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dhPotter last won the day on December 29 2016

dhPotter had the most liked content!

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About dhPotter

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    Advanced Member

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  • Gender
  • Location
    Duck Hill, MS
  • Interests
    Deer and Turkey hunting(we eat deer through out the year), Cooking(I am the cook), Football(watching), Observing Nature
  1. Wedging Table Design...

    Bolt it to the wall. Use concrete board, Hardiboard, and be sure to put a 1/2 inch piece of plywood between the hardiboard and your 2x4 frame for supporting the hardiboard. Also, sponge down the hardiboard before wedging as it will suck the moisture out of the clay. Wearing the shoes you normally wear while doing pottery and standing on the flooring that will be in front of your wedging table, with hands held at your side, measure from the floor to the middle of your hand. This measurement is the finished height of the wedging table. With the height measurement at the front of the wedging table, slant the table 15 degrees back toward the wall. This slant utilizes your body weight more when wedging and the slant is easier on your wrists.
  2. The other day I gave a mug to my bone doc. The first thing he did was turn it over and look at he bottom. Many years ago, a sculptor professor looked at one of my mugs. Turned it over to look at the bottom. I had my pottery mark on it but did not sign the pot. He said always sign your pots because the average user will think it is machine made without your signature. I sold a platter to a customer that I work with. The platter was signed and had the pottery mark. Not good enough. They were mad because I had not dated the piece. I use the china pencils to make my signature on greenware. I do single fire glazing.
  3. Assembling the Survivor: No. 2 in the Hidden Mask Series

    This is really neat. Reminds me of a French Masters painting whose name alludes me. Very nicely presented with the picture frame. Very nice!
  4. Part 1 of "No Secrets": No. 5 of the Hidden Mask Series

    Love the color choices and placements of color and love the textures
  5. Company

    Food plots keep more deer going thru the winter. Before food plots were popular the winter would thin the herd.
  6. Iron Reactive Transparent Glaze

    Tamas, This glaze looks like a Nutmeg. Bill Van Gilder has a nutmeg recipe. Tyler, his recipe has Spodumene 23.3%
  7. Joseph, Excellent !! Like OldLady said your 10th will be stunning. way to go, potter
  8. About 3 years ago, either in the Ceramics Monthly or Pottery Making Illustrated, a potter used a plumbing gasket, I think it was, a plumbing something, to put inside the rim while he was throwing these kind of pots. The gasket gave a rigid structure so the rim would not cave in. Good Luck!
  9. Meant to say the 2050*F, according to GlazeNerd, is the point at which the clay does some weird stuff. Going thru this temp slowly is supposed to greatly help. It did for me but I had to add Min's hold at 2100 to get rid of all the pinholes. It had been expressed to about 125* from the 2050 till ^ temp. Your present schedule does this. Maybe just adding the 2067 hold for 10 minutes will get you pinhole free. You certainly will get thru that magic number slowly with your proposed new schedule. With you stopping at 1676 then forward at 108* will add 4.5 hours to your schedule. Any reason for stopping at 1676*?
  10. Pinholes were fairly common for me also. After the urging of GlazeNerd, I changed the glaze fire schedule to stop climbing at 400*F per hour when the kiln hit to 2050*F. Then climb at 108*F per hour to 2190*F and hold 15 minutes. Then I added Min's downfire hold at 2100*F for 10 minutes. No pinholes.
  11. JohnBaymore Submission Grouping High Risk High Reward 2017

    Excellent grouping. Love the green piece in the foreground. Good Luck!
  12. Attaching Dry Pieces To Each Other

    I have done 3 goblets and 1 mug handle. The join seems stronger then the clay itself. Try it. Before I started single firing, some pieces were bisqued before glazing. Now that I am single firing 2 goblets were done like this and worked. In fact, after glazing the liner of a set of goblets, I realized 2 of them were the patched up ones. I was oblivious to any difference in handling. I am sure one of our resident chemists could tell us why the vinegar is needed.
  13. Attaching Dry Pieces To Each Other

    The syrup makes the concoction very sticky. The handle will hold. I had not heard that about drying slowly after using spooze. The goblet I used this on, I let open air dry overnight and glazed it the next day. I have also used this for a handle on a mug. The 2 pieces MUST be bone dry. I tried fixing a mug when it was almost dry. The handle came off. Waited till bone dry and the handle stayed connected.
  14. Attaching Dry Pieces To Each Other

    Spooze 1/3 dried clay, the clay used to make the mug and handle 1/3 Karo syrup, or any cheap syrup 1/3 white vinegar mix all up. Spritz the joining areas with vinegar prior to attaching. Smear the spooze on both pieces, attach. Hold for 30 seconds. Let dry. The area may need sanding, depending on how much spooze was slathered on and wehter it squirted out. Then bisque, or glaze if doing single fire. I used this on a goblet that had dried too much before attaching the stem. Of course the goblet broke off at the join. Applied spooze and then handled the greenware goblet with gusto. Pouring in/ out glaze for the liner then spraying glaze for a single fire. You cannot tell it was broke.
  15. IMG 6419

    Joseph, When dipping was all I knew, I was always bummed by the glazing session and by the glaze fire results. Then I started noticing those piece from those who spray. Had the spraygun for 6 months before trying it, fear of the unknown. Now, there is no going back to the dipping. There was a transition and a learning curve for spraying greenware. More glaze testing. But now that is over and it is getting on with making!