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dhPotter

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About dhPotter

  • Rank
    Advanced Member

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Duck Hill, MS
  • Interests
    Deer and Turkey hunting(we eat deer through out the year), Cooking(I am the cook), Football(watching), Observing Nature
  1. yunomi.jpg

    This is PRETTY. It has so many textures. I can see rubbing my hand all over it while drinking from it. Keep it up, Joseph F. Looking good!
  2. Andros, How to Repair cracks in bone dry ware Spooze; 1/3 your clay body 1/3 vinegar 1/3 Caro syrup or other cheap sugar syrup. The ware MUST be bone dry for this to work. I used it on leather hard and it did not work. With the same piece I waited till bone dry and it worked. Mix it up. Put it on to repair. Let dry and sand. dab or spritz vinegar on, before using that recipe. I will say, that recipe works wonders. I've used it to reattach small pieces, that I just loaded into the kiln. I do mix a little tissue/ toilet paper with the vinegar, before adding the other ingredients though.
  3. JohnnyK if you do a -45* TC offset you will be asking the controller to add 45* more heat. If it is 70* room temp the controller will think it is 25* room temp.
  4. When I attended a workshop of Steven Hill's our sprayed bisque ware was packed into the kiln as soon as we finished spraying around 6 pm Saturday. They took the kilns up rather quickly but did the Stephen Hill glaze fire schedule. Sunday morning at around 800*F they propped the lid. When they unloaded a few hours later we had to use towels to keep from burning ourselves. Watching Matt Katz' video on crazing he said it doesn't matter when taking things out of the kiln. If a glaze is going to craze it will not be because of early kiln opening. curt, I am with you, it is chemistry.
  5. JosephF created that thread. He had done some research for an economics class. this is a copy of it I had saved... The Psychology of Pricing When I was in school we studied this for a good half of the semester. There is a huge factor on the last digit of prices. For example: 97 and 99 are both the discount price numbers where people feel like they are getting a better deal, it is no surprise to me you both are selling better at 17 and 19 then 20. Both of those numbers end with 7 or 9. Which are usually used in discount pricing. So people infer deal. Almost all the research we did showed that if you wanted to have something be super expensive and people buy it. Never end it with a 7 or 9, always with a 0. If you price something way too high and end it with a 9, it wont sell as well. For example if you price a high dollar mug at 59 dollars. It will sell less well than priced at 60. It's absurd I know. But that's what all our research proved, and this was an entire class dedicated to pricing. I prefer the 8's. 28, 38, 48, 58. All the best prices. When I sold a few mugs on etsy. My prices started at 35. I lowered them to 30, sold only 1 mug. Lowered to 25. Sold no mugs. Raised to 28. Sold almost all my mugs I had listed. It was a small sample size, but I plan on testing it again in the coming months.
  6. Cone 6 call today-no help

    Our electricity is like Nerd's, cheap. Rural, co-op, AG area. To fire the 7 cu ft electric kiln to ^6 is about $5.00 per load. Really I was amazed, thought the kiln would pull a lot more electricity for the firing. Mississippi does have a Nuclear power plant, Port Gibson. Really I should have solar panels for as much sun as we get.
  7. Glazes That Break

    ...I think rutile does this break to brown. At least the remedy to breaking brown is to replace rutile with titanium dioxide. I think...
  8. IMG_1220.JPG

    very nice flowing form. Love the handle detail
  9. Lepidolite

    Some people are reading between the lines WAY TOO MUCH. John merely did a calculation. He did not put a for sale sign up. Not one person offered to sell anything. Picking out "business" in this thread is like picking out "business" from the throwing rib thread. Everyone has a MudTools rib. But not one person offered it up for sale. IMHO
  10. Sputty, Holds the chill longer? The drinks seem colder and the second drink is definitely colder - less ice.
  11. Yes it does. Could not find a pic of Matt Long's whiskey cup. I have his video where he shows how to make this. Here is my knock-off whiskey cup.
  12. If the wall was pulled up and in a bit and the rim not scallop the shape would be similar to Matt Long's whiskey cup.
  13. 20171109_162156.jpg

    Beautiful ombre.
  14. single firing, cone 6 stoneware

    If you are spraying onto greenware, having your Specific Gravity between 1.50 and 1.60 will help the application. I pour glaze for closed forms, then let the pieces dry overnight before glazing the outsides. For bowls I will spray the outside first then flip it over and spray the inside. I have never had the greenware bloat from water or have glaze falling off. The biggest change, for me going to single fire, was remembering to handle the piece with dry hands. And the amount of glaze to apply to greenware - it takes more glaze. Like OldLady I am walking close to the edge. Self taught. There was no easing in to single fire - I jumped in with both feet - never even thought about altering the glaze - all 28 of them.
  15. single firing, cone 6 stoneware

    Use the same glazes you have always used. If spraying glazes onto greenware look for, thank you OldLady, a "chunky velvet" surface to know when enough glaze has been applied. Change your glaze firing schedule to incorporate these 2 segments at the start of the schedule. Or not. This was taken from Steven Hill. Segment Rate F*/HR Temp Hold 1 200 220 30-60 2 100 500 0 This is chunky velvet. Notice the glaze cracking. The glaze is a tiny bit too thick in that spot. Below is after the glaze firing...
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