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  2. I agree. Spiders love burners. If that doesn't work, those little pilots are cheap and easy to replace.
  3. As crazed as it is, by the time you add enough silica and kaolin to solve the crazing there's a good chance it will affect the melt. It may be easier to mix your own white glaze that you know works.
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  5. Very crazed, you will need to adjust the glaze fit some way. Normal for gloss when ya don’t know what is in it you can try to add 1.25:1 silica to clay until it stops crazing. so in parts 1.25 silica : 1 clay 2.5 silica : 2 clay and so on ....
  6. Clean out left side pilot orifice, it’s very tiny. Next time If you have to test simply use your manual light and tape it down trick. That way you only need to unscrew each thermo couple and screw it into the other valve. (No valve moving or piping moving) The picture you originally sent looked yellow and flashed anyway so it seems likely a dirty pilot orifice. Take that side assembly off and clean it out thoroughly there is probably a spider web in there. Don’t forget the orifice is at the end of the tube, clear it with something soft and blow backwards through it, also make sure to clean everything as often spiders will build a web in the assembly itself just after the orifice. See below, everything comes apart and can usually be cleaned in a few minutes.
  7. As if using Stoner as a name for your business isn't recommendation enough. https://www.stonermolding.com/
  8. Update: Swapping thermcouples sounds simple but they have different lead lengths, so the TC from the left side would not work on the right side. Leaving the TC's in place and just swapping them at the valves would require swapping the pilot system gas plumbing at the valves as well.... with already formed tubing cut to length, that would be a lot of work. So we got a new thermocouple, and got that installed (see my other thread on removing the old TC). Started up the left-side pilot system and it was immediately obvious that the pilot flame on the TC was crap. Adjusting the needle valve on the gas TC pilot gas supply offered no improvement. Still had to tape the red button down to keep the pilot burning, but gas was flowing through the valve, so we started the pilot system on the left side (much better pilot flame on that side), and then lit all six main burners to "candle" the kiln for a bit to try to dry things out. Everything was looking good, except for the crappy pilot flame on the left-side TC, but the kiln was running, so we started the firing. We check on it every 15 minutes, and on one of those checks after about two hours, we found the kiln had died. We tried to re-light it, but gas would not flow through the first BASO valve anymore. Wendy took apart the gas supply to the left side TC pilot flame, blew everything out with compressed air to clean it all up, put it back together, but no joy -- the pilot flame was still all yellow, no blue.... So either there is some sort of problem with that pilot "burner" still, or the problem is within the BASO valve -- not supplying the right gas pressure or something. We are still having to tape the red button down to keep the pilot flame burning. Our next step is to get a tech from our gas supplier out to take a look to see if they have any insight (a delivery truck driver from the company was filling a propane tank at our house when we tried firing the kiln last week, and he offered some helpful suggestions then). The kiln is still loaded with "unfired" wares (it only reached about 700F before quitting -- we fire to Cone 10).
  9. I finally figured this out. I pulled and pulled, and not only the thermocouple but the socket into which it is inserted. The socket was press-fit into a hole in the angle-iron mount. It has knurled (ribbed) section that was the press-fit, the other end is internally threaded and has wrench flats. Initially I had thought those wrench flats were a "nut" that was securing the thermocouple in place, and had tried valiantly to unscrew it -- before I figured out that this thermocouple was this snap-in style. It turns out that my wrenching had deformed the socket fitting enough that it was no longer round, so the thermcouple wouldn't come out. I squeezed the socket fitting in a vice to try to get it back to round, go the thermocouple out, made some more adjustments to the shape of the socket fitting so that a new thermocouple could be inserted. Then I devised a screw-press to press the socket fitting back into place (although now it is a bit loose....). Anyway, this part of my problem appears to be solved.
  10. Okay, I finally got the image uploaded. I had to make it really small, sorry. This picture is of ~2 inches x 1 inch of the sidewall inside one of my white and green mugs. The white seems to be the only glaze on this mug that crazed
  11. I like them. Audio is nicer also and of course no PJ’s a plus. Kudos to mentioning the compression out to in. You are probably only the third person I know to mention it and it has saved countless newbies from the unexplained crack. Food preparation is a bit of science also. This video has made me hungry, go figure. someone I watched who was a throw to the stick person actually hinged the last two inches of his stick so when done he could flip it horizontally out of the way. Seemed like an easy good idea.
