in price and usage, it was almost like every item has to have it's own tent card; then they don't stay put either So: What is your favorite method of marking your prices on your items so they still appear clean, professional, and pleasing - yet people don't have to search for the prices, can read the tags, and they stay where they are intended? Thoughts? Would love to hear what works for you and why.
  10. Thank you - I actually didn't realize the round labels were sold with "removable " adhesive. That is one thing I dislike about those, is that you peel them off to reprice, or whatever, and can't get the darn little things off I am picky aren't I Still would like to hear what works well for others
  11. Hello all, I have my own equipment at home (manual cress kiln and pottery wheel) and I also take a class; last night there was a comment that firing pottery is much different than firing traditional ceramics. (Meaning on average when firing ceramics it would take about 8 hours, pottery should take closer to 12-16 for Cone 6) Is that a true statement? That firing pottery is a much longer process than for ceramics? C.
  12. Thank you all, maybe I need to refine what I am asking; we were talking about for example the next fiiring (glaze firing) when doing "ceramics". The thought being in ceramics, still making greenware, firing to cone 04 then glaze fire. The statement that was made was that a "glaze fire" for "ceramics" as I eluded to takes less time than "pottery" glaze firing. Thank you for the input; I never really saw a different between making/mold pouring and associated process vs. Clay/Pottery hand building and now wheel works.... Input helps a lot! C.
  13. Hi all, I have scoured Google, and have found one or two Waterfall Brown recipes, but they were for Cone 10; does anyone have a Waterfall Brown recipe they would be willing to share that they have had good success with? (steady, etc.) Cone 6, Waterfall brown thank you C.
  14. Hi all, I am just starting to try mixing my own Cone 6 glazes, and I thought I would start with an easy one. The recipe didn't really have a name, but only has 3 ingredients. 80% Alberta Slip 20% Frit 3134 4% Rutile It is SUPPOSED to be Bluish (see attachment); I have tried this twice now, actually three times, and all I get is brown.... I tried: 80% Alberta Slip 20% Frit 3134 (3431?) 4% Rulte I also tried: 80% Ravenscrag Slip 20% Frit 3134 4% Rutile after doing more research, it said for alberta slip more than 50%, to calcine the rest. Questions: I have heard that I don't have to calcine the additional amount over 50% (30% If I do, does anyone know any place that sells calcined alberta slip? Or do I need to do it myself? Thank you all for any advice -
  15. Thank you all; I didn't necessarily mean a three ingredient glaze would be "easy", but easier in terms of only three ingredients to potentially trouble shoot, and much less to spend at first I liked the comment about cheating lol Thank you for suggesting it go on heavier, I thought the second time around two coats would be good; and I did mix it with a little less water but will try it again C.
  16. Hello, I have heard some people bisque fire to cone 04 and glaze (if their glaze is also cone 04) at the same time; I bought some Mayco elements to try, and it is Cone 06 to cone 6; but I have never used it, and DO plan on experimenting - for those that have fired and glazed at the same time, what has your experience been with this? I have glazed for example at the same time when clear glazing the inside of vases and things like that, but have never tried it using a colored glaze? Any pros and cons I need to be aware of? Is this totally a bad idea to glaze with elements glaze and fire to cone 04 with bisque firing and the glaze firing occurring at the same time?
  17. Hello, I just started making some jewelry, and I am really confused as to some information I received from the art guild downtown. What I asked was: is there anything I can do (type of clay, firing, etc) to make my pieces stronger..... I am used to slab building, and very new to jewelry; what I was told was to fire my jewelry pieces at a higher cone temp. The higher the cone temp, the "stronger" and more durable my piece. Is that true? Meaning, if I am used to firing at cone 04, if I take the same type of clay, say B-Mix and it is capable at firing up to cone 4 - instead of firing my jewelry at cone 04 and fire it at cone 4, will the piece actually be stronger than if I had fired it at cone 04? If so, why? thank you!
  18. Handmade Bead/ornament Holder For Firing?

    i was just about ready to ask something along the lines of the same question - however, I fire to a hotter temp - up to cone 4; is there less expensive wire sources available for wire to withstand higher firing temps? thanks!
  19. Hi all, I am still refining my display as each show passes, but it is a work in progress and is coming along nicely. I do mostly Raku and Horse Hair pottery - items that are non-functional for the most part, and items that perhaps not everyone understands. Oddly enough, some of my venues are at high ranking horse shows (thus custom horse hair work) but I am noticing a lot of people either: 1) do not know what horse hair pottery is (Raku as well) 2) are confused by it 3) don't know what to think about it I have made short 1/2 page informational blurbs to explain what each one (the horse hair and raku) are; but no one reads them I have tried making a very short pictorial "story board" of what the horse hair is, and no one reads that So - my question is - for those of you that display and sell more non-functional/art work - how do you display your work so people understand what it is, are not confused by it, and are attracted to it? Any ideas? Charlene
  20. Thank you all.... @Frederick - thank you, the reason I feel I have to tell people or educate people on which pieces can be used for food, is that usually I only have horse hair or Raku pieces in my booth; then I have customers that are intending to buy a plate or something and make a comment "it will be great to serve my salad in".... I don't feel morally I can sell something that isn't food safe to someone that thinks it is. 1) they won't be happy with my product 2) they might get sick Then when I tell them it isn't food safe, they usually put it back..... so, that is my dilemma! thanks all!
  21. Hi all, I need some advice - our art center uses a spray gun (industrial spray gun ) to spray ceramic glaze on pottery; the man that does it most of the time that has the information is never there when I am and I can't get much information on how it is done - or I guess answers to the main question I have. I want to "layer" paints....but what I am wanting to know, I don't currently have a spray gun and need to go buy one at harbor freight; but I am just planning on using food safe underglazes like Mayco stroke and coats or Duncan concepts....but do you have to water the glaze down to get it out of the nozzle and to spray evenly and consistently? I don't want to copy this image - but this is kind of the effect that I want to do - layer paint, then splatter things on it..... but cann anyone give me advise on using a spray gun tool? thanks!
  22. yes, thank you-- I mean GLAZE, GLAZE, GLAZE....lol - thank you!! The stroke and coats are kind of thick to begin with is why I asked; they seem to kind of want to "cake" on a regular paint brush when I try to use them as is.....thank you all - I did go buy a paint gun at lunch - so will try it and see how it works!! thanks again!
  23. Hi there - I am a little shy, but I have gotten over approaching people for the most part; I am female - so for the most part most of my clients are usually pretty nice to me. I usually say hello, smile, and if I am working in my friends booth - she likes to just say "hi, let me know if there is anything I can help you with, or if you have any questions...."; That seems to work for her, but still I would like to learn the more "art and technique" of selling, be more interactive, and learn to "close the sale" so to speak It isn't like I want to go out and sell a car lol, but there is an art all in its own to selling; it is a skill :0). I am friendly, I smile and say hello to everyone. Thanks for the tips - will work on them! Charlene
  24. Thank you all - all good suggestions - @Clay Lover- I do often display the before and after pot, sometimes that helps and other times they are clueless; they can't figure out the meaning even though the display is marked (what it is intended for, the before and after, etc), @Pres - I have thought of a utube video or something of the like, but haven't had the time to do one yet. Unfortunately, my presentation skills in front of a camera are lacking; much better customer service skills in person. @OffCenter - good point; @Old Lady - I do have nice signage for my booth shelves that indicate at each shelf level that they are decorative, limited food use only (as an example) limited meaning wrapped candy, etc. and that does help.... @Mark - I am making a poster board now that is more professional that has pictures on it, and although I have done this before since the beginning and it hasn't helped, I am hoping a larger version will. Usually I only have three pictures on it, a girl loving her horse, a picture of a tuft of horse hair, and a finished pot; and I did try a tuft of hair, an unfinished pot, and a finished pot.....still having the same issues....but thank you will keep trying! Mea and Celia - thank you - I DO need to get better at salesmanship; this is another topic in itself....But, how do you learn sales skills? I am not talking high pressure sales skills, and I have looked online for classes, but there are skills that definitely can be learned that make it better and easier when you know the "tricks of the trade" so to speak. I know one is to not ask open ended questions; but I have searched online for training, and without knowing what I am looking for, one could spend a lot of money in a hurry.... C.
  25. Hi all, I still have a problem with my wheel, and after talking to someone at my art center, and with the people here, I am sure that my wheel head is bent and "not true" ever so slightly. But, since I am fairly new to wheel turning and this has been problematic, I was pretty bummed to find this out! But, after working with it, I decided I had two options, three at best: I could sell it and hope to get my money out of it and advertise it as "not true", I could give up, or I could force myself to learn to use it. It hasn't been an easy two weeks, but things are getting easier and I have managed to turn a few small pots on it, so needless to say, I am learning to use it. Buying replacement parts aren't an option for me right now, we don't have the funds. BUT - here lies my problem now.....how do you trim a foot on a pot when the wheel is not true? I have tried a few, but if the wheel is not centered, then how do I get my foot "centered"? Or am I making too much out of this? lol Thank you! Charlene
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