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About cstovin

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  1. I understand the average weights of clay for a 12oz mug; but given a very general / usual mug; fairly straight walls, etc - nothing fancy - how tall and wide is the average 12 oz mug before firing? Nevermind - I didn't look close enough lol
  2. One more question though - if a wax resist is used, say on the mugs that are red and have the bottoms un-glazed....is that food safe? Are there any worries about getting someone sick? What about if that was done on a plate?
  3. Thank you so much, and thank you for giving me the recipe on how to mix it; I was especially lacking on that!! Appreciate the time and help C.
  4. Hi there I have no idea if this is the right place for this, OR if these questions have already been answered - I searched, but couldn't find what I was looking for I wanted to know how to use Red Iron Oxide in sections of a regularly glazed piece (see attachments), such as a coffee cup with a red iron oxide section.... 1) How/what is the suggested ration for mixing up red iron oxide to be used as a glaze? 2) Do I do the red iron oxide part of the glazing first, then add the rest of the glaze? (see picture for better idea of what I am trying to explain) 3) There are also pieces that appear to be raw clay in parts of the piece, and then regular glaze? (see white and red tree photo and green coffee cup with faint tree lines) - are these types of works still covered in some sort of oxide? Or is it really just un-glazed areas of the work?
  5. Hi all One more question I wanted to make some mugs, and either add another small slab to the top of the mug that has a saying on it, or carve a saying directly into the mug How you get the words to be smooth? Is there a tool that makes this kind of thing easier? I can see using a needle tool, but it always leaves slag. If I used a slab/plate and attached that to the mug, it is better to use waterslide/decal paper? Are stamps the preferred method? Also, my handwriting stinks I searched the site, but it didn't return what I was looking for, but I am sure someone posted something here like this before
  6. you guys are GREAT - so much work for something so basic lol
  7. thank you all, a lot of good ideas; this seems more complicated than I thought it would be lol I actually tried searching for bisque frames, but I need an opening for a 8x10 photo; all I can find is mostly 4x6 or 3.5x5"; so that doesn't really help much I have a customer that wanted 2 photo frames, horse haired - and I just can't seem to get the frames made. Granted it is harder for me to do on bisque - but at least that was an easier and much quicker option
  8. Hello all this seems like it should be easy, and I tend to make things harder than they need to be; I have to make two picture frames that have an 8X10 opening; what I am struggling with - how do you assemble the easel and glass? around the opening do I trim 1/8" so when the glass is inserted, it sits flush with the bisque after the clay is fired? Do you glue the easel back onto the back of the frame? Any help/suggestions would be great - it really can't be this hard
  9. Thank you - will read the blog you posted (GEP)....I did read that standing gives a much better presence than sitting - will try that I just started pottery a few years ago, most of the items I have now are decorative; I know I need more functional things, which will help. Maybe that is a followup question - if you have items that are more "decorative" - how do you sell a vase lol; I have done hang tags which has been suggested on here, I also have setup examples which has helped. One more question - what do you do with your items that are not 100%? Example: I had some jewelry cups for earrings and brushes that the glaze was too think n the bottom; they are still nice and functional, just not as perfect as I like. do you put them on a "markdown" shelf? Do you throw them away so you don't have a "shelf of shame" lol - thank you all - appreciate the help C.
  10. Hi all; I have been doing craft fairs for a little while, and I have a decent product; my downfall is the selling point; I have tried to find older posts - for some reason, my "forum" now displays horribly like old HTML layout - which makes this impossible - but how do you engage customers, without running them off, but at the same time, acknowledging them and increasing sales? I always greet them, watch body language to see how to proceed next; I don't pounce on them if they are "just looking"...but I can't seem to find a way that works for me....any suggestions?
  11. Thank you, I have called Cress and wasn't too impressed with the help; they also do not have a manual. they directed me to their website, which manuals do not have the specified controls/combination of controls that mine has
  12. Hi all I have a cress 25P for the life of me I can't figure out how to run; my pottery teacher said that firing it for pottery isn't going to work, it is more a "hobby kiln", but I am sure they are able to fire to cone 6 it has a temperature wheel, a thumb-wheel numbered I think 1-10; and the hourly timer. the hour and temperature timer I think I get. what their instructions are lacking, is information about the thumb wheel There is also a setting on the side that you can set to fire faster or slower So, here is the question, how is the thumb wheel supposed to work? If I fire on the slowest speed, put the temperature at cone 6; once the thumb wheel has reached 10, does the kiln shut off? ANY HELP would be appreciated - I just can't get a clear picture of how this is supposed to work; have a manual, but it doesn't have any information on this specific configuration thanks in advance
  13. Hi everyone, I have a glaze recipe that is yellow, with dark specks/streaks in it; It says the specks/streaks are "Iron Spangles" I googled that, and found that iron spangles: Iron oxides give a wide range of colours ranging from honey yellow, brownish reds, black, purple dependent on firing conditions. In reduction a blue colour is possible. - Iron spangles are actually LARGER pieces of iron oxide I can't find any place in US where they sell them, only sites in the UK; anyone know how I could/would get my fingers on some?
  14. I was trying to find out what mid-fire glaze combinations you could use with a black or red engobe? I can't remember what they used to do at the art center I used to go to; and I can't find much information on using engobes with mid-fire glazes.
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