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  3. I've been using some leftover scraps from "Construction Plastic". It's what contractors and such put up, to protect against dust getting out of the work area, to catch paint drips, etc. It's thicker stuff, and keeps the moisture in quite well. It's been so rainy here lately, that my basement stays pretty damp itself. If I just poured some plaster on the floor, it would be one big damp box.
  4. Rust particles (iron) can be all over many surfaces. Check your clay cutting wires-jar lids -vacumme the kiln again as well as the bands around the lid and the lid. It would also help by doing your elemnts with a soft brush on the vacume as well. Seive the glaze-Just think like a small ruct particle . I would also test a pice of clay unglazed to see if the specks are in that body as well in a fire. Since you are using a commercial glaze you have ZERO control other than sieving it. The finer the screen the better for those paricles look really small. looks like rust to me.
  5. are you adding any water to the glaze? Check to see if the iron (or other trace elements) content has increased since you last had pure white glaze. Our water system is having its routine "flushing" for cleaning the distribution piping from corrosion sediments. LT
  6. If putting the glaze through an 80 mesh sieve doesn't solve the problem I would contact Laguna. Let them know everything you've done to solve the issue, glaze and clay batch numbers and your results.
  7. 203 boxes of miscellaneous glazes 24 - 4 oz jars per box need gone quickly. FREE, FREE, FREE Barrie, Ontario
  8. Sneaky? I thought is was rather overt myself. Besides, it is viewership round up month. premium porcelain is 50% grolleg, 25% silica, and 25% Nep Sy. + 2% macaloid (Bentone ma) this is the fix it mix. If you do not have grolleg, then use EPK. EPK will diminish translucency a bit- your call. how much fix it mix you add is directly proportional to the amount of water you use throwing, which equates to how much fines you lose. So you have to make that judgment. For a gallon full of dried reclaim 1/8-1/4 cup of fix it mix will work. Most of the members post pictures of their work in the gallery. I am limited where I can post mine.
  9. OK I have been cleaning out recieptrs long buried -heres is an up date on Old Westwood ceramics receipts before Laguna bought them out price of large cones in 9/1977-2.15 cents per box 1975 1# cobalt carb $7.35 9/1977-back when 100# bags where the norm- #100s of Kingman $6.00 #100 Kentucky ball $6.15 #10 red iron ox. 5.60 Those where the days my friends update bought my second Brent wheel in 4/30/1982 a CXC from Kickwheel Pottery Supply cost delivered $631.70 with splash pan wheel was $570-splash pan $25 shipping $35.70 One last note is I saw an old wholesale tag from 1980 and my ceral bowls where $4 each as well as the mugs.so its all relative .
  10. So much to digest there, THANK YOU. Honestly this kiln has no chill, getting a smooth sane ramp to 1500 is extremely difficult. At least for me at this point in my evolution. Also that digital control panel is mouth watering, and I'm 3 minutes into the video and already my core understanding of reduction is being redefined. Also note that when I do the electric -> reduction chamber route, I take the pieces out at 1750'ish, max. Higher than that and the nitrates seem to burn off. I'll absolutely get some more experiments put together this weekend and ping back with results.
  11. Bought the first one for the HS in mid 80's, and they weren't what I would call cheap back then. . . .the years and popularity has not really increased the price more than inflation. IMHO best, Pres
  12. oh, for heaven's sake! this reads like a sneaky way to advertise your latest contribution to Ceramics Monthly magazine. i am embarrassed. (and that is hard to do!)
  13. bet the receipt for your giffin grip showed a very small amount of money for such a great tool. today they cost as much as my first kiln did, with shelves and posts.
  14. Dearest Oldlady: coleman porcelain actually originated from experimental bodies used at Alfred. This article covers clay recycling, and Coleman in perticular. Premium cone 10 porcelain is 50% grolleg porcelain, 25% silica, 25% Nep Sy, and 2% Macaloid. (BentoneMA) instructions are in the article https://ceramicartsnetwork.org/ceramics-monthly/ceramic-supplies/ceramic-raw-materials/techno-file-clay-restoration/
  15. I wondered if it was rust too. But all the glaze jars are plastic and my brushes don't appear to be rusted on the bands. As mentioned in another comment, I think I need to try sieving the glaze. Surely that will help. Thank you, everyone, for taking the time to reply. I really appreciate it!
