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    • Jennifer Harnetty

      Moderators needed!   12/08/2017

      Ceramic Arts Network is looking for two new forum moderators for the Clay and Glaze Chemistry and Equipment Use and Repair sections of the Ceramic Arts Network Community Forum. We are looking for somebody who is an active participant (i.e. somebody who participates on a daily basis, or near daily) on the forum. Moderators must be willing to monitor the forum on a daily basis to remove spam, make sure members are adhering to the Forum Terms of Use, and make sure posts are in the appropriate categories. In addition to moderating their primary sections, Moderators must work as a team with other moderators to monitor the areas of the forum that do not have dedicated moderators (Educational Approaches and Resources, Aesthetic Approaches and Philosophy, etc.). Moderators must have a solid understanding of the area of the forum they are going to moderate (i.e. the Clay and Glaze Chemistry moderator must be somebody who mixes, tests, and has a decent understanding of materials). Moderators must be diplomatic communicators, be receptive to others’ ideas, and be able to see things from multiple perspectives. This is a volunteer position that comes with an honorary annual ICAN Gold membership. If you are interested, please send an email outlining your experience and qualifications to jharnetty@ceramics.org.

Red Rocks

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About Red Rocks

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    Advanced Member

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Sedona, AZ
  • Interests
    Besides pottery - organic gardening, sustainability, perma-culture, golf, visiting other potter's studios and sharing information, along with international travel.
  1. Bought The Square

    Mark C Can you please expand upon the Amazon reader that you are using at 1.6%? I did not know they had one. Thanks
  2. Taxes - Business Or Hobby?

    I spent a lot of years working in the high tech field, most for venture backed start-ups that did not make money for years! So I would agree with the comments in this thread that say, run it like a business and as long as your losses are documented, the IRS can not demand that you be profitable, otherwise a third of Silicon Valley would be put out of business!
  3. I have always done cone 10/11 in gas or wood. About a year ago I took a workshop on Cone 5/6 glazes and have been experimenting ever since. I have developed a number of mid-range glazes along with slips and washes that are really awesome. I also bought two electric kilns to support my new passion. However I still have a large Cone 10 gas kiln that I still periodically fire to cone 10 reduction. I want to test firing the gas kiln in oxidation to cone 6, so I can utilize the kiln more often and fire more pieces for less money. Do you have any idea how close I can come to creating the same glaze results in the gas kiln as to what I am getting in the electric kilns? I have done some research on this but have not been able to find any definitive answers and hate to risk a whole kiln load without having a better understanding of the likely results.
  4. Holding Temp

    Ok to leave the peep open the entire time it is cooling?
  5. Hot Wax For Bottoms Of Pots?

    One other thing that has not been really covered on this topic is the dreaded 'burp" from putting smaller pieces directly in the wax at the wrong angle or too fast, I tend to put the piece in at a slight angle with one side going in first and slowly easing the rest of the piece in and then quickly removing it. If you leave it in just a little too long, it actually burns off some of the wax. I let those cool off and do them again. Would love to hear about tricks people have learned over the years on this technique.
  6. Hot Wax For Bottoms Of Pots?

    I want to go back and reinforce my earlier post. I use hot wax with paraffin based lamp oil in an electric skillet set on warm. This setting is around 150 degrees, so it is not really very hot. `The paraffin lamp oil lowers the melting point and is what allows me to brush the wax on the entire circumference of a 20" platter spinning on a banding wheel in one or two passes. You get a nice clean line and little to no clean up.
  7. Repeat Customers

    Hi Dianna Would be most interested in hearing more about you social media strategy? Most importantly, how do you track your results? I am a big believer in Facebook advertising, so I am always interested in hearing about how other people use it. Thanks
  8. Hot Wax For Bottoms Of Pots?

    There are a couple of waxes mentioned on this thread I am not familiar with - what is bulk prill form and what is soy wax? Where are these found? Thanks
  9. Hot Wax For Bottoms Of Pots?

    I have used both methods ans find latex wax resist a huge waste of time especially for large bowls and platters. You have to let it dry for several hours, better overnight and you still have to clean a lot of glaze off. We now use hot wax with an electric skillet on the "warm" setting. I never have a problem with fumes or smoking and the glaze comes off very quickly. We also add about 1/3 paraffin lamp oil to the mix. This makes the wax stay fluid longer and easier to apply to a large platter spinning on a banding wheel. I also break up a crayon to add color to the wax if am applying to white clay. Makes it much easier to see where your wax line is.
  10. Have you tried using slips on your green ware or washes/stains over the top of your glazes? You can get very dramatic results with washes and can make one glaze look like 4 or 5 different glazes by using slips. Simple, cost-effective and it definitely widens your palette.
  11. Super-Old Glaze: Hardpanned?

    Old Lady: A good question but it was not a new batch of chemicals. I actually glazed 4 or 5 pieces with the new 20,000 gram bucket and they came out perfect. I went back to glazing several days later and the glaze was hard-panned. That is when I added the bentonite and epsom salts. Next firing in a month or so, I will pour out half of the bucket into a a separate bucket and add the Mason Stain #6600 and see how it turns out.
  12. Super-Old Glaze: Hardpanned?

    Couldn't agree more about the low iron and lack of colbalt. However as I am learning to work with a new kiln, I first mixed a 5000 gram batch and it came out a wonderful blue green, then a 10,000 gram batch, again the beautiful blue green I expected. So not sure what causes the blue, just know that it is. It was when I went to the very large bucket and 20,000 grams plus that it did the hard pan number. I actually glazed a few pieces that came out blue green from the large batch, then I made the mistake of putting the additonal bentonite and the Epsom salts in the already mixed batch and that is when it turned light green. I think Tom Coleman's idea makes sense as Mason Stain #6600 is a strong black stain and a little should go a long ways. I will experiment with it before trying to change the 20,000 gram bucket.
  13. Super-Old Glaze: Hardpanned?

    Quick update. I did contact Tom Coleman and he responded very quickly. He said he thought that the Bentonite did indeed effect the glaze and said I should add 25 grams of Mason Stain #6600 to bring it back to blue green. He also said he no longer uses Bentonite or Epsom salts to keep a glaze in suspension. He uses a small amount of muriatic acid like one tablespoon for 20,000 grams. Says it works great. I will try both of these over the next month or so and post and update.
  14. Using Old Ceramic Fiber Blanket

    Thanks for all your comments on this. I am back in Red Rock country after two weeks on the coast. Over the next month, I will tackle this and report back on the process and the results.
  15. I am with Mark - I would choose to work at Hamada's back in the day. The other potter would without a doubt be Marguerite Wildenhain and a week at Pond Farm.
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