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  3. The top two switches appear to be the elements that heat up the extension ring. Is there a separate plug on the top that plugs into the electrical box on the main kiln body?
  4. Hi Forum, I am looking for pointers to good systems for processing dug clay. The clay I have looks good but to prepare any reasonable quantity takes time and effort. So before I move to preparing larger quantities I'd like to see how people do it. It will be a low-tech approach. I have read that people use tanks containing water and raw, unwashed clay which is soaked and agitated to put the clay in suspension. This clay bearing water is then run through a system of troughs and settlement pools. I am hoping that there are some books/photos/diagrams/detailed descriptions showing what an array of of this type might look like. How and where is organic material filtered out? If there is any way of getting gravity to help move the materials that would be good. Ways of agitating the clay which don't consume all your energy? I have heard it said that it is better to weather and dry the clay and then crush the clay before rehydrating. But I have no idea why. And drying and crushing takes time and energy. Any cheap mechanical aids? I expect to be processing about a tonne of raw clay in one pass. Thanks in advance Andy K
  5. thanks for replies @oldlady yes, we use metric system, the dimentions on the drawings are in cm. @terrim8 Unfortunately I have not read that book, but I will buy it now. It is a bit late for fundamental changes because I'm going to continue my work on Monday. My main source of knowledge was the reading of Ian Gregory "Kiln building", but it is not too much detailed.unfrotunatelly @Rae Reich My arch is going to follow regular circle (180 degrees). What kind of bracing, which you mention, would be needed? Should I rather turn again into more tall and narrow catenary curve? I do not plan to cut the bricks into wedges, just fill the upper gaps with clay in regular distances. Will it work?
  6. If it is a Skutt kiln, they have great tutorials on their website. You also have to have the correct wiring for your kiln. Hopefully you checked with your school maintanence people before getting the kiln. If not, the voltage amp info should be listed on the outside of the kiln. Are there other art teachers in the area that might be able to help you? good luck
  7. Hi Dianen - Neophyte here myself - been throwing less than a year and have only posted once before! Although the focus has been on equipment, I wonder how much you're paying attention to your own physical health and constraints. As we get - ahem - older, we tend to lose flexibility and muscle strength. Doing close work and sitting for long periods of time in restricted positions also tends to do its damage by shortening muscles and reducing range of motion. It's highly captivating and we often find ourselves having sitting in a particular position for an hour or more. I sometimes find myself bent over a wheel for 45 minutes or more and then having trouble standing up straight! I'm not a physician but I have my own share of upper back and neck problems so try to stay aware of what might be causing them. Getting up from your work every half hour or so and doing some stretching exercises is not a bad idea. I did a quick search and there's even a video devoted to stretching exercises for artists that focuses on hands, arms, and neck: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DEf5AGef4yI There are others out there even by this particular physician. We all know the benefits of exercise, ie stretching and load bearing (lifting weights). Good equipment - the ones we buy and the ones we're born with - need some good care and attention. Just some thoughts from an aspiring and aging potter... - Jeff
  8. aye, that th' trade off - I'd rather have the cast covers
  9. LT: there are 100 plus references to journals, thesis, books, and other resources on the effects of temp on clay bodies. https://books.google.com/books?id=pQpCDCPqlS4C&pg=PA58&lpg=PA58&dq=W.H.+Sutton;+factors+influencing+the+strength+of+clay+bodies&source=bl&ots=AfkxuypAxo&sig=ACfU3U2W_Zh8NTluxpwvcnIN4zVOWBV3vw&hl=en&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwjB-_rwj7jiAhUPnq0KHaUpC_YQ6AEwAXoECAQQAQ#v=onepage&q=W.H. Sutton%3B factors influencing the strength of clay bodies&f=false you need to hire a research assistant: I am a little busy. as I have told you in PM before- W.G. Lawrence " Ceramic Science for the Potter." F.H. Norton " Fine Ceramics, Technology and Application". And the book referenced above are the best encapsulated information resources. For the record: I have journal references lying all over the place in my various threads. Feel free to go find them. Long past tired of having post proof every time I make technical posts. Tom
  10. Yes indeed! You'll only make the mistake of touching them once though I just use the end of a post or anything that's handy to swing them aside.