  16. we have 203 boxes of 4 ounce jars of these glazes I would give free to a good home. you come and take away. I am in Barrie Ontario Canada.
  17. A recent thread on culture made me think about periods of art history. Being an arm chair historian, I often go through the history of potters before us: Adelaide Robineau's Scarab Vase comes to mind. Historians put art (including pottery) into periods: Medievel, Renaissance, Baroque, and Neo-Clalaasical for instance. (Google "periods in art history"- you will find them) Each period in recent history lasted 100-200 years: the current period began in 1800. So if the period lasts 200 years, that would mean that beginning in 2000 a new period should have begun.....but it has not! Qotw : what name would you ascribe to the current period of art history that began in 2000?
  18. I understand the view, of those opposed to them, as they see it as a crutch, to a process that potters should know. But it is a quick way to center, especially in the bulk, that you are dealing with Mark. It is also a good way to recenter for decorating. I just used mine to day, to recenter a leatherhard piece, right side up, to apply even coats of underglaze. Tap centering that form, right side up, would have been quite difficult. Plus, the feet hold the ware in place, without leaving clay dust on the outside areas, I already underglazed. Also, in my classroom, the Giffen Grip is invaluable. I barely have time to teach the kids to use the wheel to throw the form, so I definitely do not have time to teach them tap centering. So I can still teach trimming, without that extra step and frustration. I still talk about tap centering, and show it to them, I just don't expect them to do it. Regardless, tap centering isn't going anywhere. The Giffen Grip does not work well for altered forms, that aren't symmetrical, and of course, not everyone wants to spend over a hundred bucks, for a Giffen Grip.
  19. Cone 10 porcelain does not have to be fired in reduction, but 99% of people who fire in a gas kiln do so in reduction.
  20. I was going thru an old filing cabinet and found my orginal receipts for my 1st Giffen grip and a letter from Brian the owner thanksing me for buying it. Dated 1984. I know these are still controversial but for me they are (I own 3 of them now as well as the larger one) just another tool in the tool box the past 35 years
  21. are the lids on the glaze containers metal; are you using any metallic containers, tools, brushes, etc. in the glazing steps?
  22. Thinner brick use slightly more electricity, but they cool faster. The other potential issue is that they radiate more heat because they aren't insulated as well. Depending on your space and how it is vented, that may or may not be an issue. If a kiln is rated to cone 10, it will get to cone 10, regardless of the brick thickness. I rarely sell new kilns that aren't 3" brick, but 2.5" brick is not a deal breaker with a used kiln at a good price IMO. L&L's most powerful kilns, the JH crystalline series, are rated for cone 12, but are built with 2.5" brick. The thinner brick allow for faster cooling times, and more precise temperature control.
  23. Plastic from flower shops works the same as dry cleaner bags. joy
  24. I read her statement on FB. She says she's not interesting in passing it off. If folks are looking to purchase and haven't signed up to the forum, the listings here aren't hidden from anyone. You can lurk and browse all you like. Posting or messaging a seller will require signing up to the forum with an email. It's good to note that belonging to the forum here is seperate from receiving the daily emails from the main Ceramic Arts Network website that we're hosted by. I think you have to opt into those seperately. We ask for the email signup to the forum just so we can control spam posting.
  25. The clay is Laguna B-Mix and the glaze is Laguna Colonial White.
  26. Thanks for replying! I'm using a commercial glaze. I called the company but they haven't had any other complaints about the two glaze batch numbers I've used most recently. I'm not seeing any visible flaws on the bisqueware. I'm vacuuming the lid, shelves and posts too; it's happening on every piece, no matter where it's been in the kiln; the kiln jacket seems to be in great shape, still fitting snug. Sieving is the only thing I haven't tried yet, so I'll definitely do that. Here's a photo... as you can see, my pottery is starting to look like cookies and cream ice cream, coincidentally, it's my favorite.
  27. +1 for photo requests. Also, which clay body are you using, and glaze recipe, if you can. Did the problem start with a new batch of clay or any glaze ingredients?
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