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eoteceramics

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Everything posted by eoteceramics

  1. Hi Neil I mean it can be programmed to reach a temp in a certain amount of time then another temp in a given time, then a holding time then a cooling time. It has pre programmes but these are too fat for what I want.
  2. Hi all, I had a problem with slabs, not too thick , cracking and exploding. From posting in this forum on another thread i realized that my firing schedule was too fast. I need to drive off any moisture in the slabs. I have a Nabertherm B130 controller which has 4 ramps and two temp ramps. Im looking for recommendation for a firing schedule, that will drive off moisture. I can candle but then i cant bisque fire in same schedule as there isnt enough temp ramps. Any help very much welcome. thanks Julia
  3. Hi again, Ive the kiln loaded, but due to all the good advice here I need to reschedule the firing schedule. I think it was heating too rapidly causing explosions and cracks. So I have a Nabatherm B130 controller with 4 ramps and a possible two temp points Can anyone suggest a firing schedule, Bisque or should I candle and cool then bisque.? I cant do both in one firing given the number of ramps/ heat..... I think Thanks for your time Julia
  4. Hi Charlotte, Thanks for all that information. Its good to know, Im nervous about firing the tiles in fact theyre still drying. I dont want to risk firing too soon and have the disaster I had last time. Just a quick question, do you use silica sand under the tiles to allow movement. I got some recently and havent used before. Not sure do I put an evn layer under the tile or little piles. Thanks Julia
  5. Marcia and glazenerd, Thanks so much. Marcia the photos make so much more sense now, for some mad reason I had a picture in my head of lots of vertical sticks supporting the slabs so thanks for posting. glazenerd great information Im off to the studio to try this, the things you learn on this site are amazing. Julia
  6. Hi Denice, thanks for your help, The drying time here takes forever, its currently lashing rain!! I suppose I was putting them on that late stage to avoid deforming them when handling them. I will try a bit earlier. I probably do have a book however I find this site excellent for getting questions answered, so much Knowledge and experience. Julia
  7. Thanks to everyone who has taken the trouble to help out with this. Im sort of self taught when it comes to the technical side of things which is why Im making mistakes. In response to your comments. JosephF I was always under the impression that air bubbles / trapped air causes explosions! thanks for the info that it doesnt. Min Yes your right I didnt score both sides, I'll take that on board, thank you. Tricetra Yes Ive heard of using silica for underneath, Would I spread it evenly under the whole slab or as little even piles? I thought it was preferable to allow the air /heat to circulate under the slab, which is why I was using broken kiln shelf pieces as support. Ill introduce pin holes through the slab where the thick pieces are, thank you. Marcia I dont believe the slab is that thick it about 4mm and then approx 8mm where the deco is attatched. Your drying method is interesting, do you have a photo of the sticks to give me an idea. I havent heard of the coils before but will try and see if my supplier has them. You havent heard of Scarva because they are my usual suppliers based in Northern Ireland. They make their own glazes etc, Im based in the South. Typically how long would everyone give a slab to dry 30 x30 cm, 8mm thick at its thickest but mostly 4mm thick. If I used Marcias method of drying on sticks and wrapped in plastic? I have a Nabetherm kiln, I usually keep to the programme as its always been fine before but Ill try and work out how to reprogramme to slow down the drying at the start. Thanks again Julia
  8. Hi Marcia/ Neil, Maybe they are too thick? but not much thicker than the slab. its not possible to fix with glaze as theyre broken into pieces and stuck onto a different part of the slab. I attatched when leather hard by score and slip and its a proffesional Scarva slightly grogged clay. If I hollow out presumably I would then have to make a hole in the back to prevent them exploding. Ill try and get a phot up here although I thought I had attatche done via my phone. Julia
  9. Hi everyone I really need help with this! I am making large slabs 30x30 cm approx with decoration attatched so a 2D effect. I've dried slowly over a week and also used a clay meant to be resistant to cracking / warping. Just got two of them out of the kiln , disaster the pieces attatched to the slab have cracked up and ' jumped' away from where they were attatched. I had broken kiln slab pieces supporting underneath to circulate the heat I'm under pressure now to get them done for a deadline . Any help to sort this problem much appreciated. Julia
  10. Hi, Thanks for all replies Perkolator, Marcia, etc I think you've just saved me a lot of time and hassle. Julia
  11. Hi, Thanks for replies, I'll follow your advice. But do you not get warping if fired on their side? Marcia, what coils do you use? and can they lean at an angle against the bricks? Thanks again. Julia
  12. Hi, I have some large slab pieces approx. 12" x 12". In the past I have had problems when firing ie cracking and explosions. Would using silica sand help and how exactly do I use it? Thanks in advance, Julia
  13. Hi, thanks for going to all that trouble Yes its earthenware and cone 2. It does have a controller so I will attempt to reprogramme to your recommendations and see if its any better. Its hard not to peek but I'll go walk next doors dog ! Thanks again, Julia
  14. Thanks Min, Wow I really thought they were dry, I did the moisture test with my finger and they seemed ok, but I guess not I fire to 1140 °over approx. 12hrs about 100°an hour with a half hour soak. I don't open the door until its under 200°and even then just for a peek. I also never used to cover while drying as It takes so long anyway but will start doing this now. I have to confess these two pieces were left out in the rare sunshine for an hour or two just t speed it up so I suppose that didn't help matters.
  15. Hi, these are the pieces after I took them from the kiln. Pic 2 seems to have just cracked straight across with the attached pieces coming away from the surface. In the first one the piece has seemingly crumbled in one part as well as the smaller pieces coming away from the surface, very curious as to what has caused the crumbling. Any ideas very welcome. Julia
  16. Thanks for replies it was a bisque firing and yes gravity was on my side. Unfortunatley the pieces are broken and unable to glue with glaze. Marcia I might have a photo later. Julia
  17. Hi everyone, so Ive just opened the kiln and its not good. I had two large tile pieces which smaller pieces attached on by scoring , slipping wiggling and pressing down really well. Or so I thought the smaller 'attached' pieces have come away from the surface tile making them only fit for the ceramic grave yard. Ive made a piece similar before and Is been fine and the thing is I have three more pieces ready be fired. Can anyone shed any light as to why this is happening? Im certain they are dry and I took extra care in fixing them on, all help much appreciated. Julia
  18. Hi everyone, I accidentally fired earthenware clay to 1300°, oops. Its all stuck to the kiln bats and I need help in how to clean it all up. There is also one piece fused to a kiln brick. Its a big mess and a lot of work lost. I would really appreciate any help on this. thanks Julia
  19. Hhi everyone , I hope someone can help with this question. I am making pieces for the garden and so using stoneware and high bisque firing. However the glazes I want to use are firing around 1040, really bright colours. Will the fact that its an earthenware glaze on stoneware be a problem, ie will it fire to the correct colour? Thanks Julia
  20. Thanks for your replies, I have an electric kiln seancisse
  21. Hi, Can any one tell me which oxide will give me a dark blue colour, I need this to pick out texture in a piece. Thanks, Julia
  22. thanks for all your help everybody, I may try to make my own with the Mason stains although I hate the technical stuff. I found them in 'the big ceramic store' but unclear if they ship to Ireland .
  23. Hi all, I hope someone can help with this. I came across some work by a potter who said she used chalks over slip to draw on bisque. I can't remember her name but her work was beautiful. Im trying o find these chalks myself, does anyone have any experience of using them and any other info about them. I have tried the crayons which were useless as was the pencils. I cant find them in my usual supplier (Ireland) or the UK. Thanks Julia
  24. Thanks for replies, I think some test pieces will have to be done!
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