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fergusonjeff

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  1. wheel movement

    Neil. What are your thoughts on the ssx drive?
  2. wheel movement

    Neil, thanks for the chart. I am contemplating a new wheel. Based on the torque numbers why would anyone bother with the more than 1/3 hp Thomas Stuart?
  3. wheel movement

    The slowing is a function of drag, not so much clay weight. I can slow it down with just a pound or two but I can also keep it at full speed centering 10-12 pounds. I never understood how centering weight is calculated when there are so many variables involved.
  4. wheel movement

    Pres, I think there is a misunderstanding. When the foot pedal is not engaged, the Shimpo Whisper can move freely (by hand) in either direction. It does not move at random. When the pedal is stopped the wheel stops. This is a very useful feature. Here is the description of the feature as a selling point: "Wheelhead Turns Freely at 0 RPM / Serves as a banding wheel". What you are talking about is a problem on an old Shimpo I have (RK-1, I think). I am constantly adjusting this pedal so that stop means stop. The wheel head on this older wheel does not move by hand when the motor is stopped. This is the problem. When I tried a Brent and a Pacifica the wheel head could move, but it took some force. Sorry for the lack of clarity in my initial post. Thanks, Jeff
  5. wheel movement

    I currently have a Shimpo Whisper and really like the wheel. The only limitation has been slowing down with even just a few pounds (not a really big problem). I really like that when the wheel is stopped (not necessarily turned off) the wheel head spins freely like a banding wheel. I end up using this a lot to spin the piece for texturing or just to remove bats and many other tasks. This is one of the only electric wheels I have used and I am thinking this is not a common feature. I tried spinning a few other wheels and they do not spin easily. Are there other wheels available that have this free-spinning feature? Thanks, Jeff
  6. Wood firing conversations?

    Short firings are not necessarily a bad thing. You can still get nice flashing and just use sprinkled ash/feldspar mix on a dampened pot surface to create ash buildup similar to longer firings. Some university folks I fire with here like to use gas to get pretty high (university pays the gas bill but does not split the wood) before finishing with just 5-8 hours of wood.
  7. I think Biglou13 is correct about the slow ramp and "loose" nature of most wood fire wadding is correct. I have done a couple minor preheats on propane just to get a little of the moisture out. My wadding is usually 1/3 fireclay, 1/3 sand, and 1/3 organics (usually sawdust or wheat bran) so there is lots of ways for any moisture to move around. I do make large cone packs from a version of the wadding with much more clay and I let those dry before firing.
  8. Bloaty Mc-Bloatface

    I think ditching the clay is the best option. I had a similar locally-made cone 5/6 buff clay that bloated even worse than yours at cone 6. I was trying out at least 10 other cone 6 clays and did not have any issues with any of them. tried different bisque tricks and it did not help. I stopped using it, but the small amount of it in the mixed trimmings continued to haunt me for months. The clay might have worked at cone 5, but my other clays and glazes were all great at cone 6 and the only advantage of this bloaty clay was that it was a couple cents cheaper per pound. Not worth it.
  9. Wood firing conversations?

    Here is fine. Not much discussion on wood firing on this site, but I look forward to it.
  10. Recommended electric potter's wheel

    I have a VL Whisper and have been using it intensively for about 5 years. Anything over about 5 pounds will slow down a little while centering if the slip runs out. The slow down is minor and if there is enough water it is hardly noticeable. I also center pretty aggressively so this might be even less noticeable to others. I don't recall it slowing down while doing anything other than centering. Even aggressive lifts on 15 pound bowls did not have any problems.
  11. Slip design over chattering?

    Yes, the large "petal" shapes are thin pieces of mostly transparent fish.
  12. Kiln brick question

    This may end up being a great purchase. They look like standard straights (9" x 4.5" x 2.5"). $0.50 per brick is a great deal if they are high-duty or better. Chances are they are super-duty bricks or even higher. I ended up using a mix of high, super, and whatever is even higher than that in my wood kiln. The only downside to higher-temp bricks is some can be very difficult to cut. I used a circular saw with a masonry blade to cut bricks and a regular high-duty brick will cut in just a couple seconds. The really hard bricks could take minutes and eat up a lot of the masonry disk.
  13. What are you putting the mugs on after you cut them off the hump? I have had more even drying if a put them onto a large plaster bat.
  14. Mixing Pugmills

    I have started mixing clays in my small peter pugger (VPM-20) and usually make about a 35 pound batch at a time. It is not quite as simple as just throwing in the powder and water and then making the clay. If I had a mixer (like a solder) I would use it to mix and then send it through the pugger. The pug mill tends to need about 80-90% capacity for it to mix, otherwise it just spins a large ball. The same pointless spinning can occur just from water additions. It takes a while to figure out how to break the spinning and start mixing again. The larger sized peter-puggers might be much more efficient for mixing clays from dry ingredients. Mark, have you used your larger pugger for mixing clays from dry ingredients?
  15. Salt Fired Pieces In Electric Kiln

    Marcia, Thanks. I have only done it twice, so hopefully not too much damage. I plan to refire some of the better pieces in the wood kiln, so I will stop torturing the electric. Jeff
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