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  2. this sounds like one of the strange chinese kilns that have hit the market recently. it is obvious that the person writing the description has english as a second language and does not understand what kilns are all about. i hope you have not been cheated in buying this thing. read the description of the "temperature controller" especially the last sentence.
  3. Today
  4. Yes 90 minutes is likely way too fast and for bisque the quickest I have seen is probably 12 hours. Burning things out of clay also takes time. Google common bisque schedules and you should find a nice smooth slowish ramp that you can use. Finally the Efco requires a separate control so the question is do you have the optional control? pictures below
  5. Hello! I’ve just pulled my big handbuilt bowl from the bisque fire & discovered a few small cracks I want to repair before I glaze it (cone 6). The clay body is white & I’ve purchased some of Amaco’s Bisque Fix and I can’t find instructions for using it. I think I get the basics (apply with a rubber bib & when dry, sand as much of the excess off as possible)’ but I don’t see anywhere if I need to bisque it again (cone 05) after application or if I can go straight to the midfire glaze firing. The reviews I’ve read online aren’t clear, but at least one user bisqued the piece a second time... I’d like to avoid that extra step/time if possible. Anyone use it & have advice for a newbie?
  6. Yesterday
  7. That's the one then! Keep a log of each firing. Dance the damper; airflow, gas dance till you're happy! I miss my gas kiln.
  8. Even a 6 cu/ft kiln should get up to cone 018 in just a few hours. The problem is that a kiln that size will take longer to cool than a smaller kiln. Did that 20 hours include the cooling segment? Putting that segment in the program isn't necessary. If it's cooling at 9999, that's full speed, cooling at its natural speed. Just take it up to peak temp and let it shut off. Speed up your firing speed. 110F/hr is pretty slow. You can go as fast as your pots will allow without cracking. You also don't need to wait for it to get all the way down to 80F. Open it up at 200. That last 120 degrees could take several hours.
  9. If you've already fired the piece to 1280, it's likely already vitrified, and you'll have a really hard tome getting anything to stick to it. Typically we bisque to cone 06-04 so the piece is still porous for applying the glaze.
  10. I think the the best method is not to get wax where you do not want it. If its dripping its to thin. I use a sponge and wring out any excess to control really is key. The way you hold pots so drips fall aways is a good habit if your are a slob with drips. One hand for wax one hand for wares is also a key point. You learn a lot but doing huge volumes of wares and how to keep mistakes from happening in the 1st place Now if you do get some on a spot there are a few tricks. 1st is keep a wet (water) sponge next too yoiu so you can wipe it up immediacy or sooner before it drys-this is about 90% effective second is to sand the spot with sandpaper or even use a dremil tool to grind a bit of bisque off third you can rub the spot with another broken picece of same clay body thats bisqued to get the particles teh same so glaze sticks well-this is a tricky deal as to must dust makes it crawl more. 4th burn it off with a hand torch but you need to know not to hold it there to long as that will crack the ware tso this my friens is a learned skill but works really well -not to much heat and spread it out over an larger area. I work with porcelain which is not forgiving like stonewares. I like to do a combo of some of the above items . I gave up rebisquing 40 years ago as a waste of everything as these tecniques work just as well.
  11. Going to switch it out to a 30 right now, and if i get the 818, i’ll Switch it to a 40. Thanks guys, so much!
  12. It may fail to trip and you could have an issue.
  13. Yikes, Neil. didn’t realize I could have too large of a breaker. even though it’s not within code, can I have a serious issue if I use the 50amp?
  14. I tried larger flame (weed killer) a couple of times before, but even with careful preheating of the whole piece, it always fractured. I will try my mini torch on small wax spots again. Thank you.
  15. The Skutt 181 needs a 30 amp breaker. A 50 amp breaker would not be within code, which says the breaker should be 25% greater than the draw of the kiln, but not more than 50% greater. If I remember correctly the 181 only pulls 22-24 amps, so at 150% a 40 amp breaker would be the largest. The KM818 pulls 27.8 amps, so at 25% greater you'd need a 40 amp breaker. At 50% greater, that gets you to 42 amps, which technically allows for the use of a 50 amp breaker, but I'd stick with the 40 for that, too.
  16. I'm currently using a solder pencil. It's butane and puts out a really small bright flame. The soot doesn't seem to be a problem to glaze over. You do have to be careful or you'll pop a piece out of the bisque. I wax a lot, somewhere around a pint per kiln load. Drops where they shouldn't be are inevitable.
  17. 90 minutes is too fast! You're lucky you didn't blow things up. Does it have a switch that can control the power (lo, med, hi)?
  18. L&L only recommends putting holes in the lid if needed. Try it without first. You can always add them.
  19. Have had luck burning off wax spots (on bisque) with map gas torch - quick, easy.
  20. I started out with one small hole in the bottom - where the box fits up - and a small hole in the lid; from there, added a second small hole in the bottom, now it pulls well. How leaky is the kiln, that's a variable, also how hard your fan pulls against the kiln is another key variable, and related, how much push required to move the kiln+ambient mix out the hose, and any pull required to make up the air to the space. imo, make up air should flow freely to the space.
  21. Have you fired it to check out how much gap you have? I had a old Paragon that I didn't drill the hole in the top because it had a leaky lid. I replaced the old Paragon with a kiln from a estate sale that was purchased in 1968 but only fired once. I drilled a hole in the lid even though it was old model I knew it would have a tight lid. Denice
  22. Yes Babs there is a regulator on the pressure gauge which will effectively control both burners, I have a chart which relates psi to btu for these particular burners.
  23. Aside from candling with a reduced burner number I used to control the gas flow at ths psi gauge. The first one out of the gas bottle is a regulator to govern with ref. to the line capacity as I recall.
  24. I love firing kilns but will never fully trust them.
  25. Thank you that is very useful information. My first burn certainly showed that it really does need holding back, went off like a rocket.
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