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  1. Ideal studio setup

    Wow thanks dh Potter, Denice & Pres, some brilliant suggestions that I simply wouldn't have thought of. Denice, I have an electric front loader and its always damp here in the west coast of Ireland, so much so my kiln is starting to rust in my current studio. Oiled tops, brilliant Ive always used canvas but yes so dusty! Thanks so much this has really helped, as always Julia
  2. I am fortunate to be getting a brand new studio, lucky me! its 32ft x 16ft and will be an empty shell. Im looking for peoples recomendations for setting up an ideal studio setup, ie where to put things, dry /wet area. Ill be holding workshops in it during the summer as well as making my own work. Im looking also for the best way to incorporate a drying area. Thanks so much Julia
  3. Hi all, Ive two questions which probably should be in different sections but easier to do as one. So first is there a way to hide the joints between two slabs? Second is there a way to make eathenware waterproof? Thanks for your wisdom, Julia
  4. Strange brown specks !

    As always id be lost without this forum and all the expert advice. Just opened the kiln and the spots have been cured ( read burned out ) Thanks everybody Julia
  5. firing schedule needed

    Hi I think I didnt convert F - C ( Im in Ireland so we use C) Thanks Neil, I wish you were over here so you could just programme it for me!!, I need my own technician
  6. Strange brown specks !

    Thanks Guys, Im learning as I go Julia
  7. Strange brown specks !

    Sorry my photo won't load. They are like measals and cover all the slabs, look like they are in the clay. Julia
  8. Hi all If anyone can identify these funny brown specks I'd appreciate it. They are on a white earthenware that I had fired up to 200C over a few hours and then candled I did this to eliminate the moisture as I had had big problems when firing before with explosions. I usually just bisque fire and haven't noticed these specks before. The slabs are resting on silica sand which I haven't used before either. Thanks Julia
  9. firing schedule needed

    Hi Neil I mean it can be programmed to reach a temp in a certain amount of time then another temp in a given time, then a holding time then a cooling time. It has pre programmes but these are too fat for what I want.
  10. Hi all, I had a problem with slabs, not too thick , cracking and exploding. From posting in this forum on another thread i realized that my firing schedule was too fast. I need to drive off any moisture in the slabs. I have a Nabertherm B130 controller which has 4 ramps and two temp ramps. Im looking for recommendation for a firing schedule, that will drive off moisture. I can candle but then i cant bisque fire in same schedule as there isnt enough temp ramps. Any help very much welcome. thanks Julia
  11. Help my slabs are cracking up

    Hi again, Ive the kiln loaded, but due to all the good advice here I need to reschedule the firing schedule. I think it was heating too rapidly causing explosions and cracks. So I have a Nabatherm B130 controller with 4 ramps and a possible two temp points Can anyone suggest a firing schedule, Bisque or should I candle and cool then bisque.? I cant do both in one firing given the number of ramps/ heat..... I think Thanks for your time Julia
  12. Help my slabs are cracking up

    Hi Charlotte, Thanks for all that information. Its good to know, Im nervous about firing the tiles in fact theyre still drying. I dont want to risk firing too soon and have the disaster I had last time. Just a quick question, do you use silica sand under the tiles to allow movement. I got some recently and havent used before. Not sure do I put an evn layer under the tile or little piles. Thanks Julia
  13. Help my slabs are cracking up

    Marcia and glazenerd, Thanks so much. Marcia the photos make so much more sense now, for some mad reason I had a picture in my head of lots of vertical sticks supporting the slabs so thanks for posting. glazenerd great information Im off to the studio to try this, the things you learn on this site are amazing. Julia
  14. Help my slabs are cracking up

    Hi Denice, thanks for your help, The drying time here takes forever, its currently lashing rain!! I suppose I was putting them on that late stage to avoid deforming them when handling them. I will try a bit earlier. I probably do have a book however I find this site excellent for getting questions answered, so much Knowledge and experience. Julia
  15. Help my slabs are cracking up

    Thanks to everyone who has taken the trouble to help out with this. Im sort of self taught when it comes to the technical side of things which is why Im making mistakes. In response to your comments. JosephF I was always under the impression that air bubbles / trapped air causes explosions! thanks for the info that it doesnt. Min Yes your right I didnt score both sides, I'll take that on board, thank you. Tricetra Yes Ive heard of using silica for underneath, Would I spread it evenly under the whole slab or as little even piles? I thought it was preferable to allow the air /heat to circulate under the slab, which is why I was using broken kiln shelf pieces as support. Ill introduce pin holes through the slab where the thick pieces are, thank you. Marcia I dont believe the slab is that thick it about 4mm and then approx 8mm where the deco is attatched. Your drying method is interesting, do you have a photo of the sticks to give me an idea. I havent heard of the coils before but will try and see if my supplier has them. You havent heard of Scarva because they are my usual suppliers based in Northern Ireland. They make their own glazes etc, Im based in the South. Typically how long would everyone give a slab to dry 30 x30 cm, 8mm thick at its thickest but mostly 4mm thick. If I used Marcias method of drying on sticks and wrapped in plastic? I have a Nabetherm kiln, I usually keep to the programme as its always been fine before but Ill try and work out how to reprogramme to slow down the drying at the start. Thanks again Julia

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