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Showing most liked content on 09/11/2017 in all areas

  1. 2 likes
    When I put recipes into the catalog, I always go from most to least, except for the clay (usually EPK) and silica. Clay and silica are always last on the list. By organizing them all that way, I can quickly and easily see which fluxes are being used at the top of the list. I can also easily find the clay content and see how much there is, because that will help determine how big a batch I can mix (more clay = smaller batch), and if I'll need to add flocculant. When making the glaze, like Jospeh said you should always start with the clay, as it helps to keep the other materials from settling out hard at the bottom.
  2. 2 likes
    I think I read somewhere that if your mixing into water, you should start with clay. So that the other materials go into the clay water mixture instead of hard panning at the bottom. I am not sure how correct this is, but this is how I do it: I mix clay, then silica, then feldspars, then colorants.
  3. 1 like
    I'm with Pres, if you can get a guarantee that you'd have a kiln by Thanksgiving, you could start using actual clay. Are you on a 7-8 Period schedule with Semesters? Around Thanksgiving is usually my deadline for wet clay work anyway. After that, it was just underglazing greenware, glazing bisqueware and getting the room cleaned and squared away. If that still won't work, oven-baked clay, may give you better results, than air dried. I can't say for certain, as I've never used either. In regards to material suppliers, knowing your location would allow others to give you better recommendations. For instance, I live in the Midwest, and use Continental Clay. They are a State away, and can get things to me rather fast. You might want to order as soon as possible too. Some items, do not like freezing temps, and some suppliers won't even ship certain things, in the winter months, because of this. Best of Luck!
  4. 1 like
    I've thought about doing molds. might be time to go for it. the head actually breaks and falls off ruining the glaze. I haven't tried the separate parts with the cone shape fitting into a hole in head, just tried it flat, i'll try that. thank you!
  5. 1 like
    Hi teacher77, I taught for 36 years, the last 34 I had Ceramics classes. I usually started the year off with introduction, to clay, terms, tools, and some ceramics history and general knowledge. I had them bring in cardboard boxes, about 18X24, lidded margarine containers for slip, and plastic bags. Most kids just brought in a lidded plastic bin. The margarine container was for slip, and bag to keep clay and pots moist. We usually started with slabs in October, as I had them design their first slab project with preliminary sketches, something like Crooked House, or Spirit house. They did up detailed designs with front and side views that allowed them to scale up everything. We used proportioning tools to make certain that when we started with the clay we knew how large everything was. Worked well, and usually we were working on the second (coil project) in November, and the next two in December, glazing as we went. Yo can make this work as long as you get assurances that you can start firing after Thansksgiving. best, Pres
  6. 1 like

    From the album Random Stuff

    Just opened my kiln today. Most of the pots were not to my liking. I have been trying to add more brown and red areas to the cups. I thought it was something I wanted. After looking at it, it was too much. However I did some layering of some glazes in a different way than normal and I got some really interesting patterns that I really like. Going to further explore this.
  7. 1 like
    I tend to mix largest ingredient to smallest, just because that's the way most of my recipes are written out. Clay tends to be in the top 2-3 ingredients for most things that I mix. I slake everything for at least an hour before I sieve twice. I don't know that it matters greatly, as it all gets pretty well combined in the end. That said, I know there's a couple of ingeredients that need to be treated specifically or they don't suspend properly. Bentonite for sure, but I can't remember some of the others. Maybe someone else can chime in on those?
  8. 1 like
    I agree with Tyler. Breaking real ceramic cups is not safe. Way too many sharp edges.
  9. 1 like
    I was asked to do this two years ago when I fell in with some theatre people. Ceramic is unsuitable for breakaway props. Industry uses a thin acrylic for this. One, because they want non-sharp edges, two because they want something light that won't injure actors or, worse, audience members. The glaze can be sharp, and clay is heavy. Picture Stanley Kowalski's plate smashing and bottle breaking with real ceramic--the actors would need safety glasses Proper breakaway props have nearly no mass, very light. Also, very cheap. Like, a six pack of beer bottles was around $20 USD?
  10. 1 like

    From the album Stoneware Pots

    I have been looking to find a combination of glazes that satisfies what I want in my work. I have to finally say I am 100% satisfied with my work. Finally found a combination of glazes that produce interesting surface effects depending on the thickness of the layering but also have a unique and desirable look. I also really love the layering of fake ash over the top of them to create a more natural aged look. I think this is probably the best pot I have ever made. Only took me three years! Now to get my butt in gear and start selling pots again. Just thought I would share some success. You all have been there rooting me along the whole way. Thanks for that. Cone 6. Single Fired. Red Rock: Highwater Clay. 17 hour firing. Right click image to see large detail shot.