  11. (Sorry Bill, I broke my two cup rule. Never answer questions until I finish the second cup.) if that coffee where stronger (fresh ground beans) only one cup would be nessacary.
  12. In 1979, I paid $1000 for a catenary 12 cu ft hardbrick kiln and assorted shelves and glazes. 'Course, it had to be mapped, disassembled, hauled across town in an ancient pickup (stop loading when tires distort), bricks cleaned and reassembled. Oh, we were an energetic crew of potters and friends!
  13. Yesterday
  14. you probably already have this book but just in case.....https://www.amazon.com/Kiln-Book-Frederick-L-Olsen/dp/0812221869 prob lots of answers in there I used to have a gas burner ca ternary arch brick kiln and i had to reduce the size of the flue opening - a friend helped me - I probably should have read the book!
  15. congratulations on summoning up the courage to get started! i assume that the numbers are measurements, do you use metric in Poland?
  16. Interesting layout. A catenary arch will hold itself up, other arches need bracing but will be a bit roomier in the curve.
  17. ”If anyone ran measured effects of heat work, it would be Orton Sr. He wrote several abstracts for American Ceramic Society, I will nose around and see what I can find. The other source would be Ougland and Brindley from the British Ceramic Society: "Effects of a High Temperature on Kaolinite". Tom, please post the complete citation information (author name, article title, journal official name, volume, issue, page, and publication date). LT
  18. I read the emailed version of this project. Sounds like it will be as perfect as you can make it! Heated closets!!!
  19. I'd vote for this query to be a new Qotw -it has a beat, you can dance to it.
  20. Both my Cone Art and Pottery Supply House (Euclids) kilns use peephole covers not plugs. They swing open or closed, don't stick out or get lost since they're attached to the kiln jacket. I prefer the stainless ones on the Cone Art Kiln, PSH kiln ones are stoneware. (would be easy to make some) I do like having them to check cone packs once in a while.
  21. I gave up on trying to look in to see the cones, but I think it helps to remove them to cool that last 200 degrees, other than that I have no use for them since I use a vent. I have a solid one that came with the kiln, only sticks out 1 inch or so, they could all be like that as far as I'm concerned.
  22. So obviously we need peep holes from time to time, but why are there so many, and when I'm doing brick repair, can I just get rid of some of them. I leave my top peep open, I like to see a cone drop. But the rest are kind of a waste, and when I break one with my shin, I'm wondering A. Why don't I be alittle more careful B. Why can't I plug that hole with something that doesn't protrude into the path of a shin, thigh, hip. Please avail me of thy kiln wisdom.
  23. Bill Van Gilder talked about this in one of his videos, said the foot ring acts as a fulcrum, pulls the rim down and the base up. He makes the base slightly concave to compensate.
  24. Maybe, just never have seen a timer speed up. Late add: the timer is downstream of the sitter so if there was time still left on it, looks like the sitter shut it off.
  25. I still love my drycleaner bags, I can't remember the last time I actually drycleaned anything, but it didn't keep me from stopping in one and asking if they had any discards. I'm still using them, and that was 5-7 years ago, with a bag of them still in storage lol. They are light, they drape well, I double, sometimes triple them up to control drying.....and sticking with the subject, my workbench is clear, I'm ready to start again, pitchers are the need for this week
  26. Thank you Bob...why do you think it is the kiln sitter? It has never tripped, unless I have removed the cone from the brackets. That’s why I was thinking it was the limit timer. I was hoping that setting it on 12 would eliminate the issue (previously, I had set it per Cress’ recommendation at about 1hr longer than the expected firing time-between 6-8 hours). Prior to setting it to 12, the kiln had always shut off after 2-3 hours. To me, it seems as if the kiln is firing for slightly less than half of what the limit timer is set for....
  27. Sounds like your sitter needs adjustment, cleaning and checking. All the power comes into the sitter so if it trips, everything turns off. There are several you tube videos out there that may be helpful, search kiln sitter if you are a DIY er. My guess is the slightest bend of your cone shuts it off prematurely. Maybe a bent rod, but service just the same. I believe your wiring diagram below and a screenshot of the manual. Both are available on the Cress site.
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