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  2. Hi Hi. thanks for this tip- I am wanting to find a source of the cotton linter that you are referring to. Can someone help me please. Many thanks!
  3. Did you say you were planning a dive trip to Bali?  I don't dive any more, but my long time fishing buddy just got back from there.  He also recently sold the most beautiful boat on the west coast, so I am without a ride.  Check one of the picture he sent from Bali and guess what it is.

    P3190089 (2)_resized.JPG

  4. Well, that article addresses pretty much every question I have had - bookmarking it! Thanks again, Mark!
  5. Since it is already mixed up would you advise diluting with water (or perhaps even a bit of the slip mixture) and adding it that way? I will continue to try to digest the super-dense digital fire article (thanks for posting) and do some more research on Darvan. So many variables to keep in mind.
  6. I've heard Rams Head called duck bill, which may be a closer description
  7. Darvan can help read this 1st https://digitalfire.com/4sight/education/understanding_the_deflocculation_process_in_slip_casting_213.html
  8. Today
  9. Thanks, Mark. I will continue to fiddle with it - I just got worried when A. Martin said it wouldn't work at all. I might do as you suggest and mix another batch with grolleg and then combine a bit of each to see what that looks like. I mixed 14 gallons because I dislike doing it and so just try to do as much as I can at once. It's always a learning experience, which is one of the reasons I keep doing it! The only real difficulty is the settling - it is almost instantaneous and it seems like the bottom of the cast piece is always heavier than the higher sides. Would adding Darvan help with the suspension? I appreciate your thoughtful response.
  10. In my College Ceramics book, they also referred to Spiral Wedging as " Chrysanthemum " wedging. (Yes I had to look up how to spell that, despite the fact I read that children's book, to my daughter hundreds of times...) I would say you are probably right Pres. The steps in Cone and Spiral wedging are the same. You just don't really get the large disc, with smaller amounts of clay. At the very least, both end the same way. With Spiral wedging, it becomes a cone, with the finishing passes. So, it's probably just a matter of semantics. I will also note, that when I explain why "Ram's Head" is called that, most of my students don't really see the "Ram" Who would expect Art students to have some imagination?...
  11. You can see the differeance at Digital fire.com-somewaht minor I just looked them up You will notice minor changes but if your test pieces work I would jusat use the material-they are both fine kaolins The big story is ceramics is to pay attention-it happens to us all sooner or later. I just toosed out 1/3 of a kiln load with a glaze mistake-the pots and the glaze and started over. In ceramics all the details matter-so always double check everything I would avoid the soda ash as it can damage the plaster over time.You could also make another batch with the grolleg and dilute your other batch.I doubt you will notice much difference with the two batches. Mixing up two kinds of kaolins is no big deal really How many gallons is your batch size?? work off a materials list next time you go to the store-hand them a list with it written out. Instead of removing water add a little more material to batch to thicken Getting the specific gravity right and using dry molds is the most important part. Darvan is your best choice over soda ash
  12. Hello! I have run into a problem making casting slip. I have been using a tried and true recipe from an instructor several years ago for a casting slip that calls for grolleg kaolin. I mixed up a new batch and did not realize that when I said grolleg, the guy at the sales counter heard EPK. I thought when I saw the bag that perhaps it was from a different supplier so added it. Realizing that it was not at all the same in color and substance, I did some quick research and saw that it is essentially the same but will shrink a little more than the grolleg. Okay, cool. I can deal with that as I am experimenting with slip casting anyway, so I added it as I was in the middle of it all and did not want to put it all away again. But then when I got home I looked in the Andrew Martin book he said it will not work at all because it holds on to the water and will cause the casting to have a thin wall and be brittle. So now: do I toss my batch and spend another $100 on supplies or would you attempt some sort of save? I did cast one small plate as a test and I didn't notice any extra brittleness, though it did take longer to cast. It will be going through bisque fire in the next day or so, which might help me decide. The only other thing that I noticed is that it immediately starts to settle and turn into oobleck on the bottom of the bucket. The specific gravity is 1.6, which is a lot lower than normal. I was trying to decide whether to let it evaporate for a while and then add some Darvan or SS (though I made it with a bit of soda ash which I have heard doesn't play well with Darvan). Or maybe I just start over and learn to look more carefully at what they are loading in my car. Thanks in advance for any advice or knowledge you can impart.