  12. Hi! I'm quite new to this forum and I'd like to ask your opinion. We had a glaze in the workshop which looks super awesome and I have no idea what it could be. I was thinking some of you might have an idea what components are used here. Or maybe you've already seen something like this before. Its dominant colour is that peach-green but the thicker parts turn purple. (these were all cone 6) https://i.ibb.co/4sdTZdG/Photo-24-04-2019-14-38-46.jpg https://i.ibb.co/7gwbfkg/Photo-24-04-2019-14-38-52.jpg https://i.ibb.co/G5KSnNN/Photo-24-04-2019-14-54-13.jpg
  13. ( oils can clog the pores of the plaster making the mold less effective,) this can happen unless you use a non oil based release https://www.axner.com/pure-lube.aspx
  14. Thanks all for the adivice! I think I may be demolding too early, it seems like the problem is the plaster not setting well or not fully set. Somewhere I read that I should demold when the mold is warm, but perhaps that’s wrong, has anyone else done that? Could also be too much soap, thats a good thought. I have been avoiding oil-based mold release agents on the advice that the oils can clog the pores of the plaster making the mold less effective, but maybe it’s time to give those a try.
  15. If the pot is porous it will take in moisture which will cause and exacerbate crazing over time. @Brandon Franks, try email yourself the photo in a smaller size then post that image, file should be smaller.
  16. Would the fact that there is a wide firing range with that clay have something to do with the glaze not fitting at the temp you are firing?? Just wondering. Roberta
  17. Definitely will try that if I can't get the issue solved.
  18. I Keep trying to, but am having trouble uploading a file. If you want, I could maybe email you a photo of the crazing.
  19. I actually dip but use multiple layers. However, I see most the crazing on the inside. I was actually looking to switch up my clay body, do you have any suggestions that work good with layering glaze. Sorry if I am asking a lot, I have never felt with commercial glazes before and it is quite annoying. I am just going to stick to making my own in the future. I am trying to post a picture but keep getting told the size is too big...
  20. You can call mnclay and ask what clay bodies are compatible with the glazes you like and then switch to that clay.
  21. I think it's the same, I make kimchi, sauerkraut and kombucha and they don't need to be air tight, they just need to be covered. I mean some people are really afraid of a bad ferment, but ive never had a problem smelling or seeing if something was off! I think airlocks are just in the interest of extra safety. Once lactobacillus takes hold in a lactobacillus ferment (kombucha, kimchi, sauerkraut, etc) or aspergillus in an aspergillus ferment (sake, tempeh, miso, etc), it's really hard for any baddies to get a hold. But for miso, a weight is placed on top of the beans to keep them under the liquid (tamari), and this keeps them from being a host for fungi. So the byproduct of the digested beans kind of acts like the airlock. Same with kimchi, although it never lasts long enough in my house to grow anything but delicious!
  22. That makes it much more difficult to try and fix. If the craze lines are spaced far apart there is a slim chance you could correct the crazing with some added silica. Could you post a picture of the crazing? If you do want to try the silica fix it's going to take some testing by weighing out glaze then adding a small percentage of silica, dipping a test tile and repeating with increasing amounts of silica. Might be easier to try a different claybody you could try instead. Regarding that Standard 101 Buff clay, if the absorption has a posted figure of 0.75% at cone 9 then it might be high enough to be an issue for mugs, vases etc at cone 6. How to run an absorption test here. It's always a good idea to do your own absorption tests rather than relying on what the manufacturer posts.
  23. With brushing commercial glazes, you're pretty much stuck. You can't get the recipe. You can either accept the crazing or try a different clay body. Crazing isn't necessarily a deal breaker, though, if the clay body is vitrified. Layering glazes complicates it even more. It's nearly impossible to get layered glazes to work perfectly, because two glazes that don't craze on their own may craze when layered.
  24. Welcome to the forum Tess! Maybe yes, maybe no, try it and see what happens with your claybody. Fire slowly until you get past bisque temperatures then continue as a glaze firing.
  25. Ok must be a different process. My daughter in law makes fermented vegies , sauerkraut amd a femented drink and needs/uses jars with airlocks to keep out unwanted gremlins but a positive. Pressure may do same. I guess the water airlock ones burb on their own...
  26. This is actually the first time I am using store bought glazes. I usually just make my own, but I love some of the combinations these glazes have when layered. All of them are from Continental Clay and Minnesota Clay. Sadly, I am unable to obtain the glaze recipes at this time, but I can give you my clay and its specifications. I use a Standard 101 Buff Clay C/02-9 Cone 02 Shrinkage 9.0% Absorption 4.5% Cone 9 Shrinkage 12.0% Absorption 0.75% Again, I fire to ^6 on the slow setting. Thanks for all the replies, I have never had experience with commercial or crazing glaze, so this is very helpful, Brandon (I will provide a list and link to the glazes, if that helps anyone) Twighlight Blue* https://www.continentalclay.com/detail.php?cat_id=425&sub_categoryID=&PID=1399 Matalic Green Gloss White* https://www.mnclay.com/AddToCart2.aspx?ProductGroup=HG7 BT12- Black NG12- Floting B Ng10- Espresso Buttercream* https://www.continentalclay.com/detail.php?cat_id=425&sub_categoryID=&PID=1399 *- all that I am able to tell have crazed
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