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cstovin

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Everything posted by cstovin

  1. Thank you again~ I did see the clamp lights at IKEA and was wondering how they would work - I guess that answers my question! I got into a Western Art Show next month, and this will be my first jurried event, and I know a presentation is important I have done shows with my leatherwork, but the format (saddles) were different; but I want to be professional without breaking the bank. Thank you for taking the time to respond. I got my husband to start on my shelves this weekend! ( ;0) ), and I am making a trip next week to look at what there is at IKEA for what you had already suggested for my table area display; just needed to figure out this last part. It all looks good on paper, but we will set it all up in the garage to make sure it all fits together well, looks good, and looks like I am thinking it will! Thanks again! Charlene
  2. Hi all, I have decided on a display configuration based on feedback from my earlier posts....what I didn't address was lighting issues. I am going to build some shelving like was mentioned before in my posts, as well have a table in the back part of my booth from the IKEA shelves - that was also an excellent idea. What I am wondering is what everyone uses for lighting IF and WHEN they use lights. IKEA has some that I was thinking I MIGHT be able to route a small groove in the rear of my shelf units so the cord can fit inside and be somewhat hidden, then the light could hang or clamp to the back part of the shelf and shine forward to the pieces under the light and the shelf below. For the more expensive pieces and not "bulk" items, those are the items I wanted to display on the shelfing; items that are a little more expensive, and not so much made in bulk. Items that are more bulk will go in the rear on the table shelving display. For shows that are less formal, I won't mess with the lighting at all - but I wanted feedback on what you all use at higher level shows for lighting and how you attach them to your displays so they are no distracting from your display, but doing their job and enhancing it? Thank you for the feedback! Charlene
  3. Thanks Mark...I miss being able to see it and would be GREAT to find a way to be able to do something like it here.....any information I can find would be helpful!! Charlene
  4. I did just find this picture - this native clay is ligher than what I remember, this clay came from Cook Inlet Alaska -but has the effect I am looking for - Charlene
  5. When I was a child, we used to live in Alaska (Anchorage) and at that time my mother used to do a lot of ceramics. We used to be able to buy slip at the local ceramic store that had Ptarmigan (sp) bay clay in it as well as the traditional slip - the result when fired was that it made a unique swirls of white (the regular slip) and red (the native clay out of the bay). It has been a LONG time since I have thought much about this stuff, and I don't imagine it is affordable to have the slip shipped down to me if it is available - but would there be any clay from Laguna or other clay source that would provide a similair effect? I wish I had an example of what "native clay" as it was called looked like after it was fired, but I don't and couldn't locate anything on the internet - is there anyone out there that knows what I am talking about - and would they make anything like that in traditional clay medium and not slip? Thank you Charlene
  6. I know what I am imagining in my minds eye, but I have no idea what kind of stones they are, if they are artificial, etc. I guess I need to get more familiar with stones, and do some more thinking. Thank you all for the input, it helps...even if it isn't much, they are all things that I haven't thought about! C.
  7. Hi all, I am wanting to experiment with something, I did find one or two older posts on here, but not really what I was looking for....but I need some advice. I wanted to experiment with taking slab wrok, or vases, or ?? and inlaying stones (manufactured and natural like coral, markasite, etc) to them, and firing.....one of the posts I read said to make sure you place the item in a saggar? What if your vase or item is large? How do you build a large enough "container" for it? Has anyone tried something like this? Things I don't know are: 1) will the artificial stones lose color? 2) is this even possible? 3) will they melt (I have the answer for one of the kinds I am looking at) I guess I really don't know how to go about this - I am NOT looking at using Precious Metal Clay, I want to use B-Mix or something equivalent; it would be fired to cone 06; ANY INPUT or suggestions would be HUGELY welcome!~ C.
  8. Thank you both - I like Mark's racks and am having my husband make me 2 of those, about 4' in length and will have a corner table display something kind of like what you have...thank you so much. I didn't even know IKEA had an "AS IS" area....good to know! Charlene
  9. Thank you Mark and MEA - sorry I mispelled your name; I think I would like to combine Mark's and Mea's; Mea do you know the name of your table tops? We have an IKEA in Portland which is close, but I have no idea where to look just for a table top? Mark - thanks, have my husband drawing out the plans to build now! Charlene
  10. Thank you Mark and Mia and everyon else - this gives me some great ideas! This will help me a LOT!! Sorry for the late reply, I haven't been able to get on the PC for a day or two - thanks again - I might have some followup questions - but you all are GREAT!
  11. Thanks Mark, I did see the tiered ones you did, I did not see the other ones you are talking about - will go scout about and take a look!
  12. Hi all, I need input from those of you that have done several shows on a good pottery display. I have no done many pottery shows, but have done shows for my leather work. Being new to pottery and what is needed and what I would like, and trying to decipher that to my husband to build is a challange. What I know: I am going to be going to most shows alone therefore I need something that fits the following criteria: 1) easy for me to move/pack around: can't be too heavy, or take 10,000 trips to and from the truck 2) Not too heavy as stated above; if made out of wood, made in such a way that it is collapsable and lightweight wood, and possibly shelves can be removed. 3) it has to be something that can fit in either a truck/canopy situation, or the back of my living quarters horse trailer. 4) the largest factor for me is that I just need to be able to get it in and out easily since I am doing it alone. I have looked at a lot of the posts on here where people provided pictures, and there are lots of good ideas; I was thinking of something approximately no longer than 4' long (maybe 2 of rthem) and then folding shelving units? I did like the glass cube design that was posted on here - very clean and very professional looking, but I can't carry and setup all of that on my own... That being said, I was wondering of anyone else could chime in on what they use for displays (pictures would be GREAT) and give me some ideas of what works well for you? I did also look at the wood shelving unit plans that were posted on here....were the shelves fold up, and there are "cover pieces" that cover the whole display to lock at night. I like that too, but also probably too much for me to do on my own.... Thank you all for the help Charlene
  13. Hi all, I have a question maybe someone can help me with? At school in my class my teacher usually takes pieces that are naked Raku glazed out before the Raku glazed (normal Raku glazed such as copper sand, reynolds wrap, etc) have reached temperature. With that in mind, I didn't know that Naked Raku needed to be done at a lower temperature than other Raku glazes; but is it possible to combine a piece that say has 80% reynolds wrap and then a small section that has been naked raku (painted on)? I am wondering if the worst that would happen is that the Naked raku would all chip/peel off leaving that area exposed, which case would just turn black from the smoke when in the reduction chamber...but was just curious if anyone had used those types of glazes together and if so, what was the result? thank you C.
  14. I found a bisque piece that I like, it is a small oval tile for lack of better description that has a butterfly scene on it, the other like it has a hummingbird on it, but I wanted to make my own mold for them, so I can press clay and make duplicates to raku; that was the purpose; they came from a local ceramic store that does not sell greenware, nor do they fire to cone 06 for Raku, so I thought it should be easy to make my own or make a mold from them.... they were inexpensive, so thought I would give it a whirl. thanks both for the help C.
  15. Hi All, I have searched and looked at other threads, and found that most people recommend vaseline or tincture of green soap, or murphy's oil soap as a release agent when making a plaster of paris mold from a bisque piece. I googled this topic and watched a few video's on how to do it, but I didn't find exactly a tutorial or video for ceramic bisque - so my question is - how do you do this when using ceramic bisque? Do I 1) Mix the plaster of paris as indicated 2) coat the bisque piece with release agent and place it in the bottom of my mold tray, mold facing to be duplicated side up 3) pour plaster mix delicately around and eventually over the top of my bisque piece 4) wait until plaster starts to harden (need more information on this, carton says to wait an hour....??) 5) flip over and remove bisque piece 6) let plaster mold harder 24 hours before using is that the correct process? I guess my question is I am not sure how to use the release agent. I am assuming I just cover my piece that is intended to be duplicated (bisque)? Any information is much appreciated thank you C.
  16. Thank you both, I did find the other thread after I had asked the question.....I didn't think about it the way you both mentioned...maybe it is best that I don't have a lot of holiday items. I do mostly horse hair and Raku, that is what I like, and what captures my interest; not too good at wheel throwing yet, so can't really take functional pottery at this point. Thank you both - advice appreciated Charlene
  17. Hi all I am trying to find a few small holiday bazaars to go to this year; my focus is mainly pet hair and raku pottery. RIght now, I don't have a lot of items that are "holiday themed"....but I wanted to know from those of you that attend these things often, what seem to be your most popular sellers? are they ornaments? Mugs? If you do Raku...what would you suggest taking? Sinec the economy is down, I was going to try to take and make a lot of items under the $35 range, and have a lot of items in the $20 range - but can anyone give me ideas what seem to move the best? thank you for any input / advice you might have - this was SPUR OF THE MOMENT and I don't have much time to get much done in addition to my current inventory - but a good chance to make some extra money if I can figure something out C.
  18. Thanks, I should have added that I am throwing with Laguna B-Mix......that is what we are using in class, so that is what I was thinking of using for terra sig. C.
  19. Hi all, I think that I may have seen this posted somewhere else at one time, but I searched for it and didn't find the answer; Traditionally, I see that terra Sig is made from OM-4 ball calys; is it possible to use the clay/water left over from wheel throwing and add the other neccessary ingredients to make Terra Sig? Any thoughts would be appreciated.....potting on a tight budget but wanted to try to make some terra sig with just a few basic colors of mason stains.... Thanks again C.
  20. Actually, I was just going to maybe try to make some small indoor ones; decorative and small water feature for desktop or table top....we used to have something made out of planters that was indoor, and I loved it....so was just thinking...thanks all Charlene
  21. Hi all I know raku glazes are not fired hot enough to make clay non porous; or better said the clay after firing is still porous. I want to make a water fountain and I love the metallic results that various raku glazes/firing work; can I go ahead and fire my raku pieces for a fountain and use like a polyurethane coating to make it water resistant? Any ideas appreciated... Thank you Charlene
  22. What is Fimo? I am looking for a mold smaller than 2X2, I do leatherwork also, Tandy doesn't have anything that will work, but thanks for the suggestion - 4X4 is too large for what I need - back to the drawing board.....
  23. Hi all, I can't carve to save my life; I have been looking all over the internet for small candy molds, or other types of molds of a bucking bronc/cowboy and bull rider to no avail. I am looking for something about 1.75 inches tall, and even if I could just get silhoutte form would be a start. I tried to get drawings off of the internet, trace that on my clay, let my clay harden a little, then carve the outline, and I can't even do that right..... I emailed a few people on Etsy that make candy molds and they quoted me $50 each for a small mold with very little detail of what I am looking for....does anyone else have any other ideas? I tried searching soap molds, candy molds, ceramic molds (none that small).....I tried to make my own.....there are no cookie cutters that small that I can find; anyone have any suggestions? I want them to help decorate some of my larger items but there has to be something out there for those of us that are not artistic :0) Charlene
  24. Thanks all for the input....it all makes sense - maybe just stick with the plastic liner. I think maybe I am making this too hard and too time consuming; I guess if they like the pot, they will buy the pot glazed interior or not.....when I first found out they were decorative only my reaction was a little "bummed" just because I thought that would limit the appreciation.....I have also learned a LOT since then, and love the RAKU, and know more now, and appreciate more now.....but john Q Public sometimes doesn't care to be educated on WHY things aren't glazed or usable.....so was just curious what other people do... to glaze or not to glaze....thanks all!
  25. Thanks Chris - I guess point taken; I was thinking for some reason that if I glazed the insides of the pots they might sell better for people that don't understand RAKU? do you ever have a problem selling larger (or any) vases that are not water tight? I am pretty new to RAKU and love it, but just wonder if/what people's reactions are to vases that they can't use, or have to use with dry flowers, or with plastic liners rather than like a traditional vase? Advice is appreciated, maybe I am doing that extra step for nothing, or worrying for nothing and shouldn't worry about glazing the inside? Charlene
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