  13. As I mentioned in the Events section, I have a big show coming up soon. Lots of good stuff coming out of the kilns now.
  14. I had always thought that cone wedging was the same as spiral, just occurred with smaller amounts of clay. Semantics I guess. best, Pres
  15. @neilestrick What type of clay body is that? Beyond the two types Neil listed (Ram's Head and Spiral), there is another type, Cone wedging. Like Ram's Head, it works better for smaller amounts. I usually start with Ram's Head, and then go to Cone.
  16. Hi Mehmet. Welcome. Bad English? Not at all. You should hear some of the people from here in Kentucky, USA! They were born here and my wife still can't understand them! She says they talk like they have a mouth full of marbles. I started a kiln build in October 2018 and am almost done. I have posted my progress in this thread - many of the questions asked me by the members here while I was building would be appropriate to ask yourself and answer here to give everyone a better idea how to help. We will definitely need more info and details first. 1 cubic meter - check gas - check downdraft - check What else? What kind of kiln material are you working with/have access to? Low pressure gas or high pressure bottled propane? Inside a building or outside? Personal or commercial? What size kiln shelves are accessible to you - because you will need to build around them (You taught me well Mark C!). Looking forward to more info from you and watching your progress if you do decide to build rather than buy? (Why not just buy a kiln instead of building one? My answer was a mixture of financial and a DIY personality.) Pat
  17. 1,000C isn't hot enough for ceramics. Bisque needs to be fired to ^06 - ^04, which, generally speaking, is around 1,000 to 1,060C. As I said before, maximum rated temp of kiln will only be reached with brand new elements and everything else in perfect harmony. Check the internal size, it's not tall enough for a mug.
  18. Just a quick update...leaving the lid completely open for the first couple hours (as the manual suggests!) solved the problem. The manual also says to make sure surrounding areas are covered with asbestos. I'm gonna ignore that suggestion.
  19. Wow...sorry you have to go through with this. I wish you the best in whatever direction you elect to go.
  20. Hello! I am new here and looking for a bit of help with my wheel please. It's a Shimpo RK3E VL Whisper and has developed a rather annoying loud humming noise when at my favourite slow wheel speed for throwing. All other speeds are quiet, it only makes it at that particular speed. I'm based in the UK and we don't have a Shimpo centre here. My wheel was bought on ebay! Any advice on what might be wrong and if there is anything I can do to fix it myself would be most appreciated. Thanks in advance for taking the time to read and reply. Kindest regards, Elisabeth
  21. Yesterday
  22. Yes on what Min says-get the glaze the way you want it (thick or thin) then add a small amout of made up snot(magma)You will see whay I call it snot soon enough It all depeends on what size glaze buctet you are using as to how much to use-I often have 25 gallon or 10 gallons and also 5 gallons as well as well as 1/2 gallon buckets. The thing is this stuff is powerful-Use just a little . maybe a teaspoon in 5 gallons-the other variable is how much settling YOUR glaze Has? so there are no hard and fast rules .Floating rocks take more than lighter materials. Glad you learned not everything on the web is right like in stock items. If you can add the snot into a small amout of hot water it will mix very easy. Cold bucket of glaze require lots of power mixing.
  23. no doubt, but talking with her might help. Maybe there's a twist to all of this though. i dunno, maybe not, but talking might clear the air.
  24. I do some large pieces, some fully thrown, some with wheel thrown and slab elements combined. Check my albums. Combining forms takes considerably less energy, but design becomes even more important as proportion, texture, and details become more important when combining in that manner. best, Pres
  25. Can add it either way, if you add it to the dry materials then just weigh it out and mix it into the dry ingredients, add some copper carb as a preservative, amounts are in that link I posted above. I prefer to get the specific gravity set first then add a bit of magma goo / jelly to it then whiz it up with an immersion blender. If it settles just add a bit more.